Cruising Glacier’s lakes

It’s the 100th anniversary of the National Park Service. The Northwest is privileged to have several parks within a day’s drive. It’s time to visit one – maybe Glacier National Park.
Although Glacier National Park is known for its many hiking trails, a lake excursion is the easiest way to see some of the backcountry. The only exercise with lake cruising is to walk to the dock and board the boat, which may be especially appealing to visitors with mobility issues and families with small children. For serious hikers who want to gain access deep into the wilderness, cruises on two of the lakes can be used as a shuttle to the other end.
Glacier Park Boat Co. has been operating the cruise boats since 1938. All the cruise boats are historic and well-maintained, which adds to the experience. The trip is enhanced by an on-board park ranger or trained skipper who describes the geology, history, forest fires and animals found in the area.
One of the cruises offers two lakes to enjoy while paying one fare. All the cruises offer scenic views of spectacular mountains carved by glaciers into deep U-shaped valleys and rocky, towering, snowy peaks, some shaped like pyramids.
Lake McDonald
Lake McDonald has had a cruise boat since 1885. In fact, it was the only way to enter the interior of the park because there were no roads. Lake McDonald Lodge was built with the front entrance facing the lake because guests arrived by boat.
The first boat was the steam-powered F.I. Whitney. The trip was an adventure. “It was too hot below deck by the boiler and if you rode topside, sparks burned holes in your clothes,” according to a sign near the dock. Gratefully, now the trip is more comfortable. The DeSmet is one of the wooden fleet of boats and is still boarded at Lake McDonald Lodge.
There are no drop-off points for hikers on this cruise because a paved road hugs the east side of the lake. A regularly scheduled ranger is on board. Check with the boat company for ranger tours. The on-board trip includes views of the garden wall and the Going-to-the-Sun Road on the north end of the lake.
This year cruises run through Sept. 25. Tickets are $17.25 for adults, $8.75 for children 4 to 12 and free for children younger than 4.
Many Glacier
After driving over Logan Pass on the Going to the Sun Road for the first time, the reaction could be how can this scenery get any better? But it does. Entering the Many Glacier region 12 miles east of Babb, with towering snowcapped mountains in three directions with a large lake reflection, is magnificent.
The cruise begins on the dock at the Swift Current Hotel, which is remarkable and requires a walk-through in itself. The historic wooden boat Chief Two Guns takes tourists to the far end of Swift Current Lake. This is where it gets more interesting: Passengers disembark and take a short trail – 0.2 mile – to Lake Josephine, where there’s another dock. You are invited to board yet another wooden boat.
The Golden Eagle will cruise down the transparent blue-green waters past near-vertical mountainsides to the far end of the lake. Once you arrive, the options are staying on the boat and returning to the hotel, walking to Grinnell Lake with its incredible milky, blue-green glacier melt water or hiking to Grinnell Glacier and beyond. There are no bad choices.
Cruises are available Monday through Sept. 18. Tickets are $26 for adults, $13 for children 4 to 12.
Two Medicine
The Two Medicine area of Glacier National Park is found in the southeast corner. It is more remote, more primitive and less visited than other areas. However, the scenery is as impressive as anywhere in the park.
Just inside the park from the turnoff at the town of East Glacier is Glacier Park Lodge, another must-see historic hotel. Passing the hotel and dropping down into the valley at the end of a paved road there is a parking lot, campground, gift/convenience store and a dock on Two Medicine Lake. Moored at the dock is your cruise boat for the day. Sinopah is the oldest of the wooden fleet in the park. It will cruise about 3 miles up the lake, where there are several options for passengers.
The effortless option is to stay on board and return. However there is a round trip 1.8-mile hike to Twin Falls, which can be a guided hike with a ranger or on your own. There is a 6-mile round trip to upper Two Medicine Lake with great scenic and photography opportunities. The last return trip pickup is at 5:30 p.m. If you miss the boat, take a 3.5-mile trail back to the parking lot. There are several short hikes whose trailheads are near the main road and parking lot.
Cruises run through Sept. 11. Tickets are $13 for adults, $6.50 for children 4 to 12, free for children younger than 4.
St. Mary Lake
This tour starts at the Rising Sun boat dock, about 5 miles from the eastern park entrance at the town of St. Mary.
The boat goes by Wild Goose Island and offers views of Sexton Glacier. Passengers can also access hiking trails at the head of the lake.
This year, cruises run June 18 through Sept. 5. Tickets are $26 for adults, $13 for children 4 to 12 and free for children younger than 4. The last sailing of the day is discounted as it’s shorter and does not dock at the head of the lake.
If you go
The boats are small and fill up quickly. Make reservations at www.glacierparkboats.com or by phone at (406) 257-2426.