Foil’s spoils
People who ask what chefs cook at home are often disappointed. They don’t want to hear, “Oh I fried up a steak, zapped a potato and made a salad.” They expect a hand waved in the air and something like: “Oh, nothing much. Pine Nut-Crusted Rack of Lamb With Thai Basil Foam, Truffle-Scented Gnocchi With Wild Mushroom Ragout, Twenty-Vegetable Brunoise, a Triple-Chocolate Souffle … you know, the usual.”
Those things are a breeze to prepare when you have a staff of 10 to do the grunt work and scrub the pots. When chefs cook at home, we keep things simple and make them fast. We keep our eyes on the same prize as other people: the sofa.
When cooking for one or two, for example, we know that good things come from foil packets. They are especially useful for hurried city-singletons like me; my small apartment has no grill and a tiny kitchen that features a ventless, electric range-oven combo with a noisy fan that turns cooking vapors into facials. Such limitations require either ingenuity or a large collection of home-delivery menus. (As a chef, I possess both of those things.)
Foil packets are interpretations of paper papillotes and commercial, heat-resistant nylon baking bags. The method involved, basically a form of oven-braising, has several advantages: It creates an intensely savory product with little prep time and no messy cleanup. Close wrapping with tight seals allows flavor to cycle back into the contents of the packets instead of evaporating.
I started experimenting with this technique when I had a hankering for barbecued ribs. I needed to figure out how to make them in my pitiful kitchen and still approximate the carbon-crusty smokiness that a grill does. In my first attempt, I added water because I was not sure there would be enough liquid to braise the ribs. I discovered that there was sufficient water in the meat and ketchup to do the job, and that it was better to add water to the sauce at the end of the process because the flavor was more intense.
Broiling the meat after the packets were opened was crucial; the sugar in the ketchup caramelized and combined with the rub to make a charred crust on top of the ribs. Chicken thighs and wings barbecued just as nicely. A chipotle hot pepper sauce imbued the pork and chicken with a pleasant smoky quality. I imagine using a few drops of bottled hickory-smoke flavoring would have that effect, but I do not care for the chemical aftertaste of those products.
It took only a few minutes to assemble the packet. The only dishes to clean were a plate, a mixing bowl and a Pyrex measuring cup. I ate all the ribs, but the serving was ample for two.
Giddy with success, I attempted other dishes. Moroccan vegetable tagines and salmon packets turned out nicely, but Rack of Lamb with Basil Foam and Chocolate Souffle failed. Which just goes to show that not every craving can be satisfied by reaching for the foil.
Each of the main-dish recipes below can be made as two separate packets, using one 12-inch-long sheet of aluminum foil for the bottom and one 11-inch sheet for the top. I used regular aluminum foil, but heavy-duty is more reliable. It is important that the packets remain completely sealed; take extra care to keep any ingredients from poking through the packets.
The packets can be assembled for baking and refrigerated up to 1 day in advance.
A word about the rub recipes: Because I use them so often as quick flavor injections for fast dishes, I make extra amounts of these rubs. They’ll keep, stored in airtight containers, for up to 1 month.
Moroccan Vegetable Tagine
This tagine, with its rich, deep red sauce, is set off nicely atop a mound of couscous and garnished with chopped scallions. Make sure the leek is washed and thoroughly free of grit. Serve the tagine with Easy Breezy Couscous (recipe follows).
1 medium leek, halved lengthwise, cut into 1-inch squares
1 medium red pepper, seeded and cut into 1-inch squares
1 small zucchini, cut into 1-inch cubes
1 small yellow squash, cut into 1-inch cubes
1 carrot, peeled, cut into 1-inch cubes and parboiled (see note) for 3 minutes
1 small sweet potato, peeled, cut into 1-inch cubes and parboiled for 3 minutes
1 cup (4 ounces) sugar snap peas
2 garlic cloves, smashed
1 bay leaf
2 tablespoons finely chopped, cleaned cilantro stems
1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano
1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes (11/2 cups)
1 cup chick peas, drained (15-ounce can)
2 tablespoons Moroccan Rub (recipe follows)
Chopped scallions, for garnish (optional)
Set an oven rack on the middle level and preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
In a large bowl, combine the ingredients.
Place a 22-inch-long piece of aluminum foil on the work surface. Line the vegetables down the center, leaving a 4-inch border on each end and a 2-inch border on each side. Place a 24-inch-long piece of foil on the top and mold it over the packet ingredients. Starting with one of the long sides, fold the bottom foil edge a half-inch over the top foil edge and seal firmly using your index finger. Make another 1/2-inch fold and seal firmly. Repeat until you reach the enclosed mound. Seal the other long side, and then seal the ends in the same fashion, making the packet as airtight as possible.
Place on a large rimmed baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes. (The packet will puff up during baking.) Transfer to a work surface and, being careful to avoid the escaping steam, use scissors to open a rectangle in the top of the packet. Discard the bay leaf and the packet foil. Spoon the vegetables and the sauce over the Easy Breezy Couscous and garnish with chopped scallions, if desired. Serve hot or at room temperature.
Note: Parboiling is partially cooking food by briefly boiling it in water. The process ensures that multiple ingredients of different densities will complete cooking at the same time.
Yield: 2 generous servings
Approximate nutrition per serving: 451 calories, 3 grams fat (no saturated fat, 6 percent fat calories), 15 grams protein, 101 grams carbohydrate, no cholesterol, 21 grams dietary fiber, 849 milligrams sodium.
Moroccan Rub
1 tablespoon Barbecue Rub (recipe follows)
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
Combine the ingredients in a small bowl, or store in a resealable plastic bag for up to 1 month.
Yield: 2 generous servings
Approximate nutrition per serving: 27 calories, 1 gram fat (no saturated fat, 33 percent fat calories), 1 gram protein, 6 grams carbohydrates, no cholesterol, 2 grams dietary fiber, 708 milligrams sodium.
Easy, Breezy Couscous
Half a cup of toasted pine nuts and 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley or cilantro are optional but excellent additions.
1 cup low-sodium chicken broth
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 cup medium quick-cooking couscous
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup pine nuts (optional)
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley or cilantro (optional)
Combine the broth, olive oil and turmeric in a 1-quart Pyrex bowl. Microwave the liquid on high uncovered and bring to a boil (2 to 3 minutes). Remove carefully, stir in the couscous and cover tightly with plastic wrap for 5 minutes.
Yield: 2 servings
Approximate nutrition per serving: 426 calories, 8 grams fat (2 grams saturated, 14 grams protein, 72 grams carbohydrates, 8 grams fat, 3 milligrams cholesterol, 2 grams saturated fat, 219 milligrams sodium, 5 grams dietary fiber.
Barbecue Spare Ribs, Chicken Thighs or Chicken Wings
Serve this in-house version of barbecue with cornbread and coleslaw or a green salad.
3/4 cup thick ketchup, such as Heinz
3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon chipotle-flavored hot pepper sauce, such as Tabasco, or more to taste
1 (2-pound) slab baby back ribs, rubbed on both sides with a total of 2 tablespoons Barbecue Rub (recipe follows)
OR
4 large bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs, rubbed on both sides with a total of 2 tablespoons Barbecue Rub (recipe follows)
OR
12 chicken wings, joints separated, tips discarded, rubbed on both sides with a total of 2 tablespoons Barbecue Rub (recipe follows)
1/4 cup water
Set an oven rack on the middle level and preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
In a large bowl, combine 1/2 cup of the ketchup, the Worcestershire sauce and chipotle-flavored hot pepper sauce and toss with the barbecue-rubbed ribs or thighs or wings. Place a 22-inch piece of aluminum foil on a work surface. Line the ribs (skin side down), thighs (skin side up), or wings (skin side up) down the center, leaving a 4-inch border on each end and 2-inch borders on the sides. Place a 24-inch-long piece of foil on the top and mold it over the packet ingredients. Starting with one of the long sides, fold the bottom foil edge 1/2 inch over the top foil edge and seal firmly using your index finger. Make another 1/2-inch fold and seal firmly. Repeat until you reach the enclosed mound. Seal the other long side. Seal the ends in the same fashion. Place on a rimmed baking sheet and bake at one of the following times:
“ 70 minutes for the pork.
“ 40 minutes for the thighs.
“ 30 minutes for the wings.
(The packet will puff up.) Transfer to a work surface and, being careful to avoid the escaping steam, use scissors to open a larger rectangle in the top of the packet. Return the baking sheet to the middle rack and broil for 10 to 15 minutes, until the meat has a nicely browned crust.
Transfer the packets to a work surface. (Cut the ribs, if using, into separate pieces.) Form a little pouring “lip” along the long side of the packet that is away from you. Carefully pick up the foil packet by the sides (it should be cool enough to handle; otherwise, use mitts) and slowly drain off just the orange-colored fat. Pour the remaining sauce into a 2-cup glass measuring cup and discard any remaining fat. (There should be about 1/2 cup of sauce.) Add the water and the remaining 1/4 cup of ketchup, stir and microwave for 1 minute on high. Taste for seasonings and add more chipotle-flavored hot pepper sauce, if desired, and mix well to combine. Spoon the sauce over the meat or serve on the side.
Yield: 2 generous servings
Approximate nutrition per serving (for spare ribs): 548 calories, 21 grams fat (7 grams saturated, 34 percent fat calories), 59 grams protein, 27 grams carbohydrate, 126 milligrams cholesterol, 1 gram dietary fiber, 952 milligrams sodium.
Barbecue Rub
4 teaspoons sweet paprika
1 tablespoon chili powder
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper or ground chipotle powder
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Combine the ingredients in a small bowl, or store in a resealable plastic bag for up to 1 month.
Yield: 2 servings
Approximate nutrition per serving: 27 calories, 1 gram fat (no saturated fat, 33 percent fat calories), 1 gram protein, 5 gram carbohydrate, no cholesterol, 2 grams dietary fiber, 1,204 milligrams sodium.
Jiffy Papillote of Salmon, Vegetables and Herbs
What looks like too many vegetables will cook down to just the right amount to serve with the tender salmon fillets. Be sure to use fresh herbs.
For the herb drizzle:
1 tablespoon chopped rosemary
1 tablespoon basil, oregano or tarragon
1 tablespoon thyme
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 scallions, both white and light-green parts, chopped
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (from 1 lemon)
For the packet:
2 medium red bliss potatoes, 1/4-inch-thick slices, parboiled 5 minutes
1 red bell pepper, seeded, cored and cut into julienne (very thin strips)
1 carrot, peeled and cut into julienne
1 zucchini, cut into julienne
1 yellow squash, cut into julienne
1 medium-size leek (dark green tops removed), cleaned of sand and julienned
One 12-ounce skinless salmon fillet, sliced on the bias (like flank steak) into 8-inch-wide, 1/2-inch thick slices (any remaining pin bones should be removed)
1 large lemon, sliced into eight 1/4-inch slices
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into eighths
Chopped flat-leaf parsley (optional)
Set an oven rack on the middle level and preheat oven to 400 degrees.
For the herb drizzle: Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl. Set aside.
For the packet: In a small bowl, toss the parboiled potatoes with 1 tablespoon of the herb drizzle. Set aside.
In a large bowl, toss the pieces of bell pepper, carrot, zucchini, squash and leek with two tablespoons of the herb drizzle. Set aside,
Place a 22-inch-long piece of aluminum foil on the counter. Line overlapping drizzled potato slices down the center, leaving a 4-inch border on each end and 2-inch borders on the sides. Top with remaining vegetables. Lay salmon slices over the julienned vegetables to cover them (from long side to long side of foil). The salmon slices should not quite touch each other. Spoon the remaining drizzle over the salmon slices. Place one lemon slice on top of each salmon slice. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste and dot each salmon slice with one bit of butter. Place a 24-inch piece of foil on the top and mold it over the packet ingredients. Starting with one of the long sides, fold the bottom foil edge a half-inch over the top foil edge and seal firmly with index finger. Make another 1/2-inch fold and seal firmly. Repeat until you reach the enclosed mound. Seal the other long side. Seal the ends in the same fashion. Place on a rimmed baking sheet pan and bake for 10 minutes. (The packet will puff up during baking.)
Transfer to a work surface and, being careful to avoid the escaping steam, use scissors to open a rectangle in the top of the packet. Carefully transfer the packet onto a plate, and, using a spatula, ease its contents onto the plate while pulling the foil away. Garnish with chopped parsley, if desired. Serve immediately.
Yield: 2 servings
Approximate nutrition per serving: 692 calories, 26 grams fat (10 grams saturated, 34 percent fat calories), 44 grams protein, 82 grams carbohydrate, 126 milligrams cholesterol, 18 grams dietary fiber, 1,432 milligrams sodium.