‘Micros’ From Maxi-Makers

If imitation is indeed the sincerest form of flattery, America’s microbrewers ought to be blushing beet-red by now.

Two of the “big boys” - Anheuser-Busch, under its Michelob label, and Stroh, through its Henry Weinhard brand - have come out with more new beers to mimic the micros.

Michelob, which previously introduced an Amber Bock and Hefeweizen, has added another four sophisticated-sounding styles: Honey Lager, Golden Pilsner, Pale Ale and Porter (the latter being test-marketed only in the Northwest).

Weinhard, whose most recent new product was a tasty Boar’s Head Red lager, is also putting out a Porter, as well as an Amber Ale.

As one would expect, these fall somewhere between true micros and typical industrial beer in terms of taste, and in price - a prime consideration for bargain-thirsty drinkers.

The deep golden Honey Lager, soft with a lingering, floral honey aftertaste, is probably the best of the Michelob offerings, although it’s a bit sweet for my palate.

My least favorite was the Golden Pilsner, which, despite some spicy Saaz hop aroma, tastes more harsh than hoppy. That’s likely the result of excessive carbonation, compared to most microbrews (something I detected, to different degrees, in all the Michelob beers).

The pale copper Pale Ale, a traditional British style, has little aroma, body or flavor. Wheat malt has been added to the barley to lighten the beer, which I’m told is not uncommon in England. However, the hop varieties - Saaz, Tettnang and Hallertauer - would be much more at home in Munich than Manchester (not that there’s any noticeable hop character to begin with).

Michelob’s deep mahogany Porter is more respectable. Some roastiness balances the sweetness from a mixture of four malts, although the thinnish beer is still a lightweight for its style.

The Weinhard Porter, almost opaque in color, is smoother, sweeter and fuller-bodied than the Michelob version, with just a hint of roastiness in the finish. But Henry’s thin, sweetish Amber Ale is fairly forgettable, with little evidence of the caramel malt advertised on the label and even less of the Cascade hops. (My advice: Stick to the richer Boar’s Head Red.)

All in all, these are approachable, affordable beers for what Michelob’s marketing materials call “entry/fringe specialty drinkers,” those still learning their way around the craft beer landscape. Happy hunting.

Fine-feathered frenzy

If you’re interested in sampling several micros, the Micro-Brew (their spelling) Frenzy at the Interstate Fairgrounds on April 19 is shaping up as one of the biggest beer-centered events in Spokane in some time.

Fifteen breweries were signed up at press time, each bringing two of their beers. The less commonly viewed varieties on the schedule include a Vienna Ale from Widmer, Redhook’s spring seasonal Nut Brown Ale, a Summer Pale Ale from Portland Brewing and Full Sail’s excellent Equinox ESB spring beer.

Hale’s will be there with its new Dublin-style Cream Ale, a nitrogenated beer that’s exceptionally smooth, while Pend Oreille Brewing is rolling out its summer seasonal Huckleberry Wheat.

The event, which benefits the Wishing Star Foundation, runs from noon to 10 p.m. Admission is $6.50 in advance ($8 at the door), which includes three drink tokens; additional tokens are $1 each. Tickets are available through G&B Select-A-Seat (325-SEAT).

And more microbrews will be on tap at the Spokane Spring Wine & Beer Festival on April 25 from 7 to 10 p.m. at the Crescent Court, a fund-raiser for the Muscular Dystrophy Association. Tickets are $15; for information, call the MDA office at 325-3747.

North to Sandpoint

Alaskan Brewing Co. owners Geoff and Marcy Larson will appear at a pair of special events April 16 at Eichardt’s in Sandpoint.

At 5:30 p.m., there’s a vertical tasting of various vintages of Alaskan’s seasonal Smoked Porter, accompanied by hors d’oeuvres from The Smoke House. Tickets are $25, and availability is limited; call (208) 263-4005.

And at 7 p.m., the pub will host an Alaskan night open to the public. Along with the Juneau brewery’s regular Pale, Amber and Frontier ales, its Breakup Bock, Oatmeal Stout, sprucey Old Growth Barley Wine and most recent Smoked Porter will be on tap.

Mountain range

Coeur d’Alene’s Hollister Mountain Brewing is introducing three new beers: a Wet Willie wheat ale, smooth with a hint of hops; a medium-bodied Bog Water Stout, chocolaty with a roasty finish, and an Extra Special Bitter (which wasn’t ready for tasting at press time).

Hollister Mountain’s beers, available in various locations in North Idaho, are also starting to be distributed in Spokane. Look for the golden, slightly spicy Fieldstone Rye at Finnerty’s Red Lion.

Beers of summer

Elsewhere on the big brewery front, Coors has again come out with beer in bat-shaped bottles to celebrate the return of baseball season. This year, the bottles bear the signatures of diamond greats Reggie Jackson, Willie Mays and Ernie Banks (say, hey, let’s drink two!)

And Sam Adams, a “contract brewer” which pays bigger breweries to make its beer, has cooked up a rather tasty new Summer Ale. It’s similar to Belgian white beers, which typically contain orange peel and coriander, but instead uses lemon zest and a peppercorn-like spice called “grains of paradise” that was popular in the early days of brewing, before hops became common.

, DataTimes MEMO: On Tap is a monthly feature of IN Food. Write to: On Tap, Features Department, The Spokesman-Review, P.O. Box 2160, Spokane, WA 99210. Call 459-5446, fax 459-5098 or e-mail to rickb@spokesman.com

The following fields overflowed: CREDIT = Rick Bonino The Spokesman-Review