OMAK, Wash. – Out of the blackness, a cacophony of whoops and war cries rose up from the Okanogan River, past the medics along the riverbank, the crowd lining the steep pitch of the dusty hill and the string of riders waiting at the top. Ralph Moses, a 32-year-old Colville Indian, sat on his mount, Patch, a 7-year-old gray quarter horse.