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Frugal feasts

Just because you’re planning Thanksgiving dinner on a budget doesn’t mean you have to do what Dennis Held did to mark the holiday 20 years ago.

Held, a Spokane poet and writing teacher, was a broke student at The Evergreen State College in Olympia when he and his roommates decided to pool their meager funds for Thanksgiving dinner.

They amassed their money, cashed in their aluminum cans and came up with $16 between them.

So, they went to the store and bought a dozen turkey drumsticks, a bag of onions, a bag of potatoes and a 12-pack of beer (they were college students, after all). They visited the “egg lady” who lived nearby and grabbed three dozen eggs for $2.

“We roasted the drumsticks slowly, basting often, until the whole dorm filled with the smell of Thanksgiving,” Held wrote in an e-mail. “We couldn’t agree on much, but everybody there liked hash browns, so we made pan after pan of hash browns, some with onions and some without, and dropped fried eggs on top. With the roasted turkey on the side, we all agreed, we had a feast.”

So, that’s one way to do Thanksgiving dinner on the frugal side. But maybe your tastes run toward the more traditional. Is it possible to put together a table-filling feast without breaking the bank?

A basic Thanksgiving dinner need not cost a ton of dough, according to the American Farm Bureau Federation which surveys the price of the meal each year.

The 2005 survey found that a feast for 10 people would cost $36.78, including $15.11 for a 16-pound turkey. The dinner also includes stuffing, sweet potatoes, rolls and butter, peas, cranberries, a relish tray, pumpkin pie, coffee, and milk.

It’s when you start buying lots of unusual ingredients, like spices, or items that aren’t on sale that the price of dinner starts to climb.

Here are some tricks to keep your Thanksgiving dinner on budget:

Plan a manageable menu and stick with it. Figure out what the absolute crowd-pleasers are and skip the rest, said Nancy Sanders, supervisor of Washington State University’s Spokane County Extension Food Sense program.

“They need to talk with their family about what they like most and eliminate any high-cost things,” Sanders said.

A recent survey by cooking Web site Allrecipes.com found that a little more than half of Americans polled wouldn’t mind if there wasn’t any gelatin jiggling on the Thanksgiving table this year.

Consider serving sizes. If you’re serving multiple side dishes (mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, stuffing, relishes, etc.) remember that people won’t have room for full-sized servings of everything, said Charlie Martin, who teaches restaurant management classes for the culinary arts program at Spokane Community College. Unless you want lots of leftovers, consider making smaller batches of each dish. (Log on to www.butterball.com to compute how much turkey and stuffing you need for your crowd. For example, if you type in dinner for 10 adults and three kids, with leftovers, it recommends a 17-pound turkey and about 13 cups of stuffing.)

Comparison shop the grocery store circulars. “Look for things you traditionally use at Thanksgiving,” Martin said. “Write down the items that are on sale. Focus your purchases for the products you use.”

Don’t fear an inexpensive turkey. Two years ago, Martin and his wife held a turkey cook-off. She bought “an expensive free-range organic” one, Martin said, and he “got a 19-cents-a-pound one from Safeway.”

Martin’s turkey, which he had soaked in a simple salt-and-sugar brine, won the cook-off, he said.

“It’s not the turkey you buy,” Martin said. “It’s what you do with the turkey.”

Save money by buying a bigger turkey. That’s the advice of Spokane home cook Sharon O’Brien, who said she’s been doing Thanksgiving on a budget her whole life. Since hens cost more than toms, you can often get a big turkey for the same price as a smaller one. O’Brien recommends either freezing the leftover roast turkey or asking the butcher to cut the big bird in half. Roast one half for Thanksgiving and serve the other half at Christmas, she said.

Or … You don’t have to do turkey at all. There’s no law that says turkey has to be front and center on the Thanksgiving table. Reader Bill Wilson of Spokane likes to serve small Cornish game hens to a small gathering. “They only take 30-45 minutes from start to finish, and are fun to watch people try to figure out how to eat them with manners,” Wilson wrote in an e-mail. “Can’t be done. Just use your fork and fingers, with lots of napkins.”

And Sanders suggests saving money by getting a large roasting chicken instead of turkey.

Opt for fresh foods versus processed ones – unless there’s a big sale. During the holidays, you’ll probably find canned cranberries cheaper than a bag of fresh ones and the sugar to sweeten them. But you’ll likely save money if you save up old bread in the freezer to use for stuffing, instead of buying the packaged variety, Martin said.

Rebecca Knapp, a registered dietitian from the Spokane Valley, votes for fresh, simple foods – both for the wallet and the waistline. “Higher cost comes with all the extras, which usually add empty calories and leave us feeling over-stuffed, and feeling guilty for the pounds we gain,” Knapp writes in an e-mail.

Think about a potluck if you really want to save money. One way to please a variety of palates without busting your own budget is to ask each guest to bring a favorite dish to share. Just make sure you coordinate who’s bringing what so you don’t wind up with duplicates.

Send the kids outside to gather leaves, twigs and other things for an all-natural (and free) centerpiece. You can also invite the kids to make placemats for all of the guests, O’Brien said in an e-mail.

Offer water with slices of lemon to drink. “It’s better for you than soda pop, cheaper and adds a touch of elegance,” O’Brien writes.

Review this year’s dinner menu to better prepare for next Thanksgiving. “Take a poll of the family,” Martin said. “What do they like and what do they dislike? At the end of Thanksgiving, sit down and write down what you had too much of. Make a note of it and put it in a file.”

Here are some simple, traditional Thanksgiving recipes. They are all made with a minimal number of easy-to-find (and, probably, on-sale) ingredients.

Basic Brine for Turkey

From the editors of Cook’s Illustrated. You can add herbs, spices, sugar or other items to a brining solution, but here’s the most-basic recipe:

Soak the bird for four hours in a solution of 1 cup of table salt per gallon of water. If you prefer to soak the turkey overnight, use 1/2 cup of table salt per gallon of water.

Make sure the turkey is held below 40 degrees. Choose any foodsafe container large enough to keep the bird completely submerged. If you don’t have room in the refrigerator, you can use any foodsafe container, such as a cooler, to store the turkey. Make sure the container is cleaned and sanitized before and after use. And always use enough ice to keep the turkey cool enough.

If you are brining, make sure you’re using a turkey that has not already been injected with a salt solution.

Broccoli with Crunchy Crumb Topping

From Williams-Sonoma “Thanksgiving”

3 large bunches broccoli (about 10 stalks)

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1/2 cup plus 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

2 tablespoons finely chopped orange zest

3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

3 cups fresh white bread crumbs

Cut off the broccoli stems and reserve for another use. Separate heads into florets.

Bring a large pot three-fourths full of water to a boil. Salt the water and add the broccoli. Cook, stirring once or twice, until just tender, 4 to 6 minutes. Drain and transfer to a bowl of ice water. When cool, drain again and pat dry. (Broccoli can be prepared up to this step and refrigerated up to one day ahead.)

In a large frying pan over medium-high heat, melt the 1/2 cup butter. Add the orange zest and garlic and cook, stirring once or twice, until the butter begins to brown, about 3 minutes. Add the bread crumbs and stir to moisten. Cook, stirring occasionally, until crisp and golden brown, about 5 minutes. Stir in 1/4 teaspoon salt and a generous grinding of pepper. Remove from the heat and keep warm.

Meanwhile, in a large frying pan, melt the remaining 6 tablespoons butter. Add the broccoli, cover the pan, and cook, tossing and stirring occasionally, until heated through and glazed with butter, 5 minutes. Season with 1/4 teaspoon salt and a generous grinding of pepper and toss again.

Spoon the broccoli into a warmed wide serving bowl. Spoon the bread crumbs evenly over the broccoli and serve immediately.

Yield: 8 to 10 servings

Approximate nutrition per serving: 227 calories, 11 grams fat (6 grams saturated, 43 percent fat calories, 6 grams protein, 27 grams carbohydrate, 25 milligrams cholesterol, 3 grams dietary fiber, 354 milligrams sodium.

Popovers

From Williams-Sonoma “Thanksgiving”

2 eggs

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 cup milk

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

1 cup all-purpose flour

Butter a standard-sized 12-cup popover pan or muffin pan. In a bowl, combine the eggs and salt. Using a whisk, beat lightly. Stir in the milk and butter, then beat in the flour just until blended. Do not overbeat.

Fill each popover or muffin cup about half full and place in a cold oven. Set the oven temperature to 425 degrees and bake for 20 minutes. Reduce the heat to 375 degrees and continue to bake until the popovers are golden, 10-15 minutes longer. They should be crisp on the outside.

Quickly pierce each popover with a thin metal skewer or the tip of a small knife to release the steam. Leave in the oven for a couple of minutes for further crisping, then remove and serve at once.

Yield: 12 popovers

Approximate nutrition per serving: 52 calories, less than 1 gram fat (18 percent fat calories), 2 grams protein, 8 grams carbohydrate, 35 milligrams cholesterol, less than 1 gram dietary fiber, 60 milligrams sodium.

Corn Bread Stuffing

From WSU’s Spokane County Extension Food Sense program

2 packages corn bread mix (such as Jiffy), prepared per package directions

1/2 cup butter or margarine

1 1/2 cups chopped celery

1 cup chopped onions

1 1/2 cups orange juice

1 egg, beaten

1 teaspoon seasoned salt

Prepare corn bread per package directions.

In a large saucepan over medium heat, melt butter or margarine and add celery and onion. Cook celery and onion about 10 minutes or until tender, remove from heat. Crumble corn bread into mixture, stir in remaining ingredients. Mix well.

Yield: Makes about 9 cups, enough to stuff one 9-12 pound turkey

Approximate nutrition per serving: 250 calories, 12 grams fat (7 grams saturated, 43 percent fat calories), 4 grams protein, 34 grams carbohydrate, 45 milligrams cholesterol, 1 gram dietary fiber, 390 milligrams sodium.

Oven-Baked Garlic Potatoes

From WSU’s Spokane County Extension Food Sense program

4 medium potatoes

1 tablespoon canola or olive oil

1/2 teaspoon garlic salt, or to taste

Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

Peel potatoes and cut into long strips about 1/2-inch thick. Dry strips thoroughly on paper towels.

Toss potato strips in a bowl with oil as if making a salad. Add garlic salt.

When strips are coated with oil, spread them in a single layer on a cookie sheet, and place in preheated oven.

Bake for 25 minutes, turning every so often to brown on both sides.

For crispier potatoes, place under broiler for a minute or two.

Yield: 5 servings

Approximate nutrition per serving: 160 calories, 3 grams fat (less than 1 gram saturated, 17 percent fat calories), 30 grams carbohydrate, no cholesterol, 4 grams dietary fiber, 187 milligrams sodium.

Pumpkin Pie Squares

The squares from WSU’s Spokane County Extension Food Sense program will serve more people and will keep longer than a traditional pumpkin pie.

3/4 cup all-purpose flour

3/4 cup quick-rolled oats

1/2 cup packed brown sugar

1/2 cup margarine

16 ounce can of pumpkin

1 (13.5-ounce) can evaporated nonfat milk

2 eggs

2/3 cup white sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

Heat oven to 350 degrees

Combine flour, rolled oats, brown sugar and margarine in mixing bowl. Mix until crumbly, using electric mixer on low speed or by hand.

Press unto ungreased 13-by-9-by-2-inch pan. Bake at 350 degrees for 15 minutes.

Combine pumpkin, evaporated milk, eggs, sugar, salt and spices in mixing bowl; beat well. Pour into crust.

Bake for 35-40 minutes, or until filling is set.

Cool in pan and cut into 2-inch squares.

Refrigerate within 2 hours.

Yield: 24 squares

Approximate nutrition per square: 130 calories, 4.5 grams fat (1.5 grams saturated, 31 percent fat calories), 3 grams protein, 19 grams carbohydrate, 20 milligrams cholesterol, less than 1 gram dietary fiber, 95 milligrams sodium.