Artist’s Kitchen: Turkey day calls for traditions

Well, here it is, the day before Thanksgiving, so I won’t presume to advise you at this late date, except to say that I sure hope your turkey’s thawed.

I’m sure you’re all set by now, and anyway, everyone’s traditions differ a bit. (My oyster dressing, for instance, is a transgression from the one my wife grew up with.) I’ll just offer up my favorite chicken soup, easily adapted to turkey to help take care of leftovers and a tasty toasted wild rice that takes under five minutes to prepare. Honest.

But first, here’s to the day when so many people prepare their only turkey of the year, me included. I like a smoked one best, for flavor, appearance, and ease of preparation. I salt and pepper it, maybe give it a little spice rub, throw it in the smoker, and take it out 7 or 8 hours later. Gorgeously browned all over, moist (even without brining), and wonderfully flavorful.

It easily beats an oven-roasted bird, but you know what? I probably won’t prepare it that way tomorrow, in favor of a much more laborious oven method instead. Why? Because it just doesn’t seem as much like Thanksgiving without the smell of that roasting fowl permeating the house. I’m not going to stand around my smoker, after all, and it may be cruel and unusual to inflict such punishment on my neighbors, anyway. But I don’t have to limit myself to one turkey a year. Maybe I’ll smoke one for Christmas.

Oh, and that wild rice? Set it out on its own, instead of a dish of nuts, or sprinkle on a salad, mashed potatoes, just about anything. It stores well refrigerated, but don’t bother; it won’t last long enough to matter.

The Whole Chicken Soup

For the stock:

Bouquet garni (see note)

1 whole chicken, 4-5 pounds (or 1 turkey carcass)

Approximately 10 cups water

4 bay leaves

1 teaspoon kosher salt

2 dozen peppercorns

For the soup:

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

2 cups chopped scallions, including usable green tops

2 large carrots, peeled, chopped large

2 large stalks celery, washed, chopped large

1/4 cup white wine

8 cups chicken stock

Bouquet garni, optional

1 tablespoon white vinegar

2 teaspoons sugar

1-2 teaspoons white pepper, to taste

6 ounces egg noodles, cooked separately, drained, set aside

2 cups sliced bok choy

1/2 cup chopped parsley

Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

Place the bouquet garni in the bottom of a large stockpot and plunk a whole chicken, breast down, on top. Add water to cover, 10 cups or so. Turn burner to high, and add bay leaves, several pinches of salt and peppercorns.

Bring to a boil, reduce to a strong simmer, and cook for about an hour. It can go a bit longer, but whenever the chicken floats, it’s done. Set chicken aside in a large bowl or platter to cool, something big enough for the task of tearing it apart. Pick fat from meat and take meat off the bone. Refrigerate. (Reserve half, torn into bite-size pieces, for the soup. Use the rest for other purposes.) Return carcass to pot, and simmer another 2 to 3 hours, straining off foam now and then. Cool, strain out solids, and refrigerate for later defatting. This can be done a day ahead, if you like. Skim off fat before using the stock.

(Variation, with turkey carcass: Follow same directions, simmering at least 3 to 4 hours.)

Add olive oil to a large saucepan, heat on medium-high, and sauté the scallions, carrots and celery, with a pinch or two of salt, about 10 minutes, stirring frequently, until bottom of pan starts to brown. Add wine and deglaze. Add stock and another bouquet garni (if desired, for stronger flavor, but not necessary), along with vinegar, sugar, white pepper and more salt and black pepper, to taste. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer 45 minutes, covered.

Meanwhile, cook and drain the noodles and set aside. In last five minutes, add the noodles, bok choy, parsley and reserved chicken meat and bring back to a strong simmer. Adjust seasonings and serve.

Note: For the bouquet garni wash a handful of fresh thyme, tarragon and rosemary (3 to 4 large sprigs of each will be enough) and tie with kitchen twine.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings as a main course

Approximate nutrition per serving: Unable to calculate due to recipe variables.

Toasted Wild Rice

1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil

1/2 cup wild rice

Seasonings, to taste

Heat oil in a small saucepan on medium high. Add rice and stir continuously until it’s all popped, about 3 minutes. Season to taste with salt, seasoned salt, Old Bay Seasoning, celery salt, pepper, cumin, garlic powder or leftover spice rubs – whatever floats your boat.

Yield: About 1 cup.

Approximate nutrition per 1-ounce serving: 162 calories, 14 grams fat (1 grams saturated, 78 percent fat calories) 1.5 grams protein, 7 grams carbohydrate, no cholesterol, 1 gram dietary fiber, 73 milligrams sodium.