If Simplicity Is Good, Then Huckleberries Are The Best

Royal purple and deep blue, huckleberries and their tamer cousins, domestic blueberries, are in season and ready to brighten everything from kids’ snacks to company dinner.

Two of the most uncomplicated fruits of summer, these colorful cousins come in their own neat little packages: no pitting, coring or peeling necessary. All they need is a thorough rinse and they’re ready for use. They’ll remain fresh for 10 to 14 days if kept refrigerated at 32 to 35 degrees.

They’re good for you, too. A half-cup of blueberries has only 41 calories, is high in potassium, iron and calcium and is a good source of vitamins A and C.

For youngsters, consider serving slightly frozen blueberries or huckleberries as a cool hot-day treat. Freezing helps cut down on staining.

Huckleberries and blueberries may be interchanged in most recipes, but keep in mind that huckleberries are more flavorful.

Blueberry-Huckleberry Ice Cream

2 pints fresh blueberries or huckleberries

3/4 cup sugar

1/4 cup water

1 lemon, juice and zest (grated rind)

1 quart whole cream

2 egg yolks

Pinch of salt

Pick through berries to remove any stems.

Meanwhile, melt sugar, water, lemon juice and zest together to about 125 degrees. In another pan, heat cream to about 100 degrees.

Puree berries. Add pureed berries to simple syrup mixture while still 125 degrees. Keep over heat briefly until berries are bright blue or purple but not cooked.

In a large mixing bowl combine beaten yolks and a pinch of salt, then slowly mix cream and yolks together, whisking constantly. Add blueberries in syrup to cream mixture. Chill in refrigerator for about 45 minutes.

Transfer to ice cream freezer. Following freezer manufacturer’s directions, chill to about 45 degrees. For best results, use a 5-quart ice cream maker with an electric motor top and wooden bucket using plenty of ice and rock salt.

Yield: 1-1/2 quarts, or 12 half-cup servings.

Nutrition information per cup: 360 calories, 2 grams protein, 31 grams fat (78 percent fat calories), 32 grams carbohydrate, 36 milligrams sodium, 147 milligrams cholesterol.

Blueberry Blue Cheese Dressing

2 tablespoons blue cheese, crumbled

1 large clove garlic, pressed

1/3 cup blueberry vinegar (purchase or see recipe below)

2 tablespoons, plus 1/2 cup olive oil

1 clove chopped shallot

1 tablespoon fresh chopped tarragon (2 teaspoons dried)

1 teaspoon honey

Salt and pepper, to taste

Mash together blue cheese, garlic and blueberry vinegar until cheese is well incorporated. Pouring slowly, in a steady stream, whisk in the olive oil. Add the shallot, tarragon and honey. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

This dressing is especially good served with such greens and/or edible flowers as nasturtiums, Johnny-jumpups, day lilies, sweet cicely, spinach, endive, arugula, Belgian endive, lemon mint, beet greens, mustard greens and tarragon leaves. Garnish with red onion and orange wedges. Top with dressing and fresh blueberries.

Nutrition information per serving: 130 calories, 14 grams fat (96.4 percent fat calories), 2 grams carbohydrates, 60 milligrams sodium, 1 milligram cholesterol, 34 milligrams potassium.

Blueberry Vinegar

2 pints fresh blueberries, rinsed and drained

1 quart white vinegar, divided

1/2 cup sugar

Prepare at least two days before use. Place blueberries, 1-1/2 cups vinegar and sugar in saucepan; simmer gently for 5 minutes. Cool. Pour into 1-1/2-quart jar; fill jar with remain white vinegar. Cover and let stand at least 2 days. Strain vinegar as it is used, but do not discard blueberries. Store in refrigerator. Use for preparing salad dressings and sauces.

Blueberry-Huckleberry Cornmeal Pancakes

1 cup yellow cornmeal

2 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup boiling water

1 egg

1/2 cup milk

2 tablespoons melted butter or margarine

1/2 cup flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 cup fresh blueberries and/or huckleberries (or frozen berries, thawed and drained)

Combine cornmeal, sugar and salt in large bowl. Stir in boiling water; cover and let stand for 5 minutes.

In small bowl, beat egg, milk and butter together until smooth. Pour into cornmeal mixture along with flour and baking powder, stirring quickly, only until combined. Add blueberries, gently mixing.

Use 1/4 to 1/3 cup batter for each pancake, cooking on heated griddle or electric skillet. Cook until bubbles form and edges become dry. Turn and cook 2 minutes longer, or until nicely brown on second side. Serve with whipped butter and syrup (maple, blueberry or huckleberry) or a blueberry or huckleberry sauce.

Yield: 10 (4-inch) pancakes.

Nutrition information per pancake: 126 calories, 3 grams fat (25 percent fat calories), 3 grams protein, 21 grams carbohydrate, 304 milligrams sodium, 29 milligrams cholesterol.

Blueberry-Huckleberry Sauce

2 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1/4 cup orange juice

1/4 cup water

1/4 teaspoon grated orange zest (rind)

1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg

Dash salt

2 cups fresh blueberries and/or huckleberries (or frozen berries, thawed)

Combine sugar and cornstarch in medium saucepan. Stir in remaining ingredients; cook and stir over medium heat 4 to 5 minutes or in microwave oven, stirring after each minute, until thickened.

Serve on pancakes, waffles, blintzes, ice cream, frozen yogurt, puddings, pound cake or angel food cake.

Yield: About 2 cups.

Nutrition information per tablespoon: 20 calories, 5 grams carbohydrate, 1 milligram sodium.

MEMO: Laura Carnie, a certified home economist and food consultant in Coeur d’Alene, would like to hear from you. Write to Cook’s Notebook, Features Department, The Spokesman-Review, P.O. Box 2160, Spokane, WA 99210.

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