The Return to Simplicity

While many fans of the royal wedding hoped for something more from newly minted Duchess of Cambridge Catherine Middleton in her choice of a bridal gown, most fashion loyalists and experts decreed it a resounding success. Going forward, expect to see a return to elegant simplicity in bridal gowns, mirroring Middleton’s Chantilly lace-drenched look created by Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen’s fashion house. That means fewer ruffles, perhaps less embroidery, and embellishments used sparingly - whether it’s Lazaro’s spaghetti-strap lace sheath dress or Tara Keely’s strapless satin number. “Brides are truly inspired by the royal wedding,” says Alexis Williamson, co-owner and original creative director of Le Salon Bridal Boutique, with locations both in Royal Oak, Mich., and at the Four Seasons Hotel Chicago. “We plan to carry versions of it in our store, but we’ll be looking for elements that will appeal to the fashion-forward bride, such as pockets or a full A-line ballgown.” Williamson says she is picking up the re-creations by lines Justin Alexander Bridal and Allure Bridal. Justin Alexander’s interpretation embodies a rich satin with laces, rendered with a shorter train and a lighter base fabric. Tony Mentel, the co-designer of the line, is betting that demure designs “will become a big trend in bridal.” It’s not easy to fashion understated dresses oozing elegance and style. The risk is that the end product will be, well, boring, or not feel special or festive enough. Beyond ‘Simple’ “‘Simple’ is misleading in this regard, as excellence in design and technique [is] key to the success of any elegantly simple dress,” says San Francisco-based bridal designer Amy Kuschel. “The slightest defects in quality or workmanship would spoil a design of this nature. ” To make the dresses pop, designers are employing a number of techniques to create the “wow” factor, such as focusing on shape, incorporating lush fabrics and implementing a novel detail. Kuschel says textured fabrics for added surface interest are key, such as French Chantilly laces, embroidered tulle, netting and English Bobbinet. Her collection offers a refined trumpet silhouette in a crisp silk taffeta with luxurious French beaded ribbon lace and a strapless A-line gown made of French lace and silk satin organza with a drop-waist bodice. “It’s more about the quality of the fabric, then the stuff on the fabric,” says Lori Weil, sales director for Monique Lhuillier, whose laces hail from Italy, France and Switzerland (the silk satins also call Italy home). “By using high-quality laces and satins [and] pretty feminine shapes, we can enhance the girl rather than overwhelm her with a dress full of stuff.” A sumptuous re-embroidered lace strapless, corset gown and a dreamy silk white Chantilly lace strapless trumpet gown are a few of the highlights at Monique Lhuillier, whose Spring 2012 designs arrived before the royal wedding. She even dubbed one gown, a satin, strapless modified trumpet gown, Simplicity. Vera Wang, whose staple is often frothy, light-as-air creations, designed a few less-is-more looks for her Spring 2012 collection. There’s the charcoal strapless ballerina ballgown with a swirling organza pleated train and a dusty rose strapless mermaid gown with cascading French tulle that exude modest romance. But, the designer advises that brides don’t cookie-cutter themselves and try to mold their wedding look a la Catherine. “A wedding gown is about self-expression,” Wang says. “It’s about a woman’s creativity, sense of self, intelligence and sense of romance. A wedding gown must always embody the individual.” How to make the dress - and bride - really sing is through accessorizing the look for a personalized end-product. Brides can put their fingerprint on the dress with their use of makeup, a veil and choice of flowers to create a dramatic entrance. Kuschel notes a bride may want to heighten the drama with a cage veil, faux fur stole, vintage pearls and layered necklaces, even a decadent cuff. Justin Alexander’s Mentel encourages bold make-up. Weil, of Monique Lhuillier, suggests brides can add a beaded belt, an artful bolero or a colored sash to own the look. “They can even use one belt for the ceremony and another for the reception for a different feel,” she says. For some of the gowns at Watters, such as an ivory embroidered-lace strapless dress with a nude color lining and a silk shantung strapless dress with covered buttons down the back, the idea of extras is to flatter and transform. “Maybe she’ll pick a killer statement necklace, an incredible pair of shoes or even cowboy boots for a rustic chic bride,” says Maria Prince, vice president of Dallas-based Watters. “It’s about starting from a simpler place. If they started with an over-the-top dress, then brought in these ingredients, it would be overkill.”