Quinones Gives Ii Moon Its Saucy Style

In an industry crowded with toquefilling egos, chef Steve Quinones is refreshingly unassuming.

He seems almost embarrassed about taking credit for the success of the innovative menu at the II Moon Cafe in Spokane’s Mars Hotel.

“You should never get so confident that you become lax,” he said.

Quinones has been stuck in high gear since he started as a dishwasher at the Del Mar horse racing track near San Diego when he was just 15.

When he expressed interest in cooking, someone advised him to get a job at the best restaurant around and learn everything he could. Back then, he put in 16-hour days, often working as a cook’s helper for free.

“I considered that my schooling,” Quinones said.

With classically trained French chefs, he studied sauces and stocks (“veal bones are the best base for stocks,” he said) and learned to trust his instincts when seasoning dishes.

Like many veteran chefs, Quinones rarely measures ingredients when preparing food. He encourages home cooks to try doing the same.

“You shouldn’t be scared to throw things in and give dishes some individuality,” he said. “Start with small doses, though.”

When dressing up a basic butter sauce, Quinones said he likes to add dried herbs, salt and pepper and garlic in the beginning so the concentrated flavors have a chance to mellow slightly during the cooking process. Fresh herbs such as basil, parsley and cilantro should be tossed in just before serving to retain the vibrant flavors and colors, he said.

Another thing he’s learned over the course of his career is the importance of using the best quality ingredients.

“When I first started out, it was common to use cheap jug wines, but I’ve found using good wine, like a riesling or a port for beef dishes, makes the finished product taste so much better,” he said.

Quinones’ rise from dishwasher to executive chef at the ultra-deluxe La Valencia Hotel in La Jolla, Calif., to restaurant owner (he owned the popular La Leyenda in Spokane before becoming chef and partner at the II Moon) is an indication of how driven he is. But that doesn’t mean he’s one-dimensional.

His “other” life begins at Playfair every morning at 5:30. He owns and trains race horses.

“It’s so completely different from what I do at the restaurant, it helps me from getting burned out,” Quinones said.

Dire Straits

This is one of the newest entrees at the II Moon Cafe.

2 6-ounce chicken breasts

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/4 cup beer

Salt and pepper, to taste

1 6-ounce can frozen pineapple juice concentrate

1/4 cup chicken stock

1/4 cup fresh ginger, cut into matchsticksize pieces

4 cloves garlic, chopped

2-3 tablespoons curry powder, or to taste

Dash cayenne pepper

1 cup couscous

1 cup boiling water

1 tablespoon diced carrots

1 tablespoon chopped onions

6 dried apricot halves, diced

1 tablespoon raisins

1 tablespoon chopped pecans

1 tablespoon sesame oil

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 teaspoon cilantro, chopped

1 teaspoon rice vinegar

Marinate chicken breasts in olive oil, beer and a light sprinkling of salt and pepper for about 30 minutes.

While marinating, make sauce by combining pineapple concentrate, chicken stock, ginger, garlic, curry powder and cayenne pepper. Cook over medium-high heat until mixture is reduced by 1/4, approximately 15 minutes.

Add boiling water to couscous, cover and let sit for at least five minutes. Then fold in carrots, onions, diced apricots, raisins, pecans, sesame oil, soy sauce, cilantro and rice vinegar.

Grill or broil chicken breast approximately 3 minutes per side over a medium hot fire. Check for doneness after five minutes by cutting into the thickest part of the breast.

To serve, arrange couscous on a plate, top with a chicken breast and cover with sauce. Garnish with additional diced apricots, pecans and raisins.

Yield: 2 servings.

, DataTimes ILLUSTRATION: Color photo