A personal touch

Your sweetheart will love you for this.

There’s a perfect way to treat them this Valentine’s Day – but not too much.

Instead of whipping up a huge torte that you’ll be noshing long after the roses have faded or buying a Costco-sized cheesecake for the few slices you’ll serve at dinner for two, opt for something small, but no less delicious or thoughtful.

Individual-sized desserts are just enough to satisfy your craving for deserved decadence. I can’t resist the sweet call of leftovers and I’ll even admit I’ve been known to stick my fork into the day-old desserts for breakfast the next day. With these, I don’t even have to worry about willpower.

Mini, baby and individual desserts can be found at many bakeries, and the local grocery stores are getting into the act. Like buying a slice of cake, torte or pie, they’re just enough to serve one or two generously, but even cuter. A heart-shaped torte reserved just for you.

At Just American Desserts, co-owner Eva Roberts says their Valentine menu includes little Chocolate Sin Hearts, Cherry Cheesecake Hearts, Baby Boston Cream Cakes, Baby Chocolate Mousse Cakes, Heart-Shaped Cream Puffs and Chocolate Éclairs among the list of treats.

“They’re perfect for a sweetheart dinner,” she says. She suggests some crab legs and a bottle of wine from Williams Seafood and then a little bite from the bakery for those who missed out on dinner reservations. Of course, it pays to call ahead to make sure they have what you want.

Or, you can use Debby Maugans Nakos’ new cookbook to make the treats at home.

Nakos’ book, “Small-Batch Baking,” (Workman Publishing, 2004; $13.95; 452 pages) has more than 225 recipes for cakes, pies, tarts, cookies, cobblers, bars, biscuits, muffins, scones and more.

Nakos has miniaturized your favorite recipes. Her recipe for Irresistible Oatmeal Cookies made 8 perfect cookies. I threw them together and baked them on a whim during the last 20 minutes of my toddler’s nap.

Some of the recipes are designed to be baked in soup cans and other tin cans for adorable mini layer cakes and beautiful, bitty cheesecakes. We tested the Orange Spice Layer Cake with Orange Cream Cheese Frosting for my husband’s birthday. If you like (love!) frosting, this is the way to go.

Nakos even devotes a chapter to little treats for your sweetheart, her “Valentine Specials.”

I baked the Peanut Butter Tarts in little 4-inch heart-shaped springform pans instead of the tart pans she recommended, but they turned out perfectly (It took a few more minutes to finish baking than the recipe suggests.) I really should have shared mine, it was so rich and indulgent… but I ate the whole thing. (Don’t try this at home if you’re counting calories.)

Her Chocolate Walnut Tortes are sure to win your lover’s heart.

Sure, I won’t be making recipes from Nakos’ book all that often. It’s more efficient to make a huge batch of oatmeal cookies since I’m dirtying all the same dishes anyway. I can always freeze the extras.

But if you’re baking for a few, trying not to stock your house with treats you’ll abuse or simply want to have a little fun, this cookbook is great.

Chocolate Walnut Tortes

From “Small-Batch Baking,” by Debby Maugans Nakos

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus more for greasing the can

2 ounces premium-quality semisweet chocolate, finely chopped

1/2 cup walnut pieces

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1/4 cup sugar

2 large eggs, separated

1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Pinch of salt

Pinch of cream of tartar

Rich Ganache (recipe follows)

Pans required: 3 (8-ounce) cans

Place a rack in the center of the oven and preheat oven to 375 degrees. Lightly grease the insides of the cans. Place the can on a piece of parchment paper and trace around the circumference. Cut out 3 rounds of parchment and line the cans with them. Place the prepared cans on a baking sheet for easier handling and set it aside.

Place the chocolate in a small microwave-safe bowl and microwave on medium power until it is glossy and beginning to melt, about 1 minute. Then stir until it is smooth. Let the chocolate cool.

Place the walnuts and the flour in a food processor and process until the walnuts are very finely ground but not oily, 10 to 15 seconds.

Place the 3 tablespoons butter and sugar in a medium-size mixing bowl and beat with a hand-held electric mixer on high speed until creamy. Add the egg yolks, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Beat in the vanilla with the last yolk. Reduce the mixer speed to low and beat in the melted chocolate until blended, 10 to 15 seconds. Using a wooden spoon, gently stir in the ground walnut mixture.

Wash the mixer beaters and dry them thoroughly. Place the egg whites, salt and cream of tartar in a small bowl and beat with the mixer on high speed until the whites are skinny and hold stiff peaks when the mixer is turned off and the beaters are lifted, 1 to 1 1/2 minutes. Fold the egg whites thoroughly but gently into the chocolate mixture in two batches.

Spoon the batter into the prepared cans, dividing in evenly among them. Bake the cakes until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, about 20 minutes. Do not overbake; the cake should remain soft and moist in the center.

Remove the cans from the oven, place them on a wire rack and let the cakes cool completely in the cans.

When the cakes have cooled, invert the cans over the wire rack to release the cakes. Peel off the parchment paper and place the cakes upright on the rack. Pour about 3 tablespoons of lukewarm ganache (recipe follows) over each cake, using a spatula to smooth the icing all over. Let the cakes stand until ganache is firm, about 1 hour. The tortes will keep, covered in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 days.

Yield: 3 tortes. Serves 3.

Approximate nutrition per serving: 792 calories, 55 grams fat (26 grams saturated, 56 percent fat calories), 14.6 grams protein, 65 grams carbohydrate, 202 milligrams cholesterol, 5.6 grams dietary fiber, 154 milligrams sodium.

Rich Ganache

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons whipping (heavy) cream

5 ounces imported bittersweet chocolate (such as Lindt), finely chopped.

Pour the cream into a small saucepan and bring to a boil over medium high heat. Immediately remove the pan from the heat and add the chocolate, swirling to submerge the chocolate in the hot cream. Let the mixture stand until the chocolate softens, 1 minute. Then stir with a whisk until the chocolate is melted and the mixture is smooth. Allow it to cool to lukewarm, about 1 hour. Then use immediately.

Yield: About 1/2 cup

Peanut Butter Tarts

From “Small-Batch Baking,” by Debby Maugans Nakos

Unsalted butter at room temperature, for greasing the tart pans

For the crust:

2/3 cup crushed cream-filled chocolate wafer cookies (such as Oreos)

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted

For the filling:

1 large egg

1/2 cup sugar

2 tablespoons creamy peanut butter

2 tablespoons sour cream

1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

For the glaze and garnish:

1 tablespoon whipping cream

1 teaspoon light corn syrup

1 1/2 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped

Peanut brittle or chopped peanuts (for garnish)

Pans required: Two 4-by-1 3/8 inch tart pans with removable bottoms

Preheat the over to 325 degrees.

Line the tart pans with aluminum foil, pressing the foil into the grooves of the pans. Lightly grease the foil. Place the tart pans on a baking sheet for easier handling.

To make the crust: place the crushed cookies and the melted butter in a food processor and process until the cookies are finely ground, about 45 seconds. Spread the cookie mixture on the bottom and up the sides of the prepared tart pans, pressing it firmly into he grooves of the pans. Bake the crusts until the color is beginning to deepen, 12 minutes.

Remove from oven. Transfer the tart pans to a wire rack to cool while you prepare the filling. Keep the oven on.

To make the filling: Place the egg, sugar, peanut butter, sour cream and vanilla in a medium size mixing bowl and whisk until smooth. Spoon the filling into the prepared tart shells dividing it evenly between them. Bake the tarts on the baking sheet until the filling is set in the center about 15 minutes.

Remove from the oven and cool tart pans on a wire rack.

To make the glaze: Place the cream and corn syrup in a small microwave-safe bowl and microwave on high power until boiling, 24 to 30 seconds. Add the chocolate and swirl the bowl to submerge the chocolate in the hot cream mixture. Let the mixture stand until the chocolate softens, about 1 minute. Then stir until the chocolate melts and the glaze is smooth. Let the glaze cool, stirring it occasionally, until it thickens slightly but is still spreadable, about 10 minutes.

Spoon the glaze over the tarts, spreading it right to the edges. Stand the shards of peanut brittle in the glaze or sprinkle peanuts over the glaze. Refrigerate the tarts for 2 hours before serving. (The tarts will keep, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.)

Yield: 2 individual-serving tarts

Approximate nutrition per serving: 599 calories, 30 grams fat (14 grams saturated, 43 percent fat calories), 9.5 grams protein, 79 grams carbohydrate, 138 milligrams cholesterol, 2.6 grams dietary fiber, 194 milligrams sodium.

Irresistible Oatmeal Cookies

From “Small-Batch Baking,” by Debby Maugans Nakos

4 tablespoons ( 1/2 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1/3 cup sugar

1 teaspoon well stirred sour cream

1 tablespoon well beaten egg or egg substitute

1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons all purpose flour

1/8 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon (optional)

Pinch of salt

1/2 cup old fashioned rolled oats

1/4 cup raisins

1/4 cup chopped pecans, toasted (optional)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper, and set it aside.

Place the butter, sugar and sour cream in a medium size mixing bowl and beat with a hand-held electric mixer until creamy, about 1 minute, scraping the bowl once or twice. Add the beaten egg and vanilla and beat until the mixture is well-blended, 30 to 45 seconds.

Place the flour, baking soda, cinnamon if using and salt in a small bowl and whisk to blend. Add the flour mixture to the butter mixture and stir well with a wooden spoon. Stir in the oats, raisins and pecans, if using.

Drop spoonfuls on the dough onto the prepared cookie sheet to make 8 equal-size mounds and space them 1 1/2 to 2 inches apart. Bake the cookie until golden brown, about 15 minutes.

Remove the baking sheet from the oven, transfer parchment to a wire rack and let the cookies cool completely. Gently peel them off the parchment before serving.

Note: if you like crisp oatmeal cookies, omit the sour cream and reduce the flour to 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons. Bake for 17 minutes.

Yield: 8 cookies

Approximate nutrition per cookie: 183 calories, 8.9 grams fat (3.9 grams saturated, 42 percent fat calories), 2.5 grams protein, 24.9 grams carbohydrate, 15 milligrams cholesterol, 1.4 grams dietary fiber, 25.8 milligrams sodium.