Donald Clegg : First frost spells doom for many veggies

Well, my warm weather veggies gave it a good run, right to the 10th of October, but a hard frost finally finished them. They’ve been very much a presence, though, as we had a fridge full of peppers, corn, tomatillos and the last of the cukes and string beans. Bowls of ripe and green tomatoes are still waiting. They might be turned into sauce or juice, or fried, if green.

I always imagine that the garden also has four seasons – the spring greens and fall squash equinoxes, as well as the summer tomato solstice. Winter is the odd one out – the memory of the other three – in the garden bounty I put up throughout the season. For once, I might have frozen enough “V-8 or 9 or so” to make it through the spring, and I know darn well I have enough dried Sun Gold tomatoes for lavish use until next year’s crop.

That first frost is always a loss, of sorts, but it also announces the pleasures of my favorite time of year. Pumpkins and winter squash are finally clearly visible, now that their leaf camouflage has wilted, and the turning autumn leaves are one of my great pleasures. (I hope the pumpkin thieves who took five of my eight gourds feel really bad, too, or at least drop them on their toes.)

There’s still the cold-hardy fare: chard, carrots, kale, as well as onions to pull and garlic to dig. And apples, and…well, like fall-chubby squirrels, I’m just awash in seasonal bounty. The main difference is that they fatten up now, then lose it over the long winter, while I go the other way.

Speaking of fattening up, frost, cold mornings, chilly nights – all the warnings of winter – also signal a change in cooking. Summer’s lighter fare changes to the soup and comfort food season, where indoor cooking once again holds sway. I’m not sure right now if I still carry the odor of the grill around (probably), but it’ll be a nice change to bring the smells of the kitchen indoors, rather than just following my smoky self around.

Here’s one of my fall and winter favorites. The wild rice adds contrast and a nutty flavor. Risotto is a great way to use up leftovers, too. So, use your imagination with any extras you’d like to add. Remember, all the stirring adds character, both to you and the rice.

Risotto with Shiitakes and Sun-Dried Tomatoes

8 dried shiitake mushrooms, chopped small

About 6 cups chicken stock, preferably homemade

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 1/2 cups Arborio rice

1/4 cup wild rice

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 cup sun-dried tomatoes, chopped both small and large (for different hits of flavor)

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

1 teaspoon sweet paprika

Kosher salt and fresh-cracked black pepper, to taste

Cover mushrooms with water, and soak overnight, or until reconstituted and soft. (You can speed it up by heating in the microwave first.) Squeeze out water, reserving juices. Pour juices into a medium saucepan, along with the stock, and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer.

Meanwhile, prep everything else. Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large saucepan on medium-high. Add rices and garlic; sauté until wild rice grains pop, about 3-4 minutes. Add sun-dried tomatoes, vinegar, paprika and salt and pepper. Reduce heat to medium.

Pour in a cup of warm stock; stir continuously on medium to medium low. When bottom of pan starts to show add more stock, 1/2 cup at a time. Continue for 25 minutes. Adjust with more stock, if you like it runnier, or reduce a few minutes longer, if you like it thicker.

Yield: 6 servings

Approximate nutrition per serving: 337 calories, 11.6 grams fat (2 grams saturated, 31 percent fat calories), 6.5 grams protein, 52 grams carbohydrate, 5 milligrams cholesterol, 3 grams dietary fiber, 592 milligrams sodium.

Simple Stock

Leftover carcass of one chicken (for extra flavor, set aside the back and giblets for the stock)

1 medium yellow onion, cut in quarters, skin on

2 stalks celery, cut in half and bruised

2 cloves garlic, crushed, skins on

1 bay leaf

Generous pinch kosher salt

Optional: 24 cracked black peppercorns

Save everything from a chicken, as you finish it, in a self-sealing bag. If, along the way, you have any extra vegetable trimmings (e.g., bell pepper or scallion trimmings, carrot peels, etc.) save them, as well. Throw all ingredients into a stockpot and cover with 12 cups of water. Bring just to a boil, then simmer, uncovered, for 2 to 3 hours (or longer), occasionally skimming foam. Strain, put back on stove and reduce to 6 cups. Cool, refrigerate overnight, skim off fat, and freeze in freezer bag for later use.

Yield: 6 cups stock