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The Spokesman-Review Newspaper
Spokane, Washington  Est. May 19, 1883

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Give fluorescent lights a look

More intensities, colors available than in the past

Switching to fluorescent light bulbs saves energy. With a little research, you can find bulbs that give off a glow that closely matches that of an incandescent bulb. (Cheryl-Anne Millsap / Down to Earth NW)
Cheryl-Anne Millsap Down to Earth NW
A simple way to save energy and, in the long term save money, is to switch to compact fluorescent light bulbs. Most of us are all for the concept. They last longer and use substantially less energy.The drawback is the slightly greenish glow of the energy-efficient compact fluorescent bulbs. That’s not so appealing. Anyone who’s ever caught a glimpse of their reflection in a room lit with bad bulbs knows what I’m talking about. Like a lot of others, I miss the way incandescent bulbs warm a room visually, but I’m trying to do the right thing. So, I did a little research. According to the California Energy Commission’s Consumer Energy Center, “A single 20-watt compact fluorescent lamp used in place of a 75-watt incandescent will save about 550 kilowatt-hours over its lifetime.” That’s significant. Again, according to the CCE, “To create the same amount of light as an incandescent bulb, a fluorescent tube uses only one-quarter to one-third of the energy. Plus, fluorescents last 10 to 15 times longer - 10,000 hours or more.” OK. But what about the green glow on my face? Or the cold institutional lighting in my living room? Well that’s when it pays to meet Kelvin. A bulb listed with at least 2,700 Kelvin will give-off a glow similar to an incandescent bulb and won’t leave you “green” with envy. Here are the recommendations from Sierra Club Green Home: • Energy Stars. As with any product, not all CFLs are created equal. Always buy Energy Star labeled CFLs. These have to pass the federal government’s criteria for lamp life, light output, energy use, and other performance characteristics. • The right wattage. To choose CFLs with the right amount of light, read the product packaging. It will tell you how the bulb’s wattage compares with that of a standard incandescent. For example, an 18- to 25-watt CFL puts out the same amount of light as a 75-watt incandescent. • Low mercury. All fluorescent bulbs contain minute quantities of mercury. A few lighting manufacturers market “low mercury” bulbs. Since there are no standards or labeling requirements for mercury content, however, it can be difficult to compare bulbs based on this criteria. • The right color. Different fluorescent bulbs produce different colors of light. This can vary from brand to brand. The color is indicated in Kelvin (K) and may be printed on the package or on the ballast. The packaging also usually has a user-friendly label like “warm white.” Here’s other general guidance: If you want the CFL’s light color to match an incandescent’s warm glow, choose bulbs labeled “warm white” (2,700-2,800 K). These bulbs are more flattering to faces and clothes. • For activities like reading or sewing, you might want to choose “cool white” (3,200K to 4,000 K). Higher color temperatures provide better visual contrast. Some CFLs are labeled “daylight“(above 4,000 K). These provide a bright bluish light, like what you’d experience outside on a sunny day. • In addition to screw-in bulbs: hardwired CFLs. In some states, energy codes require hard-wired fluorescent lighting in kitchens and bathrooms. All fluorescent lights require a ballast, which contains the electronics. With hardwired CFLs, the bulb is separate and fits into the ballast with a pin base rather than a regular screw base. With hardwired CFLs you don’t need to replace the ballast (which can last 50,000 hours) when you change the bulb (which lasts 10,000 hours). Some hardwired CFL lamps include dimmers or two-way switches. • Linear fluorescents, or fluorescent tubes. These options are even more energy efficient than CFLs and can provide excellent-quality general lighting for kitchens and bathrooms, as well as perimeter or cove lighting in living rooms and other rooms. • If you buy “high efficiency” or “high efficacy” bulbs with a high CRI (color rendering index–as close to 90 as you can get), you’ll have good light and no flickering. The narrow diameter T8s and T5s are more efficient than the older style T12s but won’t fit in a fixture made for T12s. Dimming ballasts are available for linear fluorescents but you may have to special-order them. For more information go to www.sierraclubgreenhome.com.
Cheryl-Anne Millsap is a freelance columnist for The Spokesman-Review. She can be reached at catmillsap@gmail.com