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Raw or roasted, whole or chopped, nuts add flavor, texture

Chef Jeremiah Timmons holds his pecan-crusted brie appetizer at Ambrosia in Spokane Valley on Tuesday, Oct. 5, 2010. It's presented with a rhubarb-pepper compote, pear and baguette slices. (Jesse Tinsley / The Spokesman-Review)
Kirsten Harrington Correspondent

The changing colors and shorter days of fall mean holiday favorites like pecan pie, almond bark and nutty fruitcakes are just around the corner.

But why save crunchy, nutrient dense nuts just for sweet treats? High in fiber and heart-healthy fats, nuts are a great way to add a flavorful boost to savory dishes as well.

“My favorite nuts are pecans,” says Ambrosia Bistro and Wine Bar’s Executive Chef Jeremiah Timmons. “They meld well with tons of different foods … chicken, fish and beef.”

Timmons incorporates hazelnuts, walnuts and pecans into several savory dishes at the restaurant, including cheese dishes and salads.

Toasted nuts can be ground with a little flour to make a coating for baked chicken or fish, or added to sauces for an extra flavor dimension.

“There’s nuttiness to it, and added texture. It makes the sauce kind of creamy,” says Timmons.

Larry Knapp, who grows walnuts and hazelnuts on his Green Bluff farm, recommends sampling nuts before buying to make sure they’re fresh.

“Crack them open. They shouldn’t be dry or have an off smell,” he says.

Another way to gauge freshness is to shake the nuts. Too much rattling could indicate stale, dry nuts.

“In the shell they will hold for a year or more,” Knapp says. “Put them in old onion sacks (or other breathable material) and hang them from the ceiling in the basement.”

If you don’t have a basement, find another cool, dry spot with an even temperature.

“Buy (nuts) at a health food store or produce place with high turnover in inventory,” suggests Gene Cohen, owner of The Nut Factory in Greenacres.

Cohen’s wholesale business supplies nut products to more than 1,000 customers worldwide, and sells nuts and candy through is retail store and website (thenutfactory.com).

Once they are out of the shell, keep nuts in air-tight glass jars or plastic containers. For longer storage, Cohen recommends keeping nuts in plastic bags or Tupperware containers in the freezer or refrigerator. Airtight containers are important to keep moisture away from the nuts, and to keep other food odors and flavors from permeating the nuts.

For full flavor, allow frozen or refrigerated nuts time to come to room temperature before using in recipes.

As for hard-to-shell nuts, Cohen recommends putting them in the freezer first. Frozen nuts will crack more easily with less breakage of the nut meats.

Once frozen, use a hammer or block of wood to crack the nuts, covering them with a kitchen towel to minimize the mess.

Roasting and toasting

While Cohen likes the sweet, creamy texture of hazelnuts right out of the shell, he says they really shine when they are roasted: “The flavor turns smoky and robust and the texture is crisp and crunchy.”

Cohen prefers slow roasting hazelnuts in the oven at 275 degrees. Spread shelled nuts in a shallow baking pan and roast for 20 to 30 minutes, until the skin cracks and the meat turns light golden. It’s also possible to roast them in a microwave at full power for three to four minutes.

To remove the skins once the nuts are roasted, pour the hot nuts in the center of a rough terry kitchen towel. Pull the towel up around the nuts and twist tightly. Let them stand for about five minutes. Vigorously rub the warm nuts in the towel until most of the skins are removed.

Most nuts can be roasted at a higher temperature (350 degrees for seven to 10 minutes), but they must be watched carefully because they can go from golden to burned quickly. Keep in mind that nuts will continue to cook after they have been removed from the heat.

Chef Timmons prefers toasting nuts in a dry sauté pan over medium to medium-high heat.

“Keep them moving (by stirring) so the bottom doesn’t burn,” he says. “Keep a watchful eye and don’t walk away.”

Nut oils

Walnut, hazelnut and almond oil add another dimension of flavor to savory dishes. “They’re great in salad dressings,” Timmons says.

He cautions that nut oil flavors can be overpowering if used alone. For every three parts of oil in a recipe, try substituting one part nut oil for flavor, Timmons suggests.

Due to their lower smoke points, nut oils aren’t suitable for high-heat cooking. Instead, Timmons recommends trying walnut oil in salad dressings or using hazelnut oil as finishing agent to add flavor to a dish just before serving, Nut oils can be added to sauces at the very end once they are removed from heat.

After opening, nut oils should be stored in a cool, dark area (or refrigerated) to slow the oxidation process and keep them from going rancid quickly. If the oils solidify, simply allow them to warm up to room temperature for an hour or two before using and they will return to a liquid state.

Curry Almond Spread

Courtesy of The Nut Factory, Greenacres

16 ounces cream cheese

1 cup chutney, divided

2 teaspoons curry powder

1/2 teaspoon mustard

3/4 cup sliced almonds

1 or 2 green onions, sliced

Combine the cream cheese, 1/2 cup chutney, curry and mustard. Mix well. Place in a bowl lined with plastic wrap and refrigerate.

When ready to serve, turn onto a platter and top with the remaining chutney, sliced almonds and green onions. Serve with crackers.

Yield : Approximately 1 ½ cups.

Pecan Crusted Brie with Honey Rhubarb Compote

Courtesy of Chef Jeremiah Timmons, Ambrosia Bistro and Wine Bar, Spokane Valley.

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1 cup pecans (or substitute Macadamia nuts, walnuts or hazelnuts)

1 large egg

Pinch of salt

2 tablespoons whole milk

1 (8-ounce) piece brie cheese

Combine the flour and pecans in a blender or food processor and blend until mixture is somewhere between roughly chopped and powdery. Reserve in a small bowl.

In another small mixing bowl combine egg, salt, and milk. Place the brie into the egg mixture and coat well. Next roll the brie in the flour and nut mixture. Repeat, dipping the brie into the egg mixture and rolling in nut mixture again.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Place the brie on a baking sheet and bake for 10 to 15 minutes. Use a spatula to transfer brie to serving dish.

Serve with toasted baguette slices and Honey Rhubarb Compote (recipe follows).

Yield : Serves 4-6 as an appetizer.

Honey Rhubarb Compote

1 pound rhubarb cut into 1-inch pieces

2 tablespoons water

6 tablespoons honey

1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar

Combine ingredients in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally for 10 minutes or until rhubarb is tender. Allow compote to cool for one hour for flavors to develop. Serve with brie.

Yield : 4-6 servings

Romesco Sauce

Courtesy of Chef Jeremiah Timmons, who likes to serve this traditional Spanish sauce on grilled fish or pork. It’s also great as a sandwich spread and on grilled vegetables.

8 garlic cloves

2 cups dried bread cubes

2 jalapenos, roughly chopped

2/3 cup roasted almonds

4 red peppers, roasted over a gas flame or under the broiler until charred, skin and seeds removed

1 cup red wine vinegar

6 tablespoons tomato puree

2 teaspoons saffron soaked in 1 tablespoon water

2 teaspoons smoked paprika

2 teaspoons kosher salt

2 teaspoons black pepper

Extra-virgin olive oil, as needed

Sauté garlic, bread cubes, jalapenos, and almonds in olive oil. Put all ingredients in a food processor or blender and blend until smooth. Add extra-virgin olive oil until sauce reaches proper consistency.

Yield : About 3 cups

Candied Walnuts

Courtesy of Chef Jeremiah Timmons, who serves these candied nuts in Ambrosia’s signature salad of mixed greens, dried cranberries, feta cheese and red onion.

¾ cup egg whites

2 tablespoons brown sugar

Pinch of salt

2 cups walnut halves

Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Whip egg whites to soft peaks. Add sugar and salt. Continue to whip to stiff peaks. Once the egg whites form stiff peaks fold in the walnuts.

On a lined baking sheet (use parchment paper or wax paper) spread the egg white and nut mixture in a single layer and place into the center of the oven. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes or until the nuts are golden brown.

Stir the nuts using a rubber spatula and return them to the oven for another 10 minutes or until dry and golden. Place nuts in a cool dry place. Once they are cool to the touch they are ready to enjoy.

Yield : Approximately 2 cups

Raspberry Walnut Oil Salad Dressing

Courtesy of Jessica Winn, Oil & Vinegar, Spokane who likes the nutty taste walnut oil brings to this dressing.

1 cup walnut oil

½ cup raspberry balsamic vinegar (available at Oil & Vinegar, Huckleberry’s)

1 to 2 tablespoons vanilla yogurt

Whisk together and use to dress green salads, or increase the amount of yogurt to ½ cup to make a thicker dressing that can be spread on chicken prior to baking.

Yield : Approximately 1 ½ cups dressing.

Kirsten Harrington is a Spokane freelance writer. She can be reached at kharrington67@ earthlink.net.