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The Spokesman-Review Newspaper
Spokane, Washington  Est. May 19, 1883

Tips for serious gutter repair

Samantha Mazzotta King Features Syndicate

Q: Recently I cleaned out and inspected the gutter system around my home. It’s pretty old, so I wasn’t surprised to find lots of rust and areas that need patching. My question is, how much patching should I do before replacing gutter sections entirely? I don’t want to waste time and money. — George K., Quincy, Mass.

A: A good rule of thumb on patching versus replacing a damaged area is the size of the damage. If a metal gutter has damage or extensive rust (meaning, nearly rusted-through) over 2 feet of the run, that area should be completely replaced.

•Measure the exact length of the damaged gutter, adding a couple of inches on each side. Then, trace the contours of the gutter onto a sheet of paper to bring with you to the hardware store. (If possible, take a digital picture as well to get the closest match.) Purchase a length of replacement gutter and gather the tools you’ll need for the job. These include: a flat pry bar, hacksaw, screwdriver, sheet-metal screws, silicone caulk and gun, gutter hangers and wood scraps.

•Purchase a small can of paint and primer to match the current gutter colors, too, and wear heavy leather gloves during the repair.

•From your work ladder, locate the gutter hangers nearest the damaged section and wedge a scrap of wood behind the gutter to brace it. Carefully pry out the hangers, levering the pry bar against the braced section. Next, slip additional spacers between the gutter and the fascia (the part of the roof to which the gutters are attached) at the spots where you will be sawing through the section. Use the hacksaw to cut out the damaged gutter, being careful not to cut into the roof.

•Ensure that the new material fits the space, with at least 2 inches overlap on either end of the existing gutter. Then, clean the ends of the old gutter. Add a generous amount of silicone caulk to the inside of the old gutter ends, center the patch over the caulked areas and press in securely. Use sheet-metal screws to completely secure the ends to each other — at least four on each side. Then install new gutter hangers, avoiding the old holes by a few inches (using the existing holes will result in a loose gutter that’s prone to damage). Finally, prime and paint the patch to match the existing gutter’s color.

•If the majority of your home’s gutter system is badly rusted, damaged or leaking, you’ll need to start looking into a complete replacement. Metal gutters are typically installed by professionals, but a snap-together vinyl system is available for do-it-yourselfers. Measure the existing gutter system and estimate the cost of both options beforehand.

Home Tip: Clean and inspect gutter systems at least once a year, preferably twice. Accumulated leaves and twigs, birds’ nests and damage from summer and winter storms must be dealt with as soon as possible to lengthen the life of the system.