Fall Styles Follow The Retro Form

Forecasters of women’s fashions are all pointing in the same direction for fall ‘97: back 15 years ago to a time when the most important elements in a woman’s wardrobe were her business suits.

Keeping with the retro influence so important in other areas of fashion this season, suits with skirts or pants will be the main factors to look for in women’s apparel as we head into autumn.

They aren’t exact copies of the 1980 power suits, however. They have undergone a few key changes to update the styling (and make your old suits look totally wrong).

For starters, the jackets are longer. Most are at least hip-length, while some designers are showing jackets so long they could double as coats.

Lapels have also been modified. They are shorter and wider than we’ve seen in years, not a look that is usually very flattering on anyone but the tall and willowy. Longer jackets, however, help balance out the look, making it wearable for most women.

The most important element in the jacket designs is the return of shoulder pads. They are not quite of the Joan Collins/”Dynasty” width yet, but they’re definitely more structured than we’ve seen in recent years.

Look to fall foliage as inspiration for suit colors as the bright citrus hues of summer fade into much more subtle tones for fall. Chartreuse turns to olive while orange darkens to terra cotta. The most important colors will be placed on a brown palette - camel, brick and espresso. And don’t forget the pinstripes, especially if they are in taupe flannel.

Skirts may be long or short, but one thing they all have in common is a side slit. This tailoring detail is daring and dramatic, but remember to wear a slip with a slit at the same place or the effect will be ruined.

Suit trousers mimic menswear in their design. Wider legs, higher waistlines and double pleating make them look fluid but not sloppy.

Blouses are sheer, iridescent and ultrafeminine in colors that brighten otherwise dull suits. Simple T-shirts or shimmery silk blouses in cinnamon, sapphire or bronze add a little spice to the mix.

Scarves can also liven up a toned-down suit. Drape a Kelly green silk rectangle woven with a hint of gold Lurex over your shoulders and watch heads turn as you walk down the street.

Also making big news this fall are accessories, primarily because they are being kept to a minimum. Simple and chic are the key words when it comes to jewelry.

If you wear earrings, they should be small and classic. Gold hoops, diamond studs or pearls make a simple, clean statement.

But go wild with a little fake fur trim. Add a detachable tiger stripe collar and cuffs to your suit for a trendy look that can be removed as soon as the seasons change. Or carry a faux crocodile bag and wear matching pumps.

Real leather, especially suede, is another important accent. Whether it’s a skirt, a pair of boots or a stunning tote, soft-as-butter suede will complete your look.

If you have been following fashion trends for the younger generation, you will see a similar retro theme there, too. From preschoolers to CEOs, it appears the hottest look for everyone this fall will be reruns.

MEMO: Shanna Southern Peterson is a Spokane writer and home economist. The Clothesline appears weekly. Ideas for the column may be sent to her c/o The Spokesman-Review Features Department, P.O. Box 2160, Spokane, WA 99210, or e-mail shanptr@aol.com.