Ready, Load! When It Comes To Carbo Loading, The Battle Between Potatoes And Pasta Is Still Being Fought

Today’s culinary quiz: What starts with a “P,” is packed with complex carbohydrates and makes a fine fuel for anyone preparing for Sunday’s Bloomsday race in Spokane?

Why, potatoes, of course.

What’s that? You said pasta instead? No surprise there. Pasta is typically what’s associated with runners “carbo-loading” their bodies before a big event.

Time for a reality check or two. Loading up on carbohydrates the night before isn’t likely to improve your performance, unless you’re a skilled athlete on a multi-day dietary program - although you’ll feel better bumbling up Doomsday Hill with spaghetti in your digestive system as opposed to such fattier treats as, say, cheese enchiladas, or Cherry Garcia.

And if it’s carbos you crave, potatoes provide almost as much per ounce as pasta, with considerably fewer calories.

One cup of cooked pasta has 30 to 40 grams of carbohydrate and 150 to 200 calories, while a similar-sized potato has about 28 grams of carbohydrate and 115 calories. Looking at it another way, about 80 percent of pasta’s calories come from carbohydrates, compared to almost 100 percent for potatoes.

Once eaten, carbohydrates are broken down into a substance called glycogen, which is stored in the liver and muscles and slowly converted into simple sugar as the body needs it for energy.

“If that’s not there, you’re going to ‘hit the wall’,” or run out of gas, says Craig Hunt, dietitian at Gold’s Gym in Spokane.

But there’s no need to stuff yourself full of carbohydrates the night before Bloomsday, Hunt says: “If you overeat, you will be uncomfortable, and you’ll have extra waste to get rid of during the race.”

In fact, carbo loading may be more useful after you cross the finish line. “Go into the tents and get a banana or a muffin and get your blood sugar stabilized,” Hunt advises.

As for potatoes vs. pasta, Hunt says pasta breaks down a little more slowly in the body, particularly egg noodles with their added fat. Either way, he says, adding a little protein as a topping, such as meat or cheese, will keep carbohydrates from burning up too fast.

But there’s more than mere chemistry at stake here. Like running Bloomsday, eating potatoes reaffirms your regional loyalty. Idaho is the top potato-producing state in the country, with Washington coming in second.

About 10 years ago, nutritional analyses showed Washington potatoes had an even higher carbohydrate content than average, according to Henry Michael, president and chief executive officer of the Washington State Potato Commission.

Looking for ways to market its findings, the commission decided to promote potatoes through running events.

“As you may remember, ‘couch potato’ was a pretty popular phrase around then,” says Dale Simpson of the EvansGroup, the commission’s Seattle public relations firm.

“We were trying to get away from the idea that potatoes were a fatty, slothful food. Running was approaching the height of its popularity, and we tried to catch that wave.”

The commission supplied spuds for formal pre-race dinners at marathons across the country, including Boston, as well as at Bloomsday from the late 1980s through last year.

That advertising campaign has ended, Michael says, although the commission still will have a booth at the Bloomsday trade show and use elite wheelchair racer Jim Knaub as a spokesman.

“Everybody will be looking forward to potatoes this year, and we’ll be having pasta,” chuckles Karen Heaps, Bloomsday race director.

Still, there’s no reason you can’t have a pre-race potato feed at home. Just be sure to skip the butter and sour cream; baked potatoes are an easy and tasty main course, but you’ll be better off with less fatty toppings such as chili (meatless or made with ground turkey), salsa (but not too spicy the night before a race), tomato sauce, yogurt and steamed or stir-fried vegetables.

Sister Madonna Buder, an accomplished marathon runner and triathlete, even eats a pre-race potato breakfast - “Appo-sauce,” her own creation of baked, peeled potatoes and apples, mashed together and eaten cold, sprinkled with cinnamon.

“It’s very easy on the stomach,” says Buder, a 65-year-old Spokane nun who holds several triathalon records for her age group. “The blandness of the potato is balanced by the sweetness of the apple.”

While such typical tuber entrees as shepherd’s pie (try a veggie filling instead of beef) and potato pancakes would also work as Bloomsday eve meals, there are some spud dishes more in keeping with the pasta tradition.

Potatoes take the place of pasta when made into gnocchi, the Italian word for “dumpling,” using a stiff dough that’s cut into small pieces and boiled. Gnocchi marries well with most pasta sauces, or can simply be tossed with a little butter and Parmesan cheese.

You can even put potatoes in a pasta sauce. While that’s not common in Italy, it’s sometimes done in northern regions, according to Jack Bishop, an editor of Cook’s Illustrated and author of the new cookbook “Pasta e Verdura: 140 Vegetable Sauces for Spaghetti, Fusilli, Rigatoni and All Other Noodles” (HarperCollins).

Following are recipes for basic gnocchi and a pasta sauce from Bishop’s book using roasted potato cubes, as well as a double-decker carbo creation - a potato-topped pizza from veggie guru Steven Raichlen.

Potato Gnocchi

From “Vegetarian Pasta,” by Marlena Spieler (Thorsons, 1995), this recipe works equally well with dehydrated mashed potato flakes.

2 pounds baking potatoes (preferably Yellow Finnish or Yukon Gold), or 3 ounces dehydrated mashed potatoes

1 egg, lightly beaten

2-1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

Bake potatoes until tender. Let cool; remove flesh and mash in a large bowl. (If using dehydrated potatoes, prepare according to package directions; stir well and let cool to room temperature).

Add egg and half the flour and mix well, kneading like bread, but being careful not to overknead. The dough should be soft, but hold its shape. Add remaining flour as needed until dough is firm but still workable.

Break dough into chunks. With floured hands, gently roll each chunk into a cylinder about 3/4 inch thick. Using a sharp knife, cut off short, squat lengths, about 1/2 inch wide. Carefully lay finished dumplings on a floured board as you cut them. Let dry for at least 15 minutes.

Bring large pot of water to boiling and add gnocchi. Immediately reduce heat to a simmer. Cook gnocchi about 4-6 minutes; when done, they will float to the surface. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain thoroughly. If you like, let gnocchi rest for 30-60 minutes to settle and firm up.

Serve topped with your favorite pasta sauce, or layer gnocchi and sauce in a baking dish, top with grated Parmesan cheese and bake at 350 degrees until cheese melts.

Yield: 4-6 servings.

Pasta with Crunchy Potato Croutons, Tomatoes and Parsley Pesto

From “Pasta e Verdura,” by Jack Bishop (HarperCollins, 1996). Other fresh herbs, such as basil or cilantro, can be used for the pesto.

2 medium baking potatoes (about 1-1/4 pounds)

Salt to taste

5 tablespoons olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1/2 cup tightly packed parsley leaves

2 medium cloves garlic, peeled

3 medium ripe tomatoes (about 1-1/4 pounds)

1 pound linguine or other long, thin pasta

Bring 4 quarts of salted water to a boil in a large pot for cooking the pasta.

Bring several quarts of water to boil in a medium saucepan. Scrub potatoes under cold, running water, but do not peel. Add potatoes and salt to taste to boiling water. Cook until a metal skewer slides easily into center of potatoes, 15-20 minutes; they should be soft, but not mushy or falling apart. Drain.

When cool enough to handle, peel potatoes and cut into 1/4-inch cubes. Toss with 2 tablespoons oil and salt and pepper to taste and set aside.

Mince parsley with garlic and combine with remaining 3 tablespoons oil (or use a small food processor); add salt and pepper to taste. Some oil can separate from pesto, which does not need to be perfectly smooth.

Core tomatoes and cut in half. Over sink, squeeze out as many seeds as possible. Cut into -inch cubes and toss with pesto in a large bowl. Adjust seasonings as necessary.

Preheat broiler and spread potato cubes in a single layer on a lightly greased baking sheet. Broil, turning several times, until potato croutons are golden brown and crisp, 5-7 minutes.

While potatoes are broiling, cook and drain pasta. Toss hot pasta with tomato/pesto mixture and most of the potato croutons. Transfer to warm serving bowls and garnish with remaining croutons.

Yield: 4 servings.

Potato Pizza

From “High-Flavor, Low-Fat Vegetarian Cooking,” by Steven Raichlen (Viking, 1995). Raichlen says onion-potato pizzas are popular in many parts of Europe, especially the Alsace region of eastern France.

1-1/2 tablespoons olive oil

5-6 onions (3 cups thinly sliced)

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar

1 teaspoon fresh thyme, or 1/2 teaspoon dried

1 large baking potato (12 ounces), peeled and cut into 1/4-inch dice

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Dough (or prepared crust) for an 11- to 12-inch pizza

Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

Heat olive oil in a large nonstick frying pan. Cook onions and garlic over medium-low heat until rich golden brown, about 10 minutes. Add balsamic vinegar and thyme and bring to a boil.

Meanwhile, place potatoes in cold, salted water to cover. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer 8-10 minutes, or until tender. Drain in a colander.

Stir potatoes into onion mixture and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Spread mixture on top of pizza crust and bake 10-15 minutes, or until nicely browned. Cut into wedges and serve.

Yield: 4-6 servings as a first course, or 2-3 servings as a main course.

, DataTimes ILLUSTRATION: Staff illustration by Molly Quinn