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If you go: Mainland Cancun

Waiters Venucio Aguilar, left, and Egildio Ek ham it up at the entrance to Perico's, a fabled Centro restaurant that offers classic Mexican fare. The waiters aren't allowed in the kitchen, but when not placing dishes in front of diners, they'll do most anything to keep you entertained. (The Spokesman-Review)
The Spokesman-Review
Waiters Venucio Aguilar, left, and Egildio Ek ham it up at the entrance to Perico's, a fabled Centro restaurant that offers classic Mexican fare. The waiters aren't allowed in the kitchen, but when not placing dishes in front of diners, they'll do most anything to keep you entertained. (The Spokesman-Review)

Getting around: The immediate vicinity – between Avenida Tulum and Mercado 28 – is easily walkable. I always felt safe but kept near major streets after dark. I saw no panhandlers at the park (I usually saw a police squad car there, probably keeping an eye out for tourists); you will see them on Avenida Tulum and just outside Mercado 28.

Cabs are readily available near Parque las Palapas and Mercado 28. Be aware that some drivers do not accept credit cards and that cabs are not metered. The fare from Centro to the Hotel Zone is about $12.

Main attractions: La Habichuela, Avenida Margaritas 25 ( www.lahabichuela.com).

Labna, Avenida Margaritas 29 ( www.labna.com/english).

Perico’s, Avenida Yaxchilan 61 ( www.pericos.com.mx). Hours: noon-10 p.m. daily. Entrees: $7-$20. Credit cards accepted.

Roots Jazz Club, Calle Tulipanes 26. Open 6 p.m.-2 a.m. most days; occasional cover charge. Also serves Caribbean food.

Mercado 28, 9 a.m.-9 p.m. daily ( www.mercado28.com).

More dining: Centro is loaded with eateries. Good options include Los Arcos and La Parilla, two doors apart on Avenida Yaxchilan; Casa Maja in the Hotel Xbalamque, on Avenida Yaxchilan; and El Porton.

Where to stay: Want to spend a night in centro? Hotel Xbalamque, on Avenida Yaxchilan 31, is a good bet. It’s a good-size place on a busy street, popular with Latin business travelers. An extremely attractive, plant-filled lobby reminds you you’re in the tropics.

The hotel is a block west of Parque Las Palapas, across the street from Perico’s, and an easy, 500-yard stroll west to Mercado 28. Rates; $38/double; $40/double for a suite. Details: www.xbalamque.com.

Paying the bill: Most restaurants I visited accept plastic, but most Mercado vendors do not. Either U.S. or Mexican money works fine. Both currencies use the dollar sign, but prices are posted in pesos.

The current rate is about 11 pesos to the U.S. dollar, so just knock off a zero and a tad. Example: When something costs $250, that’s a bit less than $25 U.S. – $22.80, to be precise.