Napa Valley May Be Ripe For Competitio

I took a trip to Napa Valley during grape harvest this fall and came away with this overriding impression: Man alive, those are some spendy wines being produced in this country’s most famous grape-growing region.

Paying $50 for cabernet is nothing. And that’s if the wineries even have it in stock.

At the celebrated Caymus on the Silverado Trail, the coveted ‘97s were history. “You might be able to find some in Peoria,” the smug tasting-room attendant barked at me.

Actually, I found a bottle at Super 1 after I got home and broke my rule about not paying more than $20 for a bottle. It was $35. (But I saw the same thing selling for $175 on a wine list at a restaurant in San Francisco, so figured I was getting a bargain.)

As much as I enjoyed California’s fantastic wine country especially the spectacular restaurants it gave me a new appreciation for what’s going on in Washington. And in our own back yard in particular.

Wineries here still have something to prove, so they work harder. And, if you listen to one former California winemaker, we have better quality fruit here.

“I’ve been continuously impressed with the great fruit we get here,” said Kristina van Loben Sels, who just finished her second harvest at Arbor Crest. (Before that she worked on the ultra-premium releases at the much-acclaimed Ferrari-Carano.)

Look for her first releases the ‘99 chardonnay, pinot gris and sauvignon blanc in March.

Mountain Dome makers of the best bubbly in Washington is making a big splash with its first release of a still wine. It’s an absolutely gorgeous pinot noir from the Crystal Pheasant vineyard near the Columbia Gorge.

The elegant “Pleasant Prairie” pinot ranks right up there with the best releases from Oregon, a state famous for growing that Burgundian varietal. And that includes Domaine Drouhin and the tiny, obscure Thomas, two of my favorites.

The Pleasant Prairie pinot noir has a lot of depth, layers of great fruit backed up by some subtle tannins. And, it’s practically a collector’s item.

Because the vineyard is much cooler than the Columbia Valley, the fruit doesn’t always get ripe enough to produce a pinot. (Wines for sparkling wines are harvested sooner.) But 1998 was an exceptional year, and this pinot was born. There will be no ‘99s or 2000 vintage of it, so enjoy it now.

It sells for around $20.

At Caterina, Mike Scott’s back working full time. (He had also been splitting his time between the winery and Cancer Patient Care). His role has been redefined, so he’ll be doing some marketing and spend more time in the vineyard in addition to his winemaking duties. He says he’s excited about the new direction the winery is taking.

“We’ve been trying to be all things to all people, producing value wines, but also wanting to be known as a premium winery,” Scott said. “We’ve decided to focus on producing premium quality wines.”

The steely fresh, nicely crisp ‘98 sauvignon blanc has become a favorite one to order off the wine-by-the-glass list at a number of area eateries.

I picked up a bottle of Knipprath’s Alsatian-style riesling at The Alpine Deli, mistaking it for a European wine. The label looks like it’s from a German producer, with it reading: Trocken Riesling, Staate Washington.

Trocken means dry, and it truly is, with a slight spritz when you first open it. It has a sharp backbone that might seem overly acidic on the first sip. But it’s meant to be enjoyed with food, especially hearty charcuterie fare. And that’s where it really shines.

“It really balances out some of the fattier foods, the lentil and sausage soup or roast pork,” said Henning Knipprath.

The winery just released its alpine wine, a red blend of lemberger and pinot noir that’s spiked with spices. Just warm it up and you’ve got instant mulled wine. (Or, save it for summer sangria.) Latah Creek recently launched its first syrah, a ‘99 made with fruit from the Waulke Slope vineyard. “We weren’t really planning on making it, but the grapes became available at the last minute,” said winemaker/owner Mike Conway. “And it turned out really well.”

Conway also just released the second vintage of his Italian-style muscat canelli, a ever-so-spritzy wine he calls “Moscato.”

“We’ve had people begging for this since we ran out of the first release,” said Conway. “And I think this is as good, though it’s a little sweeter.”

Worden Winery is officially under new ownership and has changed its name to Wyvern Cellars.

Its recently released ‘97 cabernetmerlot just picked up a gold medal at the prestigious Long Beach Grand Cru event, as well as a silver at the Indiana State Fair International Wine Competition. The ‘97 cabernet also picked up a silver medal at that competition.

Sleeper alert

Pend d’Oreille Winery might be the best local producer that people don’t know about.

This Sandpoint outfit has been around for a couple of years but now has a full lineup of wine to show for its efforts.

The winemaker, Stephen Meyers, actually studied his craft in France and that French connection shows, especially in his lean, lovely chardonnay and pinot gris. He seems to be comfortable letting the fruit do its magic, without throwing a bunch of oak at it.

But Meyer’s reds are also impressive.

His ‘97 merlot and cabernet sauvignon made with fruit from Washington’s Columbia Valley are both terrific, coming on strong with classic varietal flavors - black cherry, plum, berries - and finishing off smooth.

The amazingly affordable Bistro Rouge is a blend of cabernet and merlot that absolutely blows away its similarly priced competition. (It just picked up a gold at the Tri-Cities wine fest.) If you didn’t know that it was a mere $7, you would never guess it by its luscious flavor.

Pend d’Oreille recently picked up a Spokane distributor, so you’ll be seeing it on the shelf. Get some now before The Wine Spectator raves roll in and it disappears.

Presentation matters

Sometimes, you can judge a wine by its label.

That’s what a local design company did when it invited area architects, interior designers, students and planners to create a special label for a series of Arbor Crest wines.

The proceeds from the sale of the wines will benefit Washington State University’s heart study program. So far, more than $1,400 has been raised.

Of the 21 entrants, three finalists were chosen. The winning label was designed by John McLean of Wolfe Ballantyne Studio Architects. Second place was awarded to Sofia Gonzalez, an interior design student from WSU, and third place went to Catherine M. Hanes of O’Connor, Monaghan & Somers.

Wine with the winning label can be purchased at Interior Solutions, which sponsored the competition. It’s located at 1229 N. Monroe. It’s a ‘98 merlot and sells for $15. Call 924-7200 for additional details.