Custards Wonderful As Entree, Too

Warm custard is the culinary equivalent of a favorite blanket. It’s instantly comforting and reassuring. The shimmering, silken texture is soothing and the creamy taste so inviting.

It’s a shame custard is usually served as a dessert. Those same qualities that make it such a welcome treat are just as delightful in an entree.

Restaurant chefs are catching on, serving custard appetizers, side dishes and main courses, and you can, too. It’s no more difficult to make a savory custard than it is to make a sweet one.

The basic formula of one egg to about 1/2 cup liquid is the same. Instead of adding sugar, use salt, pepper and herbs. If you stopped there, you’d have a perfectly acceptable dish, but add leeks and scallops and the result is a delicate and luxurious custard.

When working with scallops or other ingredients that give off liquid, such as mushrooms, make sure to use a little flour in the recipe as a binder.

Some recipes call for placing a custard inside a water bath to maintain an even, gentle heat. To do so, place the custard dish inside a slightly larger one. Add enough hot water to the outside dish until it comes halfway up the sides of the custard. Place the two dishes in the oven together. You can use a water bath for the following Scallop-Leek Custard recipe, but it isn’t essential.

Finally, fight the urge to spoon into a custard as soon as it comes from the oven. If you do, it will be watery and relatively tasteless. It needs a little time to settle and develop its full flavor.

Scallop-Leek Custard

4 teaspoons butter

1 large or 2 small leeks, white parts only, trimmed and chopped (to yield 1 cup)

2/3 cup milk

1/2 cup half-and-half

2 eggs

1/2 pound bay scallops

1 tablespoon flour

1/2 teaspoon crushed, dried tarragon

1/2 teaspoon salt or to taste

Freshly ground white pepper

1/2 cup bread cubes, about 1/4 inch in diameter

Heat 2 teaspoons butter in small skillet. Add leeks and saute over medium-low heat until tender and transparent, about 10 minutes. Set aside to cool.

Meanwhile, heat together milk and half-and-half in small pan. Beat eggs in heatproof bowl. Pour a little hot milk into eggs and beat to mix and warm. Pour egg mixture into pan with remainder of milk mixture and cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until slightly thickened, about 10 minutes. Spoon leeks into mixture. Set aside.

Pat scallops dry. Dust in flour seasoned with tarragon, salt and pepper to taste.

Melt remaining 2 teaspoons butter in skillet used for leeks. Add scallops and saute over medium heat, turning frequently, until firm and white and liquid from scallops evaporates, about 5 minutes. Spoon scallops and any leftover flour mixture into egg/milk mixture. Stir well.

Pour custard into 1-quart glass baking dish. Sprinkle with bread cubes. Bake at 325 degrees until firm and knife inserted near center comes out clean, 45 to 55 minutes. Remove from oven. Let stand 5 to 10 minutes before serving.

Yield: 2 servings.

Nutrition information per serving: 492 calories, 23 grams fat (42 percent fat calories), 36 grams carbohydrate, 34 grams protein, 296 milligrams cholesterol, 1,209 milligrams sodium.