This Chevys Could Use A Tuneup

The crowd spilled out into the hall last weekend at River Park Square, patiently waiting for names to be called. It was going to be a 45-minute wait for a table.

It’s been like this ever since Chevys Fresh Mex opened in October. The place is hot, hot, hot.

Unfortunately, the food’s not.

In several visits over the past few months, that’s been the one constant: lukewarm food.

Last Saturday, the place was jammed, so two of us grabbed stools at the bar.

The cantina — and the expansive, high-ceilinged dining room — are all decked out in kitschy clutter: neon signs, stuff hanging from the ceiling and a gas fire flickering in what looks like the remants of an old car. Add lots of people and you’ve got a space with a lively energy.

Add the almost constant drone of a loudspeaker calling out names and you’ve got the feel of a Greyhound bus terminal. That’s the way the fella sitting next to me at the bar put it when he asked a server to please turn the volume down on that speaker. Instead, they turned the music up and conversation became a challenge.

As far as the menu goes, I appreciate that in no way does Chevys try to pass itself off as authentic. Chevys is pure Mexi-Cal, with trendy wraps (barbecued chicken and mashed potatoes), fajitas and wood-grilled fish joining the usual lineup of tacos, enchiladas, tamales and chilis rellenos.

All arrive at your table on an oversized platter, guaranteeing that nobody will walk out of the restaurant hungry. Maybe just less than satisfied.

In accordance with Chevys’ “Fresh Mex Pledge,” after you finally get your table, a basket of hot chips will greet you. These are feather-light and crispy. The accompanying salsa is spiked with roasted peppers, onions and cilantro. It’s pretty tame. When I asked if they had hotter stuff, one of the extremely efficient support servers brought what appeared to be more of the same.

I’ve also tried the highly touted guacamole on a couple of occasions. They make it several times a day with fresh avocados, and will produce a pit to prove it. It’s a tiny portion for $5 and could use a little zing. (I goosed it with the lime garnishing my outstanding pineapple margarita.)

Guacamole also comes on the side with the fajitas, which are described as sizzling hot. Well, hardly.

You know how most Mexican joints warn about hot plates? I’ve not heard such cautions at Chevys. Barely seasoned fajitas have arrived little warmer than room temperature, and they cooled off even more while I waited for the tortillas.

Those flour tortillas, fresh off this tortilla-making gadget called El Machino, are the best thing I’ve had at Chevys. Soft and chewy, they are ideal for scooping up some of the fine pinto beans.

On other occasions, I’ve been served lukewarm (and grease-sodden) chili rellenos, fish tacos where the unidentified seafood was cold, and a tuna steak that was way overcooked and dry. Is the kitchen still adjusting to new equipment?

Last Saturday, I tried the mesquite-grilled fish tacos and experienced the same problem. Also, the half-melted cheese on the pintos had congealed.

I might have mentioned it to the bartender who was serving us, but he never checked back to see how we were doing. (I also had to ask for a glass of water and, later, the check.)

This was a blip, though, as the other servers I’ve encountered have been pleasant and efficient. The busing crew is especially on the ball, keeping those chips coming and delivering the meals to the table.

It sure seems like Chevys has the ingredients for a successful restaurant. The California-based corporation, which was bought out last year by PepsiCo, has hundreds of franchises around the country. (PepsiCo owns another Mexican-type place that might ring a bell, as in “Yo Quiero Taco Bell.”)

I’ve read glowing reviews from restaurant critics in other cities singing the praises of the fresh seafood, the bright, true flavors of the food, the every-day-is-like-Cinco-de-Mayo-type atmosphere.

So what gives?

Each visit, the food seems to be getting worse instead of better.

Still, I guess that hardly matters when people are lining up just to get their name on the list for a 45-minute wait.

I’ll save you the trouble. It’s not worth it.

This sidebar appeared with the story:

Chevys Fresh Mex

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Signature dishes

Along with such standards as enchiladas, tacos and tamales, there’s a selection of items cooked over mesquite wood. That includes the eight varieties of fajitas and a daily fresh fish. The plato gordo gives you a taste of everything: grilled chicken, shrimp, baby back ribs and skirt steak.

Ordering tips

The combos at lunch are a steal at $6 for two items, $8 for three. You can also mix and match fajita ingredients, say, pairing the grilled portobello mushrooms with summer veggies for $12. Or, you can order sides of the two best things on the menu: the chewy-soft flour tortillas and the pinto beans. The margaritas are marvelous; the featured special is made with whole fruit. Have a couple of those and anything will taste good.

The tab, etc.

Prices range from $6 to $14, with most items around $8. Kids’ meals are $4, which includes a pop. They take all major credit cards. Smoking is allowed in the bar area. The restaurant is wheelchair accessible.

Serving

Lunch and dinner daily, open until 10 weeknights, 11 on Friday and Saturday. There is a full bar.