Cookbook review: A practical homage to salmon

Quick look: Salmon, rich in flavor and omega-3s, is a Pacific Northwest staple. This go-to guide discusses everything from the life cycle of this “fantastical fish” to differences between Atlantic and Pacific species, health benefits and, of course, several dozen inspiring recipes.

What’s inside: In her second salmon cookbook, award-winning Portland-based food writer Diane Morgan offers an homage to one of her favorite seafoods.

“Salmon is a glorious fish – a fish that we need to respect and protect so that it can provide us pleasure and sustenance forever,” she writes before taking readers through the entire process of preparation – from cleaning freshly caught wild salmon to removing pin bones and brining, which helps hamper the secretion of albumen, the white protein between muscles fiber that seeps out during cooking.

The 45 recipes are divided into five chapters by category: raw and cured, on the stove top, in the oven, on the grill and second helpings, which is dedicated to leftovers.

Look for Salmon Carpaccio with Celery Root Slaw, Salmon Ceviche, Tea-Smoked Salmon, Green Curry Braised Salmon, Salmon Broiled with Sake and Miso Glaze and Low-Tech Sous-Vide Salmon with Sorrel Butter. Ideas for leftovers include Salmon Hash with Yukon Gold Potatoes and Herbs, Poached Eggs and Smoked Salmon on Tapenade Mayonnaise-Smeared Bread, Salmon Banh Mi and Asian-inspired Salmon Salad Rolls in rice paper wrappers with rice vermicelli, green onions and Hoisin-Peanut Dipping Sauce.

What’s not: While images by San Francisco-based photographer Leigh Beisch are gorgeous and richly hued, there isn’t one for each recipe.

Salmon Ceviche

From “Salmon: Everything You Need to Know” by Diane Morgan

Spoon the ceviche into stemware for a dressed-up look or serve it in a bowl or tortillas for a more casual affair.

1 medium ripe mango, peeled, pitted and cut into 1/4-inch dice

1 small red bell pepper, seeded, deribbed and cut into 1/4-inch dice

1 small jalapeno or serrano chili, stemmed halved lengthwise seeded, deribbed and minced

1/2 cup chopped fresh green cilantro leaves

1/3 cup finely diced red onion

2 tablespoons lime juice, plus 1/3 cup, plus 1 lime, cut into 6 wedges

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons fine sea salt

1 (12-ounce) center-cut salmon fillet, skin and pin bones removed

In a medium bowl, combine the mango, bell pepper, chili, cilantro, red onion, 2 tablespoons lime juice, olive oil and 1 teaspoon of the salt. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to 8 hours.

Meanwhile, using a very sharp knife, cut the salmon into ¼-inch dice. Place the salmon in a medium bowl. (At this point, the salmon can be tightly covered and refrigerated for up to 4 hours.) Gently fold in the remaining 1/3 cup lime juice and the remaining 1 teaspoon salt. Cover and refrigerate to “cook” the salmon in the citrus for at least 30 minutes, or up to 1 hour.

When ready to serve, pour off the lime juice from the salmon. Gently fold the salmon into the mango mixture. Spoon into martini or margarita glasses and garnish each serving with a lime wedge.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings as an appetizer or first course