Downtown’s Barrelhouse Pizzeria aims to ‘elevate the pizza experience’
When Matt Lazarus and Jennifer Hansen purchased Barrelhouse Pub & Pizza in Cheney in 2024, they brought plenty of business experience to the table.
Hansen had owned a massage school in Coeur d’ Alene and a couple of spas, and Lazarus had owned the Mountain Café at Silver Mountain.
The Cheney venue, located just blocks from the Eastern Washington University campus, was bustling, and the couple quickly learned the ins and outs of the pizza biz.
“We didn’t change anything,” Lazarus said.
With the venue thriving, they were ready for a different challenge.
“Jen’s always looking for something new,” he said.
When she discovered the site of the former Zona Blanca on Howard Street was available, they jumped at the chance for a second location – this time with a new menu.
“It’s a super cool space, with a big patio and outdoor bar,” Lazarus said.
A colorful mural in the patio featured a mermaid holding oysters in keeping with the ceviche theme of the prior occupant.
“We found the original artist and had the oysters replaced with tomatoes.”
Lazarus and Hansen added their stamp to the interior as well. The vibe is industrial cozy. A brick oven that bakes the tasty pies serves as the centerpiece. Whiskey barrels from Dry Fly Distilling serve as table bases, and Lazarus even used one to create an eight-tap beer dispenser.
“People really dig the space,” he said.
They also dig the menu crafted by Lazarus and chef Julia Robinson. Two styles of pizza are its heart: Detroit and Neo-Neapolitan.
Delighted diners are diving into the Barrelhouse version of Detroit pizza. This style emerged in the Motor City after World War II. Metal was in short supply, and creative chefs baked their dough in steel parts pans from an auto plant.
Lazarus said at Barrelhouse they use a cheddar/mozzarella blend around the edges of the 8 -by -10-inch pies, and it caramelizes while baking.
“The crust is similar to focaccia,” he explained.
The Detroit Philly featuring tri-tip, red pepper, roasted red pepper, red onion, caramelized onion and garlic cream sauce is proving popular. But the best-selling item so far is the Detroit Classic Combo, which includes the Barrelhouse cheese blend, pepperoni, sausage, mushrooms and olives topped with Detroit sauc
Fresh is the owners’ mantra. From breads to pizza dough to roasted meats
“Our ingredients are made in-house,” Hansen said. “Sausage, sauces, even our pesto.”
That pesto shines on the Barrelhouse Margherita pie. The 12-inch thinner Neapolitan crust serves as the base for the pesto, red sauce, slices of mozzarella, fresh garlic and fresh basil.
House-roasted tri-tip stars in the delicious tri-tip chimichurri Neapolitan pizza. Garlic and olive oil are topped with tri-tip, mozzarella, red onion and drizzled with chimichurri. The rich flavor of the beef pairs perfectly with the vibrant sauce.
You can also savor the tri-tip in a sandwich served with a choice of pasta or house salads.
Four fresh salads feature house-made dressings.
“Chef Julia came up with the Caesar dressing recipe,” Lazarus said.
A selection of appetizers includes a nod to the Cheney location. Barrel Bites made from Neapolitan dough are baked and tossed in garlic oil and Parmesan cheese, then served with marinara and ranch for dipping.
“Cheney gave us the confidence to do this,” Lazarus said. “They have a great staff.”
The full bar includes a cocktail list that offers pizza-pairing suggestions. For example, the Vanilla Maple Old-Fashioned offers a nice sip with the Detroit meatball pizza, and the Lovely Lemonade (Empress gin, blue Curacao and lemonade) pairs well with the Neapolitan funghi and sausage pie.
Since its November opening, Barrelhouse Pizzeria has garnered an ever-growing loyal following.
“Jen and I are both real food snobs – this is a passion project,” Lazarus said. “People have been pretty happy with what we’re doing.”
The convenient location and inviting atmosphere make it a great spot for lunch, happy hour or date night.
“It’s comfortable, casual, but a little higher-end than a pizza joint,” Hansen said. “We try to elevate the pizza experience.”
Contact Cindy Hval at dchval@juno.com.