New Wineries On The Rise

It’s no huge challenge to write nice things about established Northwest vintners. Producers such as Leonetti, Woodward Canyon, Columbia and Ste. Michelle continue to churn out great - and sometimes frustratingly hard-to-find - stuff.

The real trick is identifying the rising stars. Latching on to new talent helps us feel smug about enjoying the fruits of their labors long before the big-number ratings show up in The Wine Spectator.

Some recent entries on the Northwest wine scene show strong signs of being contenders. Here’s the scoop on some newcomers:

While Spokane’s Knipprath Cellars has been around for years, it disappeared for some time. Last fall, it was reborn.

Winemaker Henning Knipprath completed his tour of duty with the Air Force and is now dedicating his energies full time to the business of fermenting grapes.

“Hopefully, this reorganization will make us a better winery,” Knipprath said.

His second coming was marked by a prestigious gold medal for the Knipprath gewurztraminer at the Tri-Cities Wine Festival in November.

Knipprath didn’t make wine last year, but still has a full lineup from the previous vintage, including pinot noir, chardonnay, riesling, muscat blanc and a port.

The extra year of bottle age might have something to do with the positive way the wine is being received.

“It’s had a little more time to develop,” Knipprath said.

Other new developments include a Web site - check www.knipprathcellars.com, starting this weekend - and the winery’s extended tasting room hours. It’s now open daily from 11:30 a.m. until 6 p.m. Monday through Saturday and from noon until 5 p.m. on Sunday. The tasting room is located at 163 S. Lincoln. Call 624-9132 for additional details.

Cocolalla Winery can’t really be called a newcomer, either, having been around since 1983. But its impressive and affordable sparkling wine has been available in this area only since November.

The North Idaho operation, owned by Don Merkeley and his wife, Vivian, uses Washington fruit and - I love this - ages the wine in an old mining shaft. (The 48-degree temperature year-round is ideal for nurturing wine.)

Merkeley’s background in wine includes planting one of the state’s early, experimental vinifera vineyards near Royal City, Wash., in the ‘60s. (They discovered it was too cold there, with vines destroyed by frost.) Aside from that brief stint as a grower, he’s long had an interest in wine and has taken courses in California.

The Cocolalla bubbly that’s on the shelves now is made with fruit harvested in 1988 from vineyards near Othello. Merkeley, who is the winemaker, used a blend of pinot noir and chardonnay to make the traditional methode champenoise-style wine. (That’s French for “the bubbles are made in a bottle, not in a big vat like the cheap stuff from California.”) The Cocolalla sparkling wine is medium-bodied and bone dry with bubbles that explode in your mouth. It’s an amazing bargain at under $10. Don’t be put off by the cheesy label.

China Bend Winery deserves a lot of credit for its commitment to organic farming.

In 1989, owners Bart and Victory Alexander started growing organic grapes near Kettle Falls, Wash., along with other crops. (I’m crazy about their preserves and the extra-hot pickled green beans.)

They also use no sulfites in producing their wines, which include chardonnay, gewurztraminer, lemberger, riesling and a nouveau. (Though, most premium wineries would be quick to point out, very little of that preservative is used in producing their wine, and, even when it’s not added, sulfites are a natural by-product of the fermentation process.)

Unfortunately, I have yet to taste a wine from China Bend that I can recommend. Still, I realize there is such an interest in organic wines that some people might be willing to overlook the slightly funky taste I’ve experienced.

Maybe the wines will improve. Stay tuned.

Matthew Loso of Matthews Cellars in Woodinville, Wash., started making wine when he was 17. He’s now 26 and has gained some notoriety among wine gurus as a real up and comer. His credentials include working at Columbia, French Creek and McCrea wineries before striking out on his own.

Loso specializes in reds - namely, a blockbuster blend of cabernet, merlot and cabernet franc. The ‘94 vintage of that proprietary blend - called simply Washington State Red - is long gone (he produces just 1,000 cases). But be on the lookout for a new release this spring.

Also, Matthews Cellars will open a new facility in Woodinville in midMarch and will do tours and tastings by appointment. For information, call (206) 487-9810.

Read all about it

An updated edition of “Northwest Wines” was recently published by Sasquatch Books, and it contains the lowdown on the region’s new wineries along with factoids about all the old-timers.

I like the way this book is organized, starting with essays on pairing food with wine, details on vintages, and fold-out maps before plunging into the star ratings of releases from more than 200 wineries in Washington, Oregon and Idaho.

It also contains such useful information as the addresses and phone numbers of these producers. (So, you can call them up and ask why it’s so hard to find their wine at the local supermarket!)

“Northwest Wines” is pocket-size, so you can take it along to help with your shopping needs. It’s $11.95 and is available at most bookstores and specialty wine shops.

Mark your calendar

More than 100 wines will be available for sampling during the North Idaho Hospice Tasting on Saturday at 6 p.m. at the Hayden Lake Country Club.

This popular fund-raising event also features an auction and lots of appetizers to go with those wines. Tickets are $60 each and can be purchased by calling (208) 772-7994.

Yakima Valley wineries will host their annual celebration of red wine and chocolate Feb. 15-17. The participating wineries will be open from 10 a.m. until 5 p.m. through the weekend. For a brochure that includes a map of Yakima Valley vintners, call (800) 258-7270.

I’m always looking for an excuse to head up to the Great White North, and the second Pacific Northwest Wine Festival at Victoria’s famous Empress Hotel sounds like the perfect busman’s holiday.

The weekend-long event, Feb. 7-8, will feature panel discussions by Canadian and Northwest winemakers on the state of the industry, as well as workshops on food and wine pairings and lavish tastings. Each segment is priced separately. Proceeds benefit The Victoria Symphony Society.

For additional information or reservations, call (800) 441-1414.

, DataTimes The following fields overflowed: CREDIT = Leslie Kelly The Spokesman-Review