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‘The Rooty’ It’s Filling, It’s Delicious

Ken Hoffman King Features Syndicate

This week I reached out for the Rooty Tooty Fresh ‘n’ Fruity breakfast at the International House of Pancakes.

Not just any International House of Pancakes, but the world’s largest IHOP, on the Katy Freeway, between Wilcrest Drive and Kirkwood Street, in Houston. The place is huge. It holds 303 people. I asked someone to pass the syrup and heard an echo.

The world’s biggest IHOP doesn’t make a big fuss about it. There are no blinking neon signs, no billboards with arrows pointing to the restaurant. Instead, there is just a dignified marker at the front door. Tourists in plaid shorts and black socks (it’s the new hot look of the ‘90s) pose for photos next to the sign.

Back to my breakfast. Here’s the blueprint: two eggs anyway you want ‘em (I went scrambled), two sausage links, two bacon strips, two buttermilk pancakes with choice of strawberry, blueberry or blackberry topping.

Total calories: 760. Fat grams: 24.

The Rooty Tooty Fresh ‘n’ Fruity - or “The Rooty,” as it’s known back in the kitchen - is an all-star breakfast. It’s got all the bases covered, with eggs and pancakes and fruit and pork.

It’s filling. It’s delicious. It’s cooked to order.

It ain’t cheap, though. For $5-plus, I wouldn’t mind seeing some free toast tossed in.

For a few more bits, you can swap out the buttermilk pancakes for IHOP’s premium label Harvest Grain ‘n’ Nuts or Country Griddle pancakes. My recommendation: Splurge and get the Country Griddles, which have a yummy bonus of cream of wheat in them. It will make you think you’re eating healthy.

The Rooty was introduced eight years ago and enjoyed immediate favor with IHOP regulars, especially young kids.

After all these years of food fads and silly trends (do you know where your juicer is?), the most popular item on IHOP’s menu is still plain old pancakes. You can have a short stack (three pancakes); I’ll take a full stack (five). The No. 1 syrup is maple.

One of my favorite things about IHOP is also my only complaint.

I love that most IHOPs are open 24 hours a day (at least on the weekends, anyway). After working the late shift or cruising the nightclubs, nothing beats a Rooty Tooty Fresh ‘n’ Fruity at 2 a.m. It’s a terrific place to end a date, or size up your chances of going into overtime.

I just wish IHOP would tone down its lighting. It’s so bright in there you could perform surgery.

At 2 a.m., sometimes it’s best not to get a good, clear look at your dining companion.

MEMO: The Drive-Thru Gourmet reviews offerings from various fast-food restaurants.

The Drive-Thru Gourmet reviews offerings from various fast-food restaurants.