Seasonal beauty
To the gutsy souls on the Oregon Trail, their destination’s milder climate and spectacular beauty made it the Promised Land.
For many a summer visitor, it still is – except for the tourist throngs and the relentless caravan of motor homes that travel U.S. Route 101.
But who knew that the area enjoys a midwinter mellowing of good weather around the middle of February? Even the relatives and friends we visit there had never mentioned it.
During a recent trip to explore the Central Coast, the secret was finally out. Now we look forward to a Valentine’s getaway, too. In fact, one could spend years revisiting Oregon’s coastal treasures in all seasons and never see it all.
In the past, we’ve always driven straight up or down the Pacific Coast Scenic Byway, known as Route 101, to begin our coastal visits. This time, we stayed inland on Interstate 5 South until Salem before turning west, on State Routes 22 and 18, which cut through the farmlands of the northern Willamette Valley. Filberts and hops abound, along with a llama farm and, high atop a utility pole, an osprey nest.
We wound north on 101, through the Cascade Head and a forest primeval of madrona, hemlock and Sitka spruce, an area owned and cared for by the Nature Conservancy.
Continuing on to Pacific City, the sunset provided a stunning backdrop for Cape Kiwanda’s Haystack Rock, just a mile offshore from the Pelican Pub and Brewery. The dory fleet that launches from the area supplies the restaurant’s fresh fish.
We topped off our dinner of the signature wild salmon, soba noodles and flash-sautéed Asian vegetables with one of the fine microbrews, which have garnered more than 60 awards in the last decade.
After heading south once again on 101, an unparalleled, 180-degree ocean view delighted us at the Inn at Spanish Head in Lincoln City, our stop for the night. Strolling the beach would have to wait until morning; for now, we were content to let the waves rock us to sleep.
A lovely breakfast at the penthouse Fathoms Restaurant completed the picture. We were ready to head out for the day.
Years ago, we’d discovered our very own Japanese aqua fishing float at Cannon Beach. The prospect of finding anything like it in today’s age of plastics seemed dim until we learned of Lincoln City’s Finders Keepers program. From Oct. 1 through Memorial Day weekend, public beaches are seeded with handcrafted glass floats, signed and numbered by the artists who made them. We were off on a treasure hunt.
The antique shops and used bookstores that abound here beckoned, too, followed by a visit to the outlet malls. As usual, a foot-dragging spouse ended up finding the most bargains. But it was easy to make up for that at the intriguing Alder House Glassblowing Studio and Mossy Creek Pottery.
For lunch, we sampled the gourmet offerings of Chef Rob Pounding at the Blackfish Cafe, finishing up with the not-to-be missed Ding Dong Dessert of dark chocolate, marionberries and whipped cream.
Years ago, we had a great family reunion weekend at what is now the four-diamond Salishan Spa and Golf Resort in Gleneden Beach, so we decided to stop there once again to see what’s new besides the completely renovated golf course. (Guests also have free access to an 18-hole putting course.)
The pièce de résistance is the addition of the Oregon Coast’s first destination spa. Overlooking Siletz Bay, an Audubon Sanctuary where migratory birds like the snowy egret gather, it is a study in tranquility.
We headed next for the world’s smallest navigable harbor, Depoe Bay, where the channel entering the harbor is just 50 feet at its widest point. It’s also one of the best places to whale watch during the December through early February migration south, or the whales’ return at the beginning of March through April.
Oregon’s newest state park, the Depoe Bay Whale Watching Center, is home to the informative Whale Watching Spoken Here program.
Because the bay is ringed with kelp beds, a haven for the tiny mysid shrimp these behemoths feed on, some grays can be found in the area at any time of year. During the summer, curious and playful, they sometimes come right into the bay itself.
One astounded visitor was perched on the sea wall (which runs almost the full length of the town) when a gray giant passed in the waters right beneath him. “Wow,” he said, “that sure doesn’t happen in Wisconsin.”
In winter, Depoe Bay is also one of the best places to watch the “spouting horns” – plumes of water shot into the air by ocean waves crashing against rock formations.
Farther down Route 101, we turned off at Otter Crest Loop to visit the point dubbed Cape Foulweather by Captain Cook and since renamed Otter Crest. Such a sweeping coastal vista lay before us atop the 450-foot summit that we decided to return later for dinner and more of that view at the Flying Dutchman Restaurant in the lushly landscaped Inn at Otter Crest.
Just ahead lies Devil’s Punchbowl, a geologic wonder said to have been created by the collapse of a sea cave roof. Nearby this coastal surfing Mecca, there’s a tidepool area reached by turning off 101 at milepost 132.5.
Marine discoveries filled the next day as we continued south past Beverly Beach, renowned for its kite boarding, and Yaquina Head, the site of Oregon’s tallest and second oldest active lighthouse.
Newport’s Yaquina Bay is one of the few remaining working harbors along the Oregon coast and home to the state’s largest commercial fishing fleet. It’s also home to the Oregon Coast Aquarium, ranked one of the top 10 in the country, which includes the largest walk-through seabird aviary in North America.
Indoor exhibits feature marine life found in wetlands, sandy and rocky shores and the deep waters of the Pacific Ocean. Outdoors, we found sea otters, seals, sea lions and a giant Pacific octopus.
The nearby Hatfield Marine Science Center uses conceptual models to translate research into usable real-life results, such as mimicking the ecosystem to produce sustained yields of fish.
Another one-of-a-kind attraction, Marine Discovery Tours, is the official cruise company of the Oregon Coast Aquarium. From families to entire school or tour bus groups, it offers the opportunity to experience an informative, two-hour sea life cruise from March to October. (At other times, inquire about the availability of bay cruises.)
Once at the bottom of an ancient sea, Oregon’s sandy beaches and bluffs are also known for their shells, sand dollars, agates and, because of their origin, a wide variety of prehistoric marine and mammal-bone fossils. Winter storms rake back the sands to expose the fossils and agates that beachcombers seek, still another good reason to visit then.
A small group field trip with Newport’s “Oregon Fossil Guy,” Guy Di Torrice, can help you navigate the various geologic sites. Visitors are also allowed to carry home as much driftwood as they can carry.
From our room in the Best Western Agate Beach Inn that night, we were able to see the beams of the 19th century lighthouse to the north, still doing its navigation thing.
Agate Beach is a popular windsurfing site, but we choose to enjoy the comfort of the inn’s indoor heated pool.
Just north of Waldport, it would be hard to miss the stunning off-shore rock formations of Seal Rock State Recreation Site, home to seals, sea lions, sea birds and other marine life as well as tidepool residents. The National Audubon Society has designated Waldport’s Alsea Bay coastal estuary an Important Bird Area.
Equally fascinating is the Alsea Bay Interpretive Center at the south end of the stunning Alsea Bay Bridge, which documents the story of the original bridge, built in 1936 by master bridge builder Conde B. McCullough, and replaced in 1991. Ten Oregon Coast bridges are on the National Registry.
The Kayak Shack, a rental operation run by local high school students, offers the chance to discover, as they put it, “the tranquil beauty” of Alsea Bay and its surrounding watershed “from the same perspective as river otters, wading herons, and a wealth of other wildlife.”
Harbor seals sunned on the sand banks as we drove south toward Yachats (pronounced YAH-hots) and Cape Perpetua. One of the most geologically stable towns on the coast, Yachats and the area south to Florence are built on an ancient lava flow that extends from sea level to 800 feet above.
Just to the east of Route 101, the Siuslaw National Forest’s 12 hiking trails range from easy to difficult. Fishing, camping, mountain biking, bird watching, hunting and wildlife viewing are some of the other ways to enjoy the unspoiled beauty here.
On a clear day you can see forever from the 803-foot Cape Perpetua lookout, the highest point on the Oregon Coast. Beach, tidal pools and 23 miles of year-round hiking trails through the area’s rain forest round out this scenic paradise.
The Interpretive Center, open from Memorial Day through September and during Whale Watch Weeks and other special events, offers exhibits, films and naturalist-led walks.
We would have liked to walk off an absolutely scrumptious dinner at the Adobe Resort on the historic Yachats 804 Trail in front of the Fireside Motel (ask for their trail guide), but it was getting dark so we headed instead for our ocean-view room at the Overleaf Lodge next door. It will be hard to decide which of these three lovely places to choose for our next stay.
The last day of our visit, we headed back north on 101, then east along Yaquina Bay Road Scenic Route as it follows the Yaquina River from Newport to Toledo. Great blue heron, ducks, cormorants and kingfishers fished the shorelines of the bay at Sally’s Bend.
En route, we stopped at the Oregon Oyster Farm outside Newport. Restaurants from New York City to China order its farmed Pacific and Kumomoto oysters, and a taste test told us why.
Built on hills somewhat reminiscent of its Spanish namesake’s, Toledo boasts a burgeoning community of artists, craftsmen and antique dealers.
Reluctantly, we headed east on U.S. Route 20 to I-5 North and homeward. But we’ll soon wend our way back.
Valentine’s Day is coming and, in all seasons, this is a place for romance.