Skillet Lasagna a tasty quick-fix main dish

Known for its exhaustive testing, precision and step-by-step instructions, America’s Test Kitchen has unlocked the secret to delicious inexpensive steaks, grilled pizza, chicken dinner and even beef curry.

Its latest cookbook, “Cooking at Home with America’s Test Kitchen,” is the companion to the 2006 public television show. It includes the signature ingredient testing, tips and techniques that will help novice cooks get it right. But there are plenty of secrets to be found for more advanced cooks.

There are times when it will feel like America’s Test Kitchen is being a little too fussy, but the result is always worth the extra work.

Here’s a recipe for Skillet Lasagna from the book. Editors warn that it may not look like much while it’s cooking, but the result is a lovely layered lasagna that comes together after 20 minutes on the stove.

Skillet Lasagna

From “Cooking at Home with America’s Test Kitchen”

Meatloaf mix is a combination of ground beef, pork and veal, sold prepackaged in many supermarkets. If it’s unavailable, use ground beef. A 12-inch nonstick skillet with a tight-fitting lid works best for this recipe.

1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes

Water

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 medium onion, minced

Salt

3 medium garlic cloves, minced or put through a garlic press (about 1 tablespoon)

1/8 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 pound meatloaf mix or ground beef

10 curly-edged lasagna noodles, broken into 2-inch lengths

1 (8-ounce) can tomato sauce

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese

Ground black pepper

1 cup ricotta cheese

3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil leaves

Pour the tomatoes with their juices into a 1-quart liquid measuring cup. Add water until the mixture measures 1 quart.

Heat the oil in large nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add the onion and 1/2 teaspoon salt and cook until the onion begins to brown, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the ground meat and cook, breaking apart the meat until no longer pink, about 4 minutes.

Scatter the pasta over the meat but do not stir. Pour the diced tomatoes with their juices and tomato sauce over the pasta. Cover and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the pasta is tender, about 20 minutes.

Remove the skillet from the heat and stir in the 1/2 cup Parmesan. Season with salt and pepper. Dot with heaping tablespoons of the ricotta, cover and let stand off the heat for 5 minutes. Sprinkle with the basil and the remaining 2 tablespoons of Parmesan. Serve.

Variation: Follow the recipe for Skillet Lasagna, substituting 1 pound Italian sausage, removed from its casing, for the meatloaf mix. Add 1 chopped red bell pepper to the skillet with the onion in step 2.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

Approximate nutrition per serving (based on 6): 389 calories, 16 grams fat (7 grams saturated, 37 percent fat calories), 20 grams protein, 41 grams carbohydrate, 37 milligrams cholesterol, 4 grams dietary fiber, 801 milligrams sodium.