Reds With Charm

It seems like just yesterday that I remembered to write 1998 — instead of 1997 — when writing checks. Now some wines from last fall’s harvest already are trickling into the stores.

One of the best finds among these very new releases is the current crop of French beaujolais. These delightfully drinkable reds are made to be consumed young, unlike their pricier, more serious cousins from the Burgundy region. Some of those sought-after pinot noirs sell for up to $3,000 a bottle (a ‘90 Romanee Conti listed in a recent Wine Club Newsletter).

I’ll never be able to swing that with what they pay lowly wine columnists, so I’m banking on beaujolais that goes for $10-$15.

I recently sampled a few lovely ‘97s from famed producer Georges Duboeuf’s “cru” collection. These wines come from various appellations throughout the Beaujolais region, on the southern end of Burgundy. Some of the more famous crus include Fleurie, Morgon, Moulin-a-Vent and Brouilly.

All beaujolais are made with the gamay grape, but each cru has its own personality based on the different growing conditions.

When the fruit is harvested, it’s often not crushed but rather undergoes a process known as carbonic maceration. Fruit is loaded into tanks, and the sheer weight of the grapes gently crushes the stuff on the bottom. Fermentation starts, kicking up the temperature in the tank, and soon each little berry is hard at work converting sugar into alcohol.

That eventually makes for a wine with light tannins and lush fruity flavors. The barely fermented wine is bottled and launched shortly after harvest as beaujolais nouveau.

Most of the beaujolais that reaches the shelves in this part of the world is classified as Beaujolais Villages, a lighter-weight wine made with grapes from 39 villages in the northern part of the region. It’s perfectly pleasant but not as meaty as the higher-quality crus.

I sipped a Morgon alongside a very nice Oregon pinot (the ‘96 “Three Vineyard” from Chehalem). The beaujolais was remarkably similar, with its black cherry appeal backed up by a light tannin edge. The main difference was in price, with the pinot ringing in several bucks higher than the $11 beaujolais.

One of the nicest surprises I’ve tried in a long time was a velvety, berry-scented Regnie (pronounced “ray-nyay”). This tiny area has been able to use the cru designation only since 1988, but it has made quite an impression with wine that combines strength mellowed with vibrant fruit. It’s as smooth as any pickup line. Hubba hubba.

The Brouilly (pronounced broo-yee) was a shade more subtle, with robust berry and plum flavors that are reflected in the wine’s deep ruby color.

Unfortunately, Duboeuf’s Regnie and Brouilly, distinguished by their gorgeous flower labels, aren’t available in this area. But ask your favorite wine merchant about special-ordering them. I found the ‘97 Morgon at Huckleberry’s for $11.

Serve beaujolais just slightly chilled. It goes great with all sorts of food, including just about anything off the grill. It’s a dandy red for summer sipping.

Happy birthday, Latah Creek

One of Spokane’s most popular wineries is celebrating its 15th year in business.

The family-owned Latah Creek has a solid reputation for its diverse lineup but is especially well-respected for its chardonnay and merlot. Across the board, the wines represent a good value.

Check out the ‘96 reserve chardonnay, which came out on top at a blind tasting the winery put on earlier this summer. It was chosen as a favorite over much more famous and far pricier competition. You can find it only at the winery, where it sells for $16.

Vintner Mike Conway has no grand plans for the future.

“We just hope the next 15 years will be as successful as the first 15,” he said. “We’ve made a tremendous number of friends and had lots of fun in this business.”

I’ll drink to that.

Working holiday

Would you pay $950 for two cases of wine? That you made yourself?

OK, it’s not quite that simple.

Here’s the deal: A couple of historic bed and breakfasts in California’s Alexander Valley are offering winemaker wannabes the opportunity to see the process through, from the vineyard to the bottle.

It’s a two-part program, meeting first in the fall and then reuniting the following spring to fill your personalized bottles.

During the harvest portion in mid-September, participants pick their own grapes early one morning and bring them to a winery for the crush. Next May, that fermented grape juice will be yours to take home and brag to your friends about.

“Pick and Press” packages include four nights lodging at the Hope-Merrill House or the Hope-Bosworth House in Geyserville and most meals. For information on this educational getaway, call (800) 825-4233.