In recent years, searching for a summer holiday in Greece, I’ve turned my back on the sea. Icons of carefree fun since the 1960s, the beaches and islands now come with heat waves, forest fires, crowds and inflated prices. I’ve headed inland, up into the mountains. Here, whitewashed villages give way to stoic stone settlements, draped in silence and mist. It’s a Greece few tourists see: a highland culture that defies postcard cliches.