Leek … That Charming And Mysterious Vegetable

Some ingredients are naturally sophisticated, and some aren’t.

A potato? Certainly enduring and vital, but basic, the Gene Hackman of the vegetable bin.

Then there are leeks - charming and mysterious. Would Emma Thompson be a leek? Possibly.

Leeks are more popular in Europe than in the United States, which also gives them cachet. Never mind that green or basic yellow onions are a cheap alternative. They aren’t leeks.

Leeks are great in soups and stews but, since they are expensive, why hide them? Instead, turn the stalks into an elegant bed for seafood. The Scallops and Leeks recipe that follows provides basic directions for preparing the vegetable as well as dressing it to use as a salad (leeks vinaigrette is a classic French dish).

Leeks resemble green onions with middle-age spread, but resist the urge to choose the fattest available, as they tend to have woody centers. Also skip those that are yellow, not creamy white, or that have wilted green leaves. The green tops usually are too fibrous to be eaten plain but can go into the stockpot.

Scallops and Leeks

Leeks (recipe follows)

1/2 pound sea scallops

2 tablespoons flour

1/4 teaspoon chili powder

Salt

2 tablespoons butter

1 teaspoon lime juice

Freshly ground white pepper

Prepare leeks as described. Set aside.

Rinse scallops under cold water. Drain and pat dry.

Combine flour, chili powder and 1/4 teaspoon salt in small paper or plastic bag. Add scallops and shake to coat with flour.

Heat butter in small skillet. Add scallops in single layer and saute over medium-high heat until golden, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Remove from skillet.

Stir lime juice into butter left in skillet. Season lightly with salt and generously with white pepper. Return scallops to skillet just to heat through in lime-butter juices. Serve scallops over leeks.

Yield: 2 servings.

Leeks

4 medium leeks

1/2 cup dry white wine

1/4 cup water

5 teaspoons olive oil

1 teaspoon fresh lime juice

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Salt

Trim off and discard green stalks and stem ends of leeks, leaving 3- to 4-inch white pieces. Cut into vertical halves. Carefully rinse under cold water, holding leeks to keep them from separating.

Place in nonreactive skillet. Add wine and water. Cover and cook over medium heat until fork-tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Carefully remove leeks to deep platter.

Boil down liquid remaining in skillet until 1 tablespoon remains. Strain through fine sieve if gritty. Place liquid in bowl. Add olive oil, lime juice, pepper and salt to taste. Pour over leeks. Set aside to cool to room temperature.