Direct Exum listed as ‘classic climb’ of North America

As the highest peak in the range, the Grand Teton commands attention. Because of this, it’s the mountain most climbers attempt when seeking their Teton merit badge.

The summit of the Grand Teton can be reached by more than 90 routes, or variations of routes, but the vast majority of climbers use only two lines: The Owen-Spalding, or the Upper Exum. Of these, the Owen-Spalding is easier, but the Upper Exum is far more aesthetic.

The first known ascent of the Grand Teton came in 1898, when William Owen, Franklin Spalding, and two others reached the summit by – you guessed it – the Owen-Spalding route. There are claims of earlier ascents, in 1872 and 1893, but they have never been verified, so first ascent honors are generally credited to Owen and Spalding.

The first ascent of the Upper Exum was made by Glenn Exum in 1931. Since then, it has earned a deserved reputation as a classic.

“Over the past half-century (the Upper Exum) has acquired a tradition as the route of choice to the summit of the Grand Teton,” wrote Leigh Ortenburger and Reynold Jackson in their guidebook, “A Climber’s Guide to the Teton Range.”

Though the Owen-Spalding is better suited for climbers with little experience, Ortenburger and Jackson hold the Upper Exum in higher esteem. “The combination of ready access, southern exposure, and moderate but exciting climbing with excellent rock on a line leading directly to the summit ensures its continued popularity.”

The Direct Exum – which links the Lower Exum with the Upper Exum in a single, continuous push – was first climbed by Jack Durrance in 1936.

Because of its many charms, the Direct Exum is listed in the famed mountaineering book, “Fifty Classic Climbs of North America,” by Steve Roper and Allen Steck.

The Grand Teton actually boasts three of those 50 classic climbs, with the other two being the North Ridge and the mountain’s iconic North Face. The only other Teton climb listed in “Fifty Classic Climbs of North America” is the Direct South Buttress of Mount Moran.