The next great grape: Look to the malbec

If you talk to as many winemakers in this state as I do, you can’t help but notice that they all suffer from grape lust. Like the confirmed bachelor or bachelorette seeking the perfect partner, winemakers are always on the hunt for the next great grape. Cabernet franc? Counoise? Petite sirah? Petit verdot?

Here’s my nominee: Malbec.

Yep, the forgotten red Bordeaux grape. Number five after cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cab franc and petit verdot. Like Pete Best (the fifth Beatle), malbec has been all but kicked out of the band in Bordeaux.

But the grape has rallied to become a solo superstar in Argentina, and it’s easy to see why once you start swallowing. At even the lowest price levels, there are Argentine malbecs that bring depth of color, soft tannins and crisp, elegant flavors of tart plum, accented with cut tobacco, to the table.

Not that you can’t spend plenty if you are so inclined. Prices for top Argentine malbecs can hit the triple digits. I don’t recommend them. They tend to be over-ripe, over-extracted and over-oaked .

At more affordable levels, you find wines that more authentically express terroir, often high altitude flavors that emphasize mineral and acid, with clean, thrillingly vivid red fruits.

Outside of Argentina, the best varietal malbecs I’ve tasted in recent years all come from Washington. Though no single winery makes a lot of it, there are many that experiment with a barrel or two. Even better, the wines listed below come from vineyards throughout the state, including the Yakima Valley, Walla Walla Valley, Wahluke Slope and Horse Heaven Hills. Like syrah, malbec is already showing an ability to thrive under a wide range of growing conditions.

Here’s a great idea for your next tasting group event (and if you do not belong to a tasting group, why not start one?). Get together a dozen friends, and collect a dozen malbecs to compare – some from Argentina, some from Washington. Put a ringer in the flight also – a wine that might pass for malbec, such as a cabernet franc or a merlot. It may require a little digging to find the Washington wines, but you can always try calling the wineries directly, or visit their Web sites to see what’s available.

Put the wines in plain brown bags, being careful to remove the entire capsule and swap out the corks. Taste them blind, one by one; and vote your individual favorites and tally up a group vote. Then do the big reveal, to see what you have been drinking, and where the best values are found. See who does the best at picking out the Washington bottles, and if anyone has found the ringer.

In a recent tasting of about 80 Argentine malbecs, these were my top picks in the moderate price ranges, in order of preference. Following that, are some Washington malbecs that showcase this state’s take on the grape.

Catena 2006 Malbec; $22

High altitude grapes; tight and focused, with concentrated raspberry fruit and a finish underscored with rock and hints of black olive.

Tomero 2005 Malbec; $13

The fruit is intense, with a spicy flavor of clove cigarettes. The new oak is evident but not intrusive.

Finca Sophenia 2006 Malbec; $14

Cherry liqueur over rock; this is a powerful, beautifully made wine. Michel Rolland consults.

Goulart 2006 Reserva Malbec; $15

From 91-year-old vines, this has a brambly, zinfandel-ish flavor of strawberry preserves, blackberry and Asian spices.

Conquista 2006 Malbec; $8

Good, plump and plummy, with malbec’s signature tobacco scents, and a finish stuffed with smoke, tar and licorice.

Carlos Basso 2006 Malbec; $15

Strong scents of violets and tobacco; firm, textural tannins; a deep, smoky quality and a finish that features sweet black cherry and rich earthy compost.

Erales 2005 Malbec; $16

Very spicy and peppery; definitely a cooler climate style. It resonates through layers of tart, juicy red fruits, pepper, spicy and green tea.

Martino 2003 Old Vine Malbec; $19

Nicely aged, rounded, plummy. The smoke and tar flavors are integrated; the fruit is expressive and it’s got some high altitude minerality.

Doña Paula 2006 Estate Malbec; $12

The estate bottling is a thick, dark and spicy wine that has some meat on its bones. Classic malbec flavors of smoke, green tea and tobacco.

Alamos 2006 Malbec; $10

Can’t argue with this, for the price. It’s got depth, gravitas, tobacco, black cherry, black olive, black tea. Fades in the finish, but great value.

Washington Malbecs

Listed in order of preference:

Walla Walla Vintners 2005 Malbec; $30

Seven Hills 2006 Malbec; $28

William Church 2006 Malbec; $38

Camaraderie 2005 Crawford Vineyard Malbec; $25

Tagaris 2006 Alice Vineyard Malbec; $30

Ash Hollow 2005 Malbec; $28

Substance 2006 Mb Malbec; $18

Michael Florentino Cellars 2005 Malbec; $38