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Offer assortment of wines to set off holiday meal

Paul Gregutt Correspondent

Planning a big gathering for your Thanksgiving meal? Why not take full advantage of the sheer numbers by setting out a wide variety of interesting wines. Let folks mix and match themselves – I promise you they’ll have fun.

Here are recommendations that cover all aspects of the meal and won’t break the bank.

Bubbly

Sparkling wines always start things off well. Go with cava from Spain, Prosecco from Italy, or a Domaine Ste. Michelle Blanc de Noirs from right here at home. Don’t spend more than $10.

Beaujolais Nouveau

These brand new wines from the just-concluded vintage jet in from the south of France right before Thanksgiving. They’re grapey, simple and lots of fun. Duboeuf ($9) is the best known producer. You might also ask your wine seller if he/she has brought in any nouveau from a smaller, less well-known property.

Chardonnay

Somebody at the table will always want to drink chardonnay and nothing else will do. Fusée 2005 Chardonnay ($5) delivers plenty of creamy pear and vanilla flavors.

Pinot Grigio

It’s very hip to sip pinot gris/grigio; but tough to find flavor at a budget price. Go with the 2005 from Papio ($6), a clever blend that includes a bit of malvasia and viognier for added spice.

Zinfandel

If there is a tried-and-true all-American grape it’s zinfandel. Most are thick, jammy, high in alcohol and high in price, but the new 2005 release from Woodbridge ($6) is done in a moderate, food-friendly style.

Cabernet/Merlot

The hunt for cheap merlot turns up a lot of watery plonk, but Pine & Post does a much better than average job with the grape, and also makes a respectable Pine & Post 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon. Both sell for $5.

Pinot Noir

Budget pinot noir? You’ve got to be kidding! No grape is tougher to do well and inexpensively. But Castle Rock’s 2005 Pinot Noir ($10), made from Columbia Valley fruit, comes through with very pretty raspberry and cherry candy flavors.

Red Blend

For maximum red wine power, grab the Sawtooth 2004 Skyline Red ($9), a mutt blend from Idaho. Dark, spicy, toasty, smoky and loaded with licorice, clove and espresso, it will cure what ails ya!

Dessert

Many Washington wineries make a few bottles of a Port-style wine, often sold only at the tasting room. Check out your favorite local producers and see what’s on the shelf; or try the latest from Thurston Wolfe or Hinzerling.