Spread The Word: Boursin
Unpublished correction: The ratings for each item are for taste and value rather than for price and value.
With the round of holiday parties about to begin anew, the operative word is “spread.”
That’s what hosts and hostesses set out - and that’s what our waistlines steadily do.
In the spirit of the season, we served an assortment of garlic- and herb-flavored cheese spreads, typical party fare, to The Spokesman-Review’s reader food panel.
The winner was possibly one of the most sophisticated foods we’ve ever presented to the panel, Boursin spiced cheese from France. The aroma was intense, the spices natural, the flavor rich - which it had better be, at more than $20 (and upwards of 200 fat grams) per pound.
Alouette’s spread, which one taster termed “a stepchild of the elegant Boursin” and another less delicately deemed “a Boursin wanna-be,” was a respectable runner-up at less than half the price.
But the quality dropped off considerably with a pair of lower-fat, cream-cheese-based offerings from Kraft and Alpine Lace. At least the thicker Kraft spread, unlike Alpine Lace, didn’t try to imitate the tonier products in packaging and price.
To round out our party tray, we picked three samples from among a wide array of summer sausages on the market (so named, we’ve learned, because they’re designed to be dry enough to require no refrigeration during warm weather).
This time, money couldn’t buy culinary love, with Hormel’s moderately-priced Old Smokehouse the clear favorite. The most expensive of the three, the stringier all-beef stick from Old Wisconsin, barely edged the rubbery John Morrell Cervelat.
Cervelat, we’ve also learned, comes from the Latin word for “brains” - which, if you have any, you’ll be careful how much summer sausage you consume this Christmas season.
Boursin Spiced Gournay Cheese With Garlic and Fine Herbs
Price: $6.95 for 5.2 ounces.
Nutrition: 120 calories (92 percent fat calories); 180 milligrams sodium in 2 tablespoons.
Price: ****
Value: **
Comments: “Good, smooth.” - Larry Kelly
“Very nicely seasoned, buttery consistency. At this price, no wonder we want more!” - Sandy Davidson
Alouette Gourmet Spreadable Cheese, Garlic et Herbes
Price: $3.25 for 6.5 ounces.
Nutrition: 70 calories (86 percent fat calories); 135 milligrams sodium in 2 tablespoons.
Price: ***
Value: ***
Comments: “This whipped, airy substance needs a little bit more flavor.” - Beth Kowal
“Smooth texture, tangy flavor.” - Beverly Smick
Kraft Philly Light Cream Cheese, Roasted Garlic
Price: $1.88 for 8 ounces.
Nutrition: 70 calories (64 percent fat calories), 180 milligrams sodium in 2 tablespooons.
Taste: **
Value: ****
Comments: “Not so good. Had a frosting-type consistency. If it was any creamier, it would be a chip dip.” - Lee Smick
“Very strong flavor, almost unpleasant. Worth the money, though.” - Ken Galland
Alpine Lace Reduced-Fat Cream Cheese, Roasted Garlic & Herbs
Price: $3.35 for 6.5 ounces.
Nutrition: 60 calories (58 percent fat calories); 190 milligrams sodium in 2 tablespoons.
Price: **
Value: *
Comments: “Cheese? No - some slimy substance filled with salt and grass clippings.” - Karen Buck
“Who stole the flavor? Maybe after the third or fourth glass of wine this would actually sort of taste like cheese.” - Helen Span
Hormel Old Smokehouse Summer Sausage
Price: $2.79 for 16 ounces.
Nutrition: 200 calories (80 percent fat calories); 970 milligrams sodium in 2 ounces.
Price: ****
Value: ****
Comments: “Very smoky - seems meatier than most summer sausages, less fat content.” - Madilyn Hutchison Foco
“A wonderfully smooth texture. Not too tough or stringy. It’s almost too soft, and it takes a limited amount of chews.” - Beth Kowal
Old Wisconsin Beef Summer Sausage
Price: $4.29 for 20 ounces.
Nutrition: 220 calories (77 percent fat calories); 570 milligrams sodium in 2 ounces.
Price: **
Value: *
Comments: “Almost squishy texture. Greasy. Very bland, nearly tasteless. I wouldn’t buy this.” - Jeannie Coffey
“Chewy, doesn’t seem to break down even after extreme chewing! Sausage-flavored bubble gum with added fat … what a concept!” - Jan Robison
John Morrell Cervelat (Summer Sausage)
Price: $2.69 for 16 ounces.
Nutrition: 160 calories (75 percent fat calories); 580 milligrams sodium in 2 ounces.
Price: **
Value: **
Comments: “Big chunks of white fat offset by no taste. Try another!” - Jim McGinty
“Buy Spam. It costs less and tastes as good.” - Bob Bates
, DataTimes MEMO: Products sampled by The Spokesman-Review’s reader food panel are prepared according to package directions. Panelists are not aware of a product’s brand name or price until after they have tasted it. Products are rated from one to five stars for taste and for value, based on quality compared to price.