Downtown Restaurant Finally Heating Up

(From For the Record, May 13, 2000): Number wrong: The telephone number for the Steam Plant Grill restaurant in Spokane is 777-3900. The number was incomplete in Friday’s Weekend section.

When a new restaurant first opens, there are going to be bugs to work out. That’s why I wouldn’t dream of going to a restaurant in its first month of business.

But I did get a belly full of stories about The Steam Plant Grill’s initial shortcomings: diners getting the wrong orders (computer glitches); one person at a table being served while others waited; a customer at lunch being told they couldn’t get a Caesar salad because the produce hadn’t arrived yet.

It’s all added up to many missed opportunities to make a good first impression.

My early visits were disappointing, too.

One particularly bad trip involved a $10 order of fish and chips that was inedible. The fish tasted fishy and the halibut had a chewy texture. The batter was greasy. The chips were room temperature and the tasteless tartar was mostly mayo.

My tablemate’s burger came out with bacon when she had asked for cheese instead. (“I knew I should have written that down,” our waiter lamented.)

Lately, though, there seem to be some promising signs that the Steam Plant is coming around. Executive chef Harry Helbig — who had previously worked at Cavanaughs Inn at the Park — has developed a new, wide-ranging menu that includes everything from steaks to wraps, burgers to lamb chops.

A member of Helbig’s staff creates a weekly fresh sheet with ambitious fare that recently included gazpacho, alder-smoked salmon with a raspberry cream sauce, and fettuccine with fresh Penn Cove mussels.

Service during my past two meals has been pleasant, well-informed and timely. (Although I don’t quite understand why the hostess doesn’t pour water when she seats you. That simple gesture serves as a nice welcome.)

At a recent lunch, I enjoyed a coconut-curry salad — greens and sweet kernels of corn tossed with a mild curry dressing. Slices of Granny Smith apples and flakes of toasted coconut gave it a refreshing, exotic twist.

It can be ordered on its own, or with grilled chicken or a salmon fillet (both about $9). I tried the salmon, which was a fine complement to the curry flavor in the salad. But the fillet was served room temperature (which indicates the fish isn’t cooked to order). The roll served with my salad tasted dry and stale.

I also sampled one of the wraps. The Thai chicken with rice and peanut sauce suffered the fate of many a burrito as some of the sauce settled into one spot. So, the bites with the sauce were tasty. Those without were bland.

One of my big-eating buddies was delighted with his Jamaican jerk pork loin sandwich from the fresh sheet. The Caribbean spices used on the meat gave it some heat, while a tropical mango salsa provided a cooling counterpoint. The sauteed sweet peppers and onions loaded onto the focaccia might have been a bit much for two slices of bread to contain. It turned it into a fork-only sandwich.

There was no such problem picking up the hot shoestring fries on the side, though.

A follow-up dinner got off to a good start with an order of extra-crispy calamari served with a spicy chipotle aioli (mayo spiked with smoky jalapeno peppers). Anyone baffled by the notion of eating deep-fried squid might be see things differently if they tried these tender little rings. If calamari’s too adventurous, there are onion rings and nachos on the appetizer list as well.

I appreciated our server’s informed opinion when I asked her to suggest a steak. The menu includes several different cuts, each prepared differently.

The special sirloin with a Jack Daniels sauce sounded tempting, featuring a Jack-enhanced demiglace spiked with mushrooms and gorgonzola. But she steered me to the New York strip finished in a pink peppercorn sauce.

Too bad my steak was overcooked. It was medium well instead of medium rare, but I took a bite and it was too good to send back. The robust sauce had a intense, beefy flavor and a generous dose of whole peppercorns. Not for the faint of palate, this one.

It came with a side of super-creamy sour cream mashed potatoes (almost so creamy you couldn’t taste the spuds) and a mix of sauteed veggies.

I also sampled the clam linguine, a tasty bowl of pasta jazzed up with fresh basil, roma tomatoes, green onions and a lemony cream sauce. The sauce was light, so it didn’t overshawdow the taste of the shellfish. The presentation wasn’t all that it could be, though, with the dish looking like it had been sitting under the heating lamps getting slightly congealed.

Dinners are served a la carte, so tag on an extra $2.50 for a house salad or soup. It would be nice to have the option of ordering starter portions of some of the other, more creative salads such as the coconut curry.

Before we got around to dessert, our server warned that the Bailey’s mud pie had already sold out. It was prom night, if that explains anything.

However, I was impressed to see a pear flan on the list of housemade treats. The small wedge had a cookie-crumbly crust and a rich filling, but it was pretty skimpy on the fruit. I could only find a few paper-thin slices.

On the plus side, the post-dinner coffee was strong and freshly brewed.

Other pluses include the cool view (on the way to the restrooms) into the Steam Plant’s brewing operation. Half of the 10 Coeur d’Alene Brewing Company beers on tap are made on the premises (the others are made in CdA), with each rotating in weekly as a specially priced pour.

And then, there’s the space itself. This historic landmark — built in 1915 with 225-foot brick smokestacks designed by renowned architect Kirtland Cutter — heated much of downtown Spokane until 1986.

In a town with so many wonderful old (often neglected) landmarks, it’s exciting to see the Steam Plant forge a new identity. Inside, look up into that wide open space with all its mysterious mechanical parts and it’s really something to see. From the outside, the lighted smokestacks are just stunning at night.

The spot has a good feel, particularly when the bar downstairs gets lively. (You can order food in the lounge.) And check out the specialty cocktail offerings, where you’ll find one of the trendiest drinks around: The Caribbean cool mojito (pronounced moe-hee-toe) is rum, fresh lime and fresh mint. Perfect-O for summer sipping.

After a rather rocky start, it looks as if this Grill is finally picking up steam.

This sidebar appeared with the story:

Steam Plant Grill

**

What the ratings mean: **** Excellent, *** Great, ** Good, * Fair

The tab, etc.

The same menu is served throughout the day, with prices ranging from $6.25 for a burger and fries to $17 for lamb chops. Bottles on the well-chosen wine list start at $15 for a California shiraz (aka syrah, a red Rhone varietal that’s good with food) to $115 for a California cabernet from Grgich Hills. Most selections are in the $25 to $30 range. They take Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Discover and personal checks.

Serving

Lunch and dinner daily from 11 a.m. The restaurant and lounge are nonsmoking and the building is wheelchair accessible. Reservations suggested for dinner on weekends.

Under $8 is a review of inexpensive restaurants in the Inland Northwest. Other regular restaurant features include: Behind the Menu, a column with notes and news; Dining Out, reviews of upscale restaurants; and Checking Back, a look at previously reviewed restaurants.