Get Squashed Pumpkins And Squashes Add A Robust Quality To Fall And Winter Meals

When I think of pumpkins and squashes, it just makes me want to cook up something good, decorate the table with pressed autumn leaves and toast up some pumpkin seeds.

I never could figure out what I was supposed to do with all those pumpkins and squashes that had graced my table as beautiful centerpieces, decorated my mantel or provided a festive look to my front porch. Now I have, and here are some recipes that are baked or served in winter squashes.

We’ve probably all had stuffed acorn squash, or brown sugar- and butter-glazed rings, or experimented with the unusual spaghetti squash. But what about the lesser-known varieties such as Sweet Dumplings or Turk’s Turbans? Some of the smaller squashes make an ideal container for a meal or a dessert, and the bigger ones can even serve as a beautiful soup tureen.

Why not try baking delicious, individual pot pies using the exceptionally sweet Sweet Dumpling variety? In the recipe for Squash Baked Wild Rice Pilaf, a good-sized squash is filled with a mixture of wild and brown rice, zipped up with citrus peel, figs, dried apricots, pecans and apples. Baked with chicken broth and apple cider, this side dish makes a festive fall accompaniment to roasted chicken or turkey.

Everyone knows about using pumpkins for pie filling, which is an old standby. But what about those cute, tangerine-size Jack-Be-Little pumpkins? What can you do with those? Well, they are just what the season calls for - perfect little edible serving dishes for bread puddings and custards.

They can also be filled with seasonal vegetable purees, such as celery root or beets, or with other cooked vegetables. Cut off the tiny tops, scoop out the insides, rub the outsides with a little oil, lightly season, then roast in the oven. When cooked until tender, they can be eaten, skin and all.

Grocers’ produce sections usually cut those huge hubbards, the most common of the winter squashes, into manageable pieces. But if you’ve grown or been gifted with a whole squash, they can be difficult to handle and cook. Be careful when trying to cut them open; some experts suggest placing your biggest, sharpest knife lengthwise in the squash and tapping it gently with a wooden mallet until the squash splits in two.

When preparing winter squash for cooking, scoop out all the seeds and fiber. (Be sure to reserve the seeds of larger squash for toasting.) Halves or quarters are best placed cut side down on a baking pan and baked in a moderate oven until tender.

If you want a faster method, try steaming. I like to peel off the outer skin with a small, sharp knife, then cube the squash and steam until tender.

Squash can also be microwaved on High (100 percent power). The tiny varieties, if pierced in a few places, can be cooked whole in 4 to 6 minutes. Small ones should be cut open, seeded, covered and cooked 5 to 8 minutes.

Large squash should be cut into pieces, covered and microwaved until tender, 8 to 10 minutes. I sometimes add a little water to my cooking vessel for moisture.

To toast the seeds, wash them well, toss with your favorite seasonings, then bake at 350 degrees, tossing them often, until golden and crisp. Seasonings can include soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce and a dash of Tabasco. Or for a spicier treatment, you can use olive oil, cayenne, chili powder and salt. You could even try a curried version.

Winter squashes are rich in complex carbohydrates and are good sources of fiber, and the deep orange-fleshed varieties such as acorn and Buttercup are carotene powerhouses. Very low in calories, fat and sodium, they are best harvested after the first cold snap, which enhances their sugar content.

All of the hard-shelled squash are relatively low in moisture and are good candidates for long storage. If you want to stock up when the more unusual varieties are available, large winter squash can be kept in a dry 50-degree area for a few months. (Delicata and Sweet Dumpling varieties are exceptions; they should be held at room temperature for only a few weeks.) An unheated entry way can store a welcoming display of your squash patch harvest.

And this season you’ll have plenty of ideas for a head start on eating your crop as well.

Squash-Baked Wild Rice Pilaf with Fruit and Pecans

This makes a nice accompaniment to roast chicken.

1 winter squash (or pumpkin), about 8 inches in diameter

1/4 cup wild rice

1/2 cup brown rice

1/2 teaspoon grated orange peel

1/2 teaspoon grated lemon peel

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 green onion, minced

2 dried figs, chopped

2 dried apricot halves, chopped

1 tablespoon chopped raisins

1/4 cup coarsely chopped pecans

1/3 cup diced, peeled green apple

1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/8 teaspoon ground allspice

1/8 teaspoon ground cloves

1 bay leaf

1 teaspoon salt

Dash cayenne pepper or to taste

2-1/4 cups chicken broth

3/4 cup apple cider or juice

Cut top off squash. Thoroughly scrape out seeds and loose fiber. Place on baking sheet and set aside.

Place wild and brown rice, orange and lemon peels, lemon juice, onion, figs, apricots, raisins, pecans, apple, nutmeg, allspice, cloves, bay leaf, salt, cayenne, broth and apple cider in pan. Bring to boil. Cover and simmer 45 minutes.

Spoon rice mixture into squash and replace top. Bake at 350 degrees until rice is cooked and squash is tender, 45 to 60 minutes. Remove bay leaf.

To serve, place squash on serving plate. Remove top and with large knife, cut through it, and serve wedge of squash with pilaf on each plate. Or you can serve pilaf directly from squash.

Yield: 4 servings.

Turkey Pot Pies Baked in Mini-Squashes with Whole Wheat-Herb Biscuit Tops

These individual pot pies baked in their own edible containers will delight your friends. They travel well, so try them when it’s your turn to bring the main dish for a get-together.

4 mini winter squash, such as Sweet Dumpling, 4 to 6 inches in diameter

1-1/2 cups chicken broth

1/3 cup thinly sliced carrots

1/2 cup thinly sliced celery

1/3 cup 1/2-inch-cut green beans

1/3 cup diced sweet red pepper

1 cup milk (about)

2 tablespoons butter

1/4 cup chopped onion

2 large mushrooms, chopped

3 tablespoons whole wheat flour

1/4 teaspoon dried sage

1/4 teaspoon dried thyme

1/4 teaspoon dried oregano

1/8 teaspoon dried dill weed

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

Dash Tabasco sauce

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon salt or to taste

1 cup cubed, skinned cooked turkey (or chicken)

Whole Wheat-Herb Biscuits

Cut off top third of each squash. Thoroughly scrape out seeds and loose fiber. Place tops back on squash and place them on baking sheet. Bake at 350 degrees until flesh is tender, 30 minutes.

Bring broth to boil in pan. Add carrots, celery, green beans and sweet red pepper and blanch until tender-crisp. Reserve vegetables and drain off remaining stock into large measuring cup. Add enough milk to make 1-1/2 cups stock mixture.

Melt butter in heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and mushrooms and saute until soft, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in flour and cook 1 minute.

Gradually whisk in stock mixture until ingredients are well incorporated. Add herbs and seasonings and cook over low heat 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in reserved vegetables and turkey. Remove from heat and keep warm.

Prepare whole wheat-herb biscuits.

When squash are done, remove from oven and increase oven temperature to 400 degrees. Trim off excess flesh around edges of squash to create space for filling. (Extra squash flesh can be added to filling.) Spoon filling into each squash. Top each with 1 biscuit round. Place on baking sheet and bake until biscuits are done, about 20 minutes.

Yield: 4 servings.

Note: Fresh herbs can be substituted for dried herbs, using twice the amount.

Whole-Wheat Herb Biscuits

1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour

3/4 cup whole wheat flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup shortening

1/2 teaspoon dried sage

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

1/4 teaspoon dried dill weed

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley

3/4 cup low-fat buttermilk

1 teaspoon honey

Sift together flours, baking powder, baking soda and salt into large bowl. Cut in shortening until mixture resembles coarse meal. Stir in sage, thyme, oregano, dill and parsley.

Combine buttermilk and honey in small bowl and mix well. Add to dry ingredients and stir gently with fork until medium-soft dough is formed. Turn dough out onto lightly floured surface and divide into 4 pieces. Pat each into round the size of squash top. Use as directed above.

Note: Fresh herbs can be substituted for the dried herbs, using twice the amount.

Harvest Apple-Squash Bisque

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 cup diced onion

2 teaspoons minced garlic

2 Golden Delicious apples, peeled, cored and diced

4 cups (1-1/2 pounds) peeled and cubed winter squash (any type of sweet squash such as Hubbard or pumpkin)

1-1/2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon coriander seeds, crushed

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

3/4 teaspoon ground cardamom

1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 bay leaf

1/2 teaspoon salt or to taste

3-1/2 cups chicken broth

3/4 cup sour cream plus extra for garnish

Unpeeled red apple, cored and cut into 1/4-inch dice

Green onion, thin diagonal cut

Heat olive oil in large heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add onion, garlic, apples and squash. Saute, stirring, about 4 minutes.

Add cumin, coriander, nutmeg, cardamom, cayenne, bay leaf and salt and cook 2 minutes longer. Add broth and bring to boil. Reduce heat. Cover and simmer until apples and squash are very tender, about 15 minutes.

Remove from heat. Discard bay leaf. Puree soup, in batches, along with 3/4 cup sour cream in blender or food processor. (Be careful not to process large batches since soup is very hot.)

To serve, divide soup among warm bowls. Swirl small amount of remaining sour cream on top of soup. Sprinkle with apples and green onion.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Note: For vegetarian soup, substitute 3 cups vegetable broth and 1/2 cup apple juice for the chicken broth.

MEMO: Kathy Casey is a Seattle chef and food writer.