Ordinary eggs get a little help from some Russian dressing

Eggs for Easter – it’s a tradition with variations beyond number. But sometimes, going back to the beginning and leaving aside colored candy and chocolate imitations, the best egg is – an egg. So here’s a suggestion from master chef Thomas Keller, starting with your basic hard-boiled egg, adding a simple dressing.

“How good eggs are – they’re ordinary and surprising at the same time,” Keller writes in his latest cookbook, “Bouchon” (Artisan, 2004, $50).

“For me, part of the pleasure of this preparation is that it’s reminiscent of the 1970s’ American version of Continental cuisine, for which I have an abiding nostalgia.”

Hard-cooked Eggs in Russian Dressing (Oeufs a la Russe)

For the sauce:

1 cup mayonnaise

3 tablespoons bottled chili sauce

1 tablespoon minced shallots

1 tablespoon minced Italian parsley

2 teaspoons minced chives

1 tablespoon minced green olives

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Fresh lemon juice to taste

6 hard-cooked large eggs

To make the sauce: Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl, mixing well. Cover and refrigerate for a few hours to allow the flavors to develop.

To serve: Cut the hard-cooked eggs lengthwise in half and place them cut side down on a serving platter. Spoon the sauce generously over the eggs.

Yield: 12 egg halves

Approximate nutrition per serving: 178 calories, 17 grams fat, (3.5 grams saturated, 89 percent fat calories,) 3 grams protein, 1.5 grams carbohydrate, 119 milligrams cholesterol, less than 1 gram dietary fiber, 260 milligrams sodium.