Shrimp And Grits Simple Dish For Special Meal

In the marshlands of South Carolina, shrimp were as plentiful as any cook could desire and the backbone of Lowcountry cooking, according to John Martin Taylor, author of “Hoppin’ John’s Lowcountry Cooking” (Bantam). And rather than squander the fresh, briny flavor with a lot of added ingredients, shrimp dishes were simple.

Shrimp isn’t as abundant today as it was 50 years ago, but the classic Lowcountry recipes still treat seafood with respect. One of the treasures of the region is shrimp and grits, an unlikely combination of shrimp in gravy served over a bed of creamed grits.

There are as many versions of the recipe as there are shrimp lovers. Taylor claims to make seven or eight versions of the dish and offers a few in his book.

All are basically the same: Saute vegetables in bacon grease or another fat. Thicken the fat with flour and thin with water or stock. Then add the shrimp and cook through.

Properly cooked grits act as a sponge to soak up the delicious gravy. The creamier the grits, the better the foil for the shrimp.

Traditionally, shrimp and grits were a casual breakfast dish. However, now that breakfast is a quick bowl of cereal, cooks usually prepare shrimp for a special brunch.

Shrimp and Grits

Adapted from “Hoppin’ John’s Lowcountry Cooking,” by John Martin Taylor (Bantam).

Grits (recipe follows)

1/2 pound medium-size raw shrimp

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons butter

1/4 cup chopped green onion

1/4 cup chopped green bell pepper

1 to 2 teaspoons minced jalapeno chili, optional (see note)

2 tablespoons flour

1 cup hot chicken broth

Salt and pepper to taste

Start grits. While they cook, prepare shrimp.

Peel shrimp, place in bowl and toss with lemon juice. Set aside. Meanwhile, melt butter in large skillet. Add green onions, bell pepper and chili and saute over medium heat for 5 minutes.

Stir in flour to form a paste. Gradually stir in chicken broth until mixture is smooth. Turn heat to low. Add shrimp and cook until tender and done, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

To serve, spoon grits onto 2 plates. Top each with half the shrimp and plenty of sauce. Serve immediately.

Yield: 2 servings.

Note: Jalapenos aren’t a typical shrimp-and-grits ingredient. I like the bite, but they certainly can be omitted.

Grits

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 cups water

1/2 cup grits (look in the cereal section of supermarkets)

1/2 to 2/3 cup half-and-half (see note)

Salt and pepper to taste

Combine butter and water in medium, heavy-bottomed pot. Gradually stir in grits. Return to boil. Reduce heat and cook at low boil, stirring constantly, until grits have absorbed liquid, about 5 minutes.

Stir in cream, a few tablespoons at a time, never adding more until the first batch is absorbed. When grits are creamy and tender, about 15 to 20 minutes, stop adding half-and-half. Season with salt and pepper and serve immediately.

Note: If desired, milk can substitute for the half-and-half, but the grits won’t be as luscious.