Tian a simple, beautiful use for extra veggies

There it sat in the middle of the table: a large bowl full of zucchini the size of zeppelins.

The zukes were both the centerpiece as well as the favors at a recent party I went to in a garden in Spokane’s West Central neighborhood. Guests were asked to please, please, take one or three home, please.

And that’s the joke this time of year, isn’t it? Can’t give away garden-grown zucchini fast enough.

Only it isn’t just zucchini. Tomatoes, potatoes, summer squash or any other herb or veggie that cropped up in over-abundance might leave some gardeners wondering what to do with it all.

If you’re wondering that, too, try a tian.

A tian is a colorful way to use up excess vegetables. The classic French dish features thinly sliced vegetables sprinkled with fresh herbs.

Eggplant is traditional. So are zucchini, tomatoes, onions and garlic. But, really, you could use any almost summer or fall vegetable you happen to have on hand or want to use up: turnips, parsnips, sweet potatoes, shallots, rutabagas, beets, bell peppers, leeks.

Emeril Lagasse uses roasted red pepper and yellow squash. Ina Garten, aka the Barefoot Contessa, uses potatoes. Martha Stewart’s tian includes carrots.

Arrange the rounds in rows or a circular pattern, alternating the vegetables for variation in the bottom of a shallow casserole pan. Tuck a large basil leaf in between some of the layers, if you’d like.

That’s what I did. I had an abundance of basil, tomatoes and yellow summer squash. So I used those ingredients – along with onion, garlic, fresh thyme and Gorgonzola. Instead of bread crumbs, I sprinkled on toasted crushed almonds for texture. Toasted pine nuts or crushed toasted walnuts would work, too.

That’s another great thing about a tian. They’re fairly versatile, so it’s easy to improvise. Bread crumbs are optional. So is the cheese. Chevre, Gruyere and Parmesan are commonly used. Pecorino and Parmigiano-Reggiano would also work well.

A splash of white wine, butter, rosemary sprigs, nutmeg and a sprinkling of red chili pepper flakes are other flavor enhancers. I even saw a recipe calling for a topping of tomato sauce – yet another way to use your bounty.

One day earlier this month, I was gifted both garden-grown heirloom tomatoes and a yellow squash. Dinner that night: a tian.

Yellow Squash Tian with Tomatoes and Thyme

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for coating pan

1/4 large yellow onion, diced

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 large yellow squash, cut into 1/8-inch rounds

2 tablespoons fresh thyme

Salt and pepper, to taste

2 to 3 large heirloom tomatoes, cut into 1/8-inch rounds

1 bunch basil

1/2 cup whole raw almonds

1/2 cup Gorgonzola crumbles

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly coat a 1-quart baking dish with olive oil.

In a skillet over medium heat, warm 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Add the onion and sauté until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, and cook another 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Spoon the mixture into the oiled baking dish, spread evenly and set aside.

In a large mixing bowl, combine the squash, 3 tablespoons of the oil, thyme, salt and pepper, and stir to coat evenly. Place squash and tomato slices on the onion-garlic mixture, overlapping the rows and tucking in a basil leaf after every two slices. Drizzle with remaining tablespoon oil and bake for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, crush and toast almonds. Give the almonds a few pulses in the bowl of a food processor, then add crushed almonds to a medium, heavy-bottomed skillet. Cook over moderately low heat, stirring constantly, until the almonds are golden, about 5 minutes.

Remove the baking dish from the oven and add the cheese, tucking crumbles between veggie slices. Bake for 10 to 15 more minutes.

Let stand for 10 minutes before sprinkling on the toasted crushed almonds and serving.

Yield: 3 to 4 servings

Summer Vegetable Tian

From Williams-Sonoma

3/4 cup olive oil, plus more for greasing pan

1/2 large yellow onion, diced

1 red bell pepper, seeded and cut into 1/8-inch strips

5 garlic cloves, minced

Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

3 small zucchini, cut into 1/8-inch rounds

2 small crookneck squash, cut into 1/8-inch rounds

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme

1 pound plum tomatoes, cut into 1/8-inch rounds

1/2 cup grated Parmigiano- Reggiano cheese

1/2 cup fine dried bread crumbs

Preheat an oven to 350 degrees. Lightly coat a 2-quart baking dish with olive oil.

In a fry pan over medium heat, warm 5 tablespoons of the olive oil. Add the onion and sauté until translucent, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the bell pepper and garlic and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 5 to 10 minutes. Transfer the onion-pepper mixture to the prepared baking dish and spread evenly. Set aside.

In a bowl, combine the zucchini, crookneck squash, 5 tablespoons of the oil, the rosemary, thyme, salt and pepper and stir to coat evenly. Arrange the zucchini, crookneck squash and tomato slices on the onion-pepper mixture, overlapping the rows. Drizzle with the remaining 2 tablespoons oil and bake for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a bowl, stir together the cheese and bread crumbs. Remove the baking dish from the oven and sprinkle the bread crumb mixture on top. Bake for 15 minutes more.

Turn the oven to broil and broil until the cheese is golden brown, 5 to 8 minutes. Let stand for 10 minutes before serving.

Yield: 6 servings