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Minutes away from gourmet

Lorie Hutson Food editor

It has all of the hallmarks of a fussy and intimidating cookbook: It’s big. It’s full of stunning photographs. The word “gourmet” appears on the cover along with the name of America’s premier culinary college.

But crack the cover of this tome, and you’ll find that the Culinary Institute of America’s “Gourmet Meals in Minutes” cookbook is fun, inspiring and perfect for this season.

Whether you think it is truly fast will depend on your definition. It’s not as fast as the Wendy’s drive-through (where they dangle your meal out the window before you’ve finished paying for it), but if your pantry is well-stocked, you’ll only need to grab a few fresh ingredients for most dishes. Many of the recipes take at least 45 minutes to make from start to finish and some will take longer if you choose the suggested side dishes. For me, that’s just enough time to wind down in the kitchen but not so long that my tummy tires of the wait.

This book will tempt you to linger in the produce section or pick up some of the gorgeous fruits and vegetables that will be overflowing at the farmers’ markets soon. Chef John DeShetler has taken care to include recipes that are simple preparations to show off those fresh ingredients. Cappellini with Grilled Vegetables, Pesto-Stuffed Chicken Breasts with Tomato Relish, Panzanella (a bread salad with fresh tomatoes), Roasted Beet Salad and Stir Fried Garden Vegetables, are just a few examples.

If you aspire to cook dishes that you might find on restaurant or bistro menus, this is a perfect start. You won’t have to stop at any specialty markets. Almost everything in this book is now on the shelves of a well-stocked supermarket. DeShetler includes tips and step-by-step techniques (in words and pictures). Learn how to deglaze a pan to make sauce, create the perfect consistency for an elegant cream soup and cook fish en papillote. Each chapter opens with some basics, and useful tips and charts are scattered throughout.

Another part that I love is that DeShetler suggests the accompaniments to complement the main dish and put together a gorgeous plate. The photographs alone are delicious.

We tried the super-simple Seared Tuna with Salsa Verde (recipe follows). The salsa is quick enough once the chopping is done, and the fish takes mere minutes in the pan. Served rare with a black bean salad, the meal was delicious and quick enough that I would serve it to guests on a busy night.

I’ve used the book for the guacamole and hummus as well as chutney. All were delicious and easily done. We’ve grilled flank steak and lemon-garlic chicken, and before the end of the summer I know I’ll make the beef skewers with peanut sauce. When the best of the fresh-food season peaks and turns toward fall, I’ll make the Pork Medallions with Apple Chutney once more, as well as the Roasted Carrots and Parsnips with Herbs.

The Fresh Fruit Galette (recipe follows) will be amazing with local cherries, berries and peaches. And, oh yes, the Vol-au-Vents with fresh berries and cream.

I could go on and on… but who has time for it?

Seared Tuna with Salsa Verde

In this simple dish, we prefer the fish rare; simply increase the cooking time if you like your fish more well-done. This dish makes an impressive entrée for guests, yet it’s deceptively simple to prepare.

2 1/4 pounds yellowfin tuna fillet

Ground cumin, to taste

Salt, to taste

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

3 tablespoons olive oil, divided

For the Salsa Verde:

1/2 cup tomatillos, finely chopped

1/2 jalapeno, seeded and finely chopped

1/2 cup onions, finely chopped

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

1/2 tablespoon honey

Juice of 1/2 lime

1/2 bunch cilantro, rinsed, dried, finely chopped

2 teaspoons parsley, finely chopped

Clean the skin and bloodline from the tuna, if necessary. Slice the tuna into 6 even portions. Season the fish with cumin, salt and pepper. Refrigerate until needed.

To make the salsa verde, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Cook the tomatillos, jalapeno and onion until very brown, about 8 to 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook briefly. Season to taste with honey, lime, salt and pepper. Stir in the cilantro and parsley. Reserve until needed.

Heat the remaining oil in a large sauté pan over very high heat until the oil is almost smoking. Gently lay the tuna steaks in the pan and brown on each side for about 1 minute, for rare tuna. Place the tuna on warm plates and spoon about 1 1/2 tablespoons of the salsa verde on top.

Yield: 6 servings

Approximate nutrition per serving: Unable to calculate.

Fresh Fruit Galette

From The Culinary Institute of America’s Gourmet Meals in Minutes

1 quart of fruit, firm-fleshed (pears, apples, peaches, apricots, cherries, etc.)

1 package puff pastry dough, thawed

6 tablespoons apricot jam, strained, warm

1 egg

1 teaspoon water

1/2 cup coarse sugar

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Wash, peel, trim, core and slice the fruit as needed. Let the dough relax just a few minutes, but work quickly enough that it does not get too soft and pliable.

Roll the dough slightly until it is 12 inches square and of uniform thickness.

Cut four 6-inch round circles out of each sheet of dough. (Use a small plate as a guide.) Lay the pastry circles onto baking sheets that have been lined with parchment. Refrigerate the dough for 5 to 10 minutes if it’s too soft. Spread 1/2 teaspoon of the apricot jam in the center of the circle, leaving a 1-inch border around the edge of the dough. Fold a 1/2 -inch section of dough up onto the fruit, pressing gently so that it adheres slightly. Crimp another 1/2 -inch section of dough up onto the fruit and lightly press the dough that overlaps together. Crimp the remaining dough around the fruit. The fruit should be barely encased inside the dough.

Repeat with remaining galettes.

Mix the egg with the water to make an egg wash.

Lightly brush the dough and the crimped seams with the egg wash. Sprinkle coarse sugar on the egg wash. Lightly brush the dough and the crimped seams with the egg wash. Sprinkle coarse sugar on the egg wash. Bake at 350 degrees for about 30 minutes or until golden brown and baked through.

Yield: 8 servings

Approximate nutrition per serving: Unable to calculate due to recipe variables.