Oven-barbecued brisket is to be savored

It’s not unusual to hear a kid say that all her dad knows how to cook is steak on the grill. That’s because a lot of men really like grilling, and many more really like its end result.

But even the most enthusiastic of grillers may balk at spending 8 to 12 hours tending a fire to cook the Holy Grail of the world of meat: A whole barbecued brisket.

For Father’s Day, consider giving Dad the gift of this savory dish but going by way of the oven.

Using this technique, the constant temperature of 275 degrees, which allows the tough connective tissues of the brisket to gently dissolve, results in ultra-tender meat. Much less attention is needed than with traditional methods.

Finding a whole brisket may be difficult because they usually are cut into the flat and point ends, which are sold separately at most markets. Ask the butcher for a whole, untrimmed brisket that still has the layer of fat (called the deckle) on one side, which will help keep the meat from drying out during cooking.

If there is a movement to break out the grill, try these bacon and Gorgonzola-stuffed cheeseburgers with grilled apple slices are an indulgent treat that require little time and effort.

Sealing the cheese inside the burger ensures most of it won’t end up melting into the fire. The pungent, sweet flavor of Gorgonzola perfectly complements the smoky bacon and sweet apples, but shredded cheddar or Gouda would be delicious, as well.

Smoky, Oven-Barbecued Brisket

This brisket can be sliced and served in the traditional way – piled on slices of soft white bread – or on its own with or without barbecue sauce. Either way, coleslaw is an indispensable side dish.

If you make the brisket a day ahead, wrap it tightly in a couple layers of foil before refrigerating, then reheat the brisket in a 250-degree oven for about an hour, or until it reaches a temperature to your liking.

4 tablespoons mild smoked paprika

2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons kosher salt

2 tablespoons brown sugar

1 tablespoon mild chili powder

2 teaspoons cumin

One 8- to 10-pound whole brisket

12-ounce bottle beer

In a small bowl, whisk together smoked paprika, pepper, salt, brown sugar, chili powder and cumin.

Using your hands, rub the brisket with the spice blend, making sure to cover all surfaces. Wrap the brisket tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 12 to 24 hours.

One hour prior to cooking remove the brisket from the refrigerator and allow it sit at room temperature, leaving the plastic wrap on.

Preheat the oven to 275 degrees. Place the oven rack in the bottom third of the oven.

Unwrap the brisket and place it, fat-side up, in a roasting pan just big enough to hold it. Add the beer to the pan and cover tightly with foil (there should be about 1/2 inch of liquid in the pan, add water if necessary).

Bake for 6 to 10 hours, basting every 2 hours, or until the internal temperature registers 185 degrees on an instant read thermometer, and the meat is fork tender. Trim the fat and slice across the grain to serve.

Yield: 8 to 10 servings

Approximate nutrition per serving: Unable to calculate.

Bacon and Gorgonzola-Stuffed Burgers with Grilled Apples

Serve these burgers on sturdy, toasted buns or, if you like, grilled slices of crusty sourdough bread.

1 pound lean ground beef

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce

1/2 teaspoon salt, plus more to season the apples

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper, plus more to season the apples

1/2 cup crumbled Gorgonzola cheese

4 slices of crispy cooked bacon, crumbled

1 large cooking apple such as a Rome, cored and cut into 1/2-inch slices

1/2 teaspoon canola oil

4 hamburger buns

1 small red onion, thinly sliced

Preheat a gas grill to medium-high or prepare a charcoal grill.

In a large bowl, combine the ground beef, mustard, Worcestershire, salt and pepper. Mix thoroughly but do not overwork. Shape the mixture into eight 1/2-inch-thick patties. Set aside.

Combine Gorgonzola cheese and bacon, then form the mixture into 4 small patties. Set them on top of four of the beef patties, then set the remaining beef patties on top, pressing the edges firmly together to seal. Set aside.

Brush the apple slices with oil and season with salt and pepper.

Grill the burgers until they register 160 degrees on an instant read thermometer and there is no pink inside, about 4 minutes per side.

Meanwhile, on a cooler part of the grill, cook the apple slices until browned and tender. Toast the buns on the edge of the grill.

Assemble the burgers, top with the grilled apples and red onion.

Yield: 4 servings

Approximate nutrition per serving: 487 calories, 26 grams fat (11 grams saturated, 48 percent fat calories), 33 grams protein, 29 grams carbohydrate, 106 milligrams cholesterol, 2 grams dietary fiber, 1,049 milligrams sodium.