Switching From Policies To Plates

Meg Rychel-Edwards began her professional life in the insurance business in her native Chicago.

Then she was transferred to San Francisco and fell in love with that city’s vibrant restaurant scene.

“Growing up in a big Irish-Italian family, we didn’t dine out much,” said Rychel-Edwards, the chef at Fugazzi in Spokane (1 N. Post, 624-1133). “Chinese food was chop suey. Then I went to San Francisco and started eating in all these amazing places. I spent all of my money eating out.”

After nine years in the corporate world, she enrolled in the California Culinary Academy in 1983 and immersed herself in the world of food.

“I thought it looked like a lot of fun and I might as well spend my time doing something that was fun,” said Rychel-Edwards, 41.

After graduating, she landed a plum assignment at a San Francisco restaurant owned by Wolfgang Puck of Spago fame.

During the year and a half she spent at Puck’s Postrio, Rychel-Edwards helped develop a number of pasta dishes and picked up a very California technique of treating salad dressings as sauces.

“I just blend a little Dijon or yogurt, something that will emulsify, and add herbs, garlic or shallots, (and) mix it in a blender or food processor with some juice or wine vinegar and some light oils like canola or peanut,” she said.

Then she drizzles that over the entree, whether it’s chicken or seafood.

“Lots of people will ask, ‘What is that sauce? It’s so good,”’ she said.

Rychel-Edwards likes to challenge diners with creative tricks like that, but she doesn’t want to shock them.

“I always try to be aware that what I like to do may not be what others like to eat,” she said.

Like the ostrich that just doesn’t sell, or the quail dish she loved but couldn’t give it away.

“It’s fun to experiment and play, but if your dining room is empty, you’re not going to be playing very long,” Rychel-Edwards said.

Some of her most memorable dishes are not entrees but accompaniments. She likes to mix and match textures for interesting contrasts.

“If you have a creamy sauce, try serving it with something crunchy like fried tortillas,” Rychel-Edwards said.

Upscale mashed potatoes have become a staple on Fugazzi’s menu, with flavors changing regularly. The two favorites: colorful cabernet-spiked spuds, and potatoes mashed with sour cream and chives.

“I think this trend is here to stay. It’s a comfort thing,” she said.

Along with her blender and food processor, Rychel-Edwards said one of her indispensable kitchen gadgets is a zester. She uses it to zest lemons, limes, oranges, even grapefruits.

“Adding citrus zest at the end of a recipe gives it that extra brightness,” she said.

When she’s cooking at home, Rychel-Edwards isn’t quite as ambitious. “A lot of times I just say, ‘Honey, what’s for dinner?”’ she said.

After all, her husband is Bill Edwards, the chef at Rockpointe Corporate Center’s new cafe.

Basil-Orange-Ginger Vinaigrette

Rychel-Edwards suggests using this as a marinade for chicken, fish or beef. It can also be used to dress mixed greens, or warmed slightly and drizzled over grilled poultry.

2 shallots, chopped

1 clove garlic, peeled and chopped

1/2 teaspoon chopped ginger

2 tablespoons fresh basil, chopped

Zest of 2 oranges

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1/2 cup orange juice

1/4 cup sherry vinegar, available at specialty food shops (or substitute a white wine vinegar)

1 to 1-1/2 cups canola oil

1 tablespoon sugar

Black pepper and salt to taste

In a food processor or large blender, mix the shallots, garlic, ginger, basil and orange zest to a fine paste. Add Dijon mustard and blend 15 seconds. Add orange juice and vinegar and blend for 15 seconds.

With processor running, add the oil in a slow steady stream. Season with sugar, salt and pepper.

Yield: About 2 cups.

Nutrition information per 2-tablespoon serving (using 1 cup canola oil): 132 calories, 13.81 grams fat (94 percent fat calories), 2 grams carbohydrate, no cholesterol, no protein, 48 milligrams sodium.

, DataTimes ILLUSTRATION: Color Photo