Bacon, Capers Can Sizzle Up Trout

Trout triggers a certain reverie among outdoor people. Casting into sun-warmed waters is so much nicer than pecking on a computer. A spring rite, no doubt.

However, when buying this delicate, sweet fish, shoppers will find their catch most likely came from a huge hatchery - not too romantic, but very efficient.

Fish are raised according to consumer demands. Rainbow trout in particular are being bred to a - to 1 1/2-pound size that is preferred by restaurants and home cooks looking for a convenient, single-serving item.

If you’ve only purchased fish skinned and filleted, bearing no resemblance to a living thing, a full trout with the head on can be a bit of a shock.

Relax. Trout have a simple frame. The backbone and rib cage can easily be removed from the cooked fish without mangling the fillets. Cut along the top of the backbone and peel down the fillets on the sides.

As for cooking, a whole trout is no more troublesome than a fish fillet. The simpler the preparation, the better the trout will be. Just coat the fish and pan-fry.

Trout with Bacon and Capers is a savory version of the coat-and-fry technique. The fish is dusted with flour, cornmeal and cayenne, then fried in bacon fat and flavored with sage leaves, capers and white wine.

Accompany the trout entree with Asparagus and Artichoke Vinaigrette for a spring treat.

Trout with Bacon and Capers

2 tablespoons flour

2 tablespoons cornmeal

1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

4 strips bacon

2 small rainbow trout (each about 1/2 pound), cleaned, with heads on or removed as desired

4 large sage leaves

2 tablespoons small capers

1/4 cup dry white wine

Lemon wedges

Combine flour, cornmeal, cayenne, salt to taste and pepper in a plastic bag.

Fry bacon in large skillet until crisp. Remove to plate lined with paper towels and set aside.

Add trout to bag and shake well to coat with flour mixture. Remove trout from bag. Arrange 2 sage leaves in cavity of each fish.

Reheat skillet with bacon fat if necessary. Add trout to skillet and brown on both sides, about 1 minute per side. Drain off most of fat. Add capers, wine and crumbled bacon to skillet. Cook trout until done, about 5 minutes per side.

Place 1 trout on each of 2 plates. Add lemon wedges. Serve immediately.

Yield: 2 servings.

Asparagus And Artichoke Vinaigrette

4 baby artichokes (see note)

6 to 8 fat asparagus stalks

Salt

1 teaspoon green peppercorns, packed in brine (see note)

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Trim tough outer leaves from artichokes. Cut off top 1/2 inch of each artichoke. Snap bottoms off asparagus.

Place artichokes in medium pan of salted water. Bring to boil. Reduce to medium heat and cook at low boil 10 minutes. Add asparagus spears and cook until tender but not limp, and artichokes are tender enough for fork to go through, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain well and set aside while preparing dressing.

Mash peppercorns in cup. Add vinegar, oil and salt to taste. Pour over vegetables and set aside 30 minutes. Serve at room temperature.

Yield: 2 servings.

Note: If baby artichokes are not available, use 2 small to medium artichokes. Trim as directed and halve before cooking. Cut in half again (into quarters) to serve.

In place of green peppercorns, you can substitute 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper.

MEMO: Bev Bennett is the author of four cookbooks.