Arrow-right Camera
The Spokesman-Review Newspaper
Spokane, Washington  Est. May 19, 1883

Unique retreat


At the Symes Hot Springs Resort in Montana, the cozy hotel lobby shows some of the historical ambiance with original furniture still being used. Below, the historic building was built in 1930. The exterior stucco walls and the building are what travelers and guests saw when arriving in the 1940s. Today, the exterior looks about the same. 
 (The Spokesman-Review)
Mike Brodwater Correspondent

The Symes Hotel in Hot Springs, Mont., has amenities not found in any other hot springs resort. Guests will find a historic building, hot mineral water, excellent food and several hot water soaking options. This is a unique Western Montana overnight experience.

The water does make a difference. If you could take a challenge where water from various regional hot springs could be tested side by side, odds are that the Symes would win. It doesn’t take a chemical analysis to make the distinction. A good soak is all it takes.

Although there was a natural spring on the property, in 1947 a 248-foot well was drilled that produced water at 107 degrees. That water contains a unique complex of minerals. The list of minerals looks like a food package ingredients label with unpronounceable names: calcium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, sodium carbonate, sodium sulfate, sodium chloride, silica and ammonium chloride. Those ingredients add up exactly to 326.4 parts per million total dissolved solids. What all this chemistry boils down to is that while most other hot spring water is acidic, this water has a basic pH. That means that after soaking in it, the skin takes on a smooth, silky lasting feel.

The history of the hot springs and the resort is more interesting than the chemistry of the water. The local Indians used the primitive springs and warm mud. They constructed small log cabins over the springs and enjoyed the warm water and mud baths. When the Flathead Indian Reservation was opened to homesteading, the early residents shared the springs with Indians for its curative mineral water. Fred Symes bought the property and built a $50,000 mission-style hotel in 1930. A visit here will take you back to a time around the 1940s. Much of the original building remains, with its stucco outside walls, claw-foot tubs in individual stalls, and furniture.

The Symes is one of the West’s last surviving grand resort hotels. Most of the 31 available rooms do not have televisions or telephones. The present owner, Leslie Smith, has made a serious effort to keep the hotel in its historic state while upgrading the safety, heating, other facilities and guest comforts. For example, there are two new, outside pools at different soaking temperatures. There is a hot spring faucet as well as standard hot and cold water in some of the rooms. A two-person jetted tub and a Jacuzzi can be rented. Renovations and new construction are a continuing process, with a new kitchen to be completed next year.

As if the water is not enough creature comfort for guests to take advantage of, there is a day spa and salon on the premises. If you are really interested in getting spoiled for a weekend, include a therapeutic bath and massage. This is an extra treat in which men and women can indulge. The massage therapist, Kathy Kendall, has 20 years’ experience. If you are new to massage therapy, this may be the best place to try it. There are several kinds of therapies that can be chosen: Swedish Massage, LaStone Therapy, Watsu, Body Brush and Botanical Wrap, Oceana Body Polish and Wrap, and Aromatherapy Bath. Don’t hesitate to ask which one is best for you or about the fees. The casual, laid-back, Montana atmosphere makes this a comfortable, relaxing experience. You won’t regret it.

The Symes Hotel has a restaurant, espresso, live music, art gallery, antiques and gifts. Local talent is used for live entertainment. In a town of 530, it is surprising how good the talent is. Actually the talent comes from across the county. This month’s lineup includes Al Johnson, tonight, acoustic blues and folk; Elderly Brothers, Friday, sing-a-long ‘50s and ‘60s; Somewhere Down the Road, Brett Holmquist, next Saturday, folk music; Matt Smith, Jan. 19, classical guitar; and Jody Mosher, Jan. 20, Missoula favorite folk singer and guitarist.

Pick a weekend in January and spend some time at this resort. The world will seem warmer and more relaxed while traveling back home. You will have just experienced a unique hot springs in a historic setting. This is a Western Montana fun weekend retreat.