Bold flavor of arugula complements many foods

Arugula’s peppery flavor melds well with sweet salad leaves, bold vinegars and rich oils. Also known as rocket, it’s as comfortable on a salad plate as it is tucked into a sandwich or blended into a sauce.

Look for: Arugula leaves are spring green and elongated, with rounded serration along the perimeter. Lobes sprout along a well-defined, light-colored stem an inch to 10 inches long. There is a slight ruffle to large leaves, which are also thicker and more pungent than smaller leaves. Arugula has sharp flavor tinged with black-pepper notes. Its flavor comes out lightly in the scent.

Arugula is sold in bunches, bags or bulk. The bunched leaves are more mature and bolder in flavor. Bulk leaves are smaller – too tender to be bunched – but nonetheless bright tasting. You can find bunched arugula most often in refrigerated and misted produce sections. Bulk arugula should be barely moist and will be displayed away from direct water spray.

Examine the periphery of the leaves for dark decay or yellowish tinge, which indicates the flavor will be dank and musty. Pass also on limp, wrinkled or withered leaves.

I find it difficult to judge the quality of commercially bagged arugula because the labeling on the bag obscures the product inside. So-called “use by” dates are almost meaningless – they tell no story about the conditions the product experienced on its way to market. Your best bet on judging any bagged salad item is to look for clues in the rest of the produce department. If there is muck, grime and lack of attention to detail elsewhere, can you believe the bagged product received any better treatment?

To store: Remove any twist tie holding the bunch together and bag the leaves loosely in plastic in the crisper where they’ll hold for four to five days. If the bunch is very wet, and you have time, rinse the grit off the leaves, gently shake the water off them and bag them loosely. You can keep bulk arugula for up to three days by packing it loosely in a plastic bag and tying a knot in the bag at both ends to create an air bubble. This will help prevent the leaves from matting or compressing in a crowded fridge.

When: You can find local product in stores and farmers markets from early spring to late fall. Crops from California and the Southwest keep arugula readily available throughout the winter.

Basic preparation: Rinse the leaves well to remove any grit. Prepare for a salad up to three hours in advance of serving. Cool the salad bowl before placing the leaves into it if you make your salad ahead. Drape the undressed leaves with damp paper towels and hold the bowl in the fridge. Dress the leaves and toss just before serving.

Arugula’s bold flavor gives safe harbor to other big flavors that might be less palatable in another context. It partners well with beets, walnuts, filberts, feta or chevre. You can pull out all the stops when arugula is at hand.

Arugula Salad with Fried Gorgonzola

From “Everyday Pasta” by Giada De Laurentiis.

You can prepare and chill the cheese balls a day in advance so they are very firm before you fry them. To test the temperature of your oil, drop a small piece of bread into the pot. If it sinks to the bottom, the oil is not hot enough. If it rises slowly to the top and turns golden brown, it’s just right. To turn this into a main-dish salad, top it with chunks of rotisserie chicken.

7 ounces gorgonzola cheese

1 large egg

3/4 cup dried bread crumbs

1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest

3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 garlic clove, minced

1/3 cup olive oil, plus more for deep-frying

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 10-ounce bags of arugula, coarsely torn (about 12 cups)

Blend the gorgonzola cheese in a food processor until smooth and creamy, scraping down the sides of the bowl occasionally. Break the egg into a shallow dish and beat lightly to blend. Put the bread crumbs in a second shallow dish. Using 1 rounded teaspoon of cheese for each, form the cheese into 18 1-inch balls. Working in batches, coat the balls with the beaten egg, then with the bread crumbs. Arrange the balls on a small baking sheet. Cover and refrigerate until cold, at least 1 hour or overnight.

Whisk the lemon zest, lemon juice and garlic in a medium bowl to blend. Gradually whisk in the 1/3 cup of oil. Season the dressing to taste with salt and pepper; set aside.

Heat 2 inches of oil in a small, heavy saucepan over medium heat. Working in batches, add the balls to the hot oil and fry just until golden brown, about 20 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the fried balls to paper towels to drain.

Toss the arugula in a large bowl with enough dressing to coat the leaves. Season the salad to taste with salt and pepper. Mound the salad on plates and top each serving with a few of the hot fried gorgonzola balls. Serve immediately.

Yield: Six servings

Approximate nutrition per serving: 356 calories, 30 grams fat (9 saturated, 73 percent fat calories), 11 grams protein, 13 grams carbohydrate, 1 gram dietary fiber, 81 milligrams cholesterol, 860 milligrams sodium.

Arugula Salsa Verde

From “Joanne Weir’s More Cooking in the Wine Country”

This bold-flavored Italian sauce is traditionally made with parsley. Substituting some of the parsley with arugula adds a peppery, nutty quality. It’s quick to make, but be sure to serve it within an hour before the greens lose their color. Use it on just about anything, from chicken and fish to veal, pork chops and steak.

1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh arugula

1/4 cup chopped fresh Italian (flat-leaf) parsley

3 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano

3 tablespoons capers, rinsed and chopped

1 shallot, minced

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

1 clove garlic, minced

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground pepper

In a bowl, mix together the arugula, parsley, chives, thyme, oregano, capers, shallot, lemon zest, garlic, lemon juice and olive oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Use within 1 hour.

Yield: Six servings

Approximate nutrition per serving: 116 calories, 12 grams fat (1.7 grams saturated, 94 percent fat calories), less than one gram protein, 1.4 grams carbohydrate, less than one gram dietary fiber, no cholesterol, 255 milligrams sodium.