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Here’s just a taste of what our summer had to offer

Paul Gregutt

It’s been a busy summer. With more than 700 wineries in Washington, more than 400 in Oregon, and at least a couple of heavy hitters in Idaho (notably Coeur d’ Alene Cellars, which consistently does an excellent job with Washington grapes), a lot of wine has crossed my gullet.

Here is a good sampling of the summer’s best varietal, blended and value bottles. The prices listed are suggested retail. In order to find some of these wines, you may need to order directly from the winery website.

Bordeaux (White) Blend – Cadaretta 2010 sbs; $23

The best sbs yet, this riveting and succulent blend – three quarters sauvignon blanc and one quarter sémillon – is a spicy, tangy, racy wine with thrilling flavors across the full spectrum. From nettle to gooseberry, citrus and grapefruit, it has a lush texture and bracing minerality that persist through a long, intense finish.

Bordeaux (Red) Blend – Januik 2008 Reserve Red; $65

Januik’s reserve is mostly cabernet sauvignon, one-fifth merlot, and a splash of cabernet franc. Sourced from the Champoux and Weinbau vineyards, just three barrels were made. The fruit is deeply flavored with black cherry and cassis, and the tannins seem darker, earthier, toastier and overall fuller than any of the other excellent Januik reds. Still young and tight, this promises to blossom over time with floral, earth, barrel and spice highlights.

Cabernet Sauvignon – L’Ecole No 41 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon; $37

Fragrant with smoky red fruits, this tight, young, pure cabernet sauvignon brings a generous mix of raspberry, pomegranate and cherry fruit into play. The firm and supple tannins are folded in seamlessly, with hints of iron, coffee and chocolate.

Chardonnay – Gordon Brothers 2009 Chardonnay; $10

Is there a better value in chardonnay than this? Not if you love wine done in a dark gold, oily, buttery, oaky style. This is not a wine to cellar, but it certainly is a wine to savor. Green and yellow apple fruit manages to cut through all the buttery barrel flavors.

Pinot Blanc – Thistle 2010 Pinot Blanc; $16

A spectacular Oregon pinot blanc, showing ripe citrus, citrus peel, fresh herb, wet rock and a lick of honey, all elegantly and seamlessly wrapped into a subtle and complex whole. Made from organic grapes fermented and aged entirely in stainless steel.

Pinot Gris – King Estate 2009 Domaine Pinot Gris; $25

This intensely fruity, spicy pinot gris could be the archetype for a classic Oregon style. Bold pear fruit is set in citrusy acids and dotted with cinnamon spice. Fresh, crisp, and full-bodied.

Rhône (White) Blend – Olsen Estates 2009 Blanc des Coteaux; $12

This white Rhône-style blend of roussanne, viognier and marsanne is all estate grown, and done with the Olsens’ customary polish and style. Sadly, the winery has been closed, so this is a close-out price and a phenomenal value. The fruit is deep and perfectly ripened, with powerful flavors of tree fruits and tropical highlights.

Riesling – Trust 2010 Riesling; $16

Another fine vintage for this Walla Walla winery, with a pretty, lilting mouthfeel that matches the sweet/tart fruits to scents of melon, citrus and orange peel.

Roussanne – RoxyAnn 2009 Roussanne; $20

Estate grown, brilliant green/gold in color, bursting with luscious fruit flavors of lemon and apricot, lemon zest and more. A subtle streak of bee pollen (like dry honey) adds interest, and a tight, piercing spine with suggestions of citrus oil and pine needle.

Sauvignon Blanc – Barrister 2010 Klipsun Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc; $19

Though best known for its reds, Barrister knocks it out of the park with this gorgeous sauvignon blanc from Klipsun vineyard (Red Mountain) fruit. Lush tree fruits, preserved lemon, Satsuma orange, and highlights of honeysuckle and citrus oil keep the wine moving and changing. It simply fills the mouth with luscious flavor.

Syrah – Coeur d’Alene Cellars 2007 Alder Ridge Vineyard Syrah; $40

This Idaho winery does a good job with the Bordeaux varietals, but consistently scores highest with its syrahs. This single vineyard bottling is deep, dark and dense. It opens with intense aromas of berry, cherry and cassis fruit, then adds compelling barrel scents and flavors – toast, chocolate and coffee – before moving into a lingering, silky finish.

Dessert – ArborBrook Vineyards 2008 Sydney Sémillon; $28/375

Another score for Red Mountain’s Klipsun vineyard, the source for this Sauterne-style dessert wine. Harvested in late November at 38.5 brix, then aged for 18 months in a mix of new and second-year barrels, it is a thoroughly delicious wine. Lush and thick without being fat or tiring, it’s a bottle of butterscotch and candied tropical fruit. Note that the price is for a half bottle, but the wine is rich enough to easily serve four people.

Paul Gregutt is a freelance wine writer based in Washington state. His column appears in The Spokesman-Review on the last Wednesday of each month. He can be reached atpaulgwine@me.com. Visitwww.paulgregutt.com for Gregutt’s daily blog and other commentary.