Perfect pears

In the season of fuss and fancy, here’s a bit of simplicity that still feels like indulgence: poached pears.

Pears can’t help but look elegant, whether served alone with a bit of whipped cream or a drizzle of chocolate, or alongside a wedge of spice cake or sorbet. The recipe for poached pears lends itself to flexibility in cooking and presentation that will make it look easy to please almost anyone.

The basic recipe can be adapted to use honey rather than sugar. Choose any combination of spices to add to the simmering liquid – cinnamon stick, star anise, whole cloves, allspice, slices of fresh ginger, a split vanilla bean, whole peppercorns or a lemon or orange half are all great additions. Don’t get too aggressive with the spices, enhancing the natural flavor of the pears is the goal.

While most pears can be poached, softer fruit such as Bartlett or Comice pears tend to fall apart in the poaching liquid. Bosc pears are a favorite for poaching and abundant this time of year. Tiny Seckel pears great, too, although they can be difficult to find. Just be sure to start with ripe, yet firm fruit. Pears are ripe when the neck yields to pressure from a thumb.

Pears can be poached whole for a dramatic presentation, or cut into halves or quarters. Many recipes call for wine in the poaching liquid. Choose red wine and the finished pears will have a lovely ruby color. Substitute wine for some or all of the poaching liquid, if desired.

Once the pears are soft, they can be served warm or at room temperature. Allow the pears to cool in the poaching liquid. Remove with a slotted spoon, remove the spices and then reduce the cooking liquid by half. Serve pears topped with the sauce.

Here is a simple recipe adapted from chef and cookbook author David Lebovitz.

Poached Winter Pears

1 quart water

1 heaping cup granulated sugar

6 Bosc pears, peeled, cored and halved or quartered

Additions: 1 cinnamon stick; 1 teaspoon whole cloves, black peppercorns or allspice berries, 1 lemon or orange half, 1 split vanilla bean, 2-3 star anise, 6-8 fresh ginger slices

In a saucepan, heat the water and sugar until warm and the sugar is dissolved. Add any of the additions desired to the poaching liquid.

Peel, core and cut the pears and place them into the poaching liquid. (For whole pears, core from the bottom and cut off slice so that they can sit upright). Pears that are not covered by the poaching liquid can brown. Lebovitz suggests cutting a round piece of parchment paper with a small hole in the middle to cover the pears during cooking to prevent it.

Simmer pears until cooked through, about 15-25 minutes. Test pears by poking them with a paring knife. They are done when there is no resistance.

Remove from heat and allow pears to cool in poaching liquid. Remove with a slotted spoon and strain out the spices. Boil liquid gently to reduce by half.

Serve pears warm or at room temperature with a bit of the sauce. The pears can be served alone or any number of ways, including alongside gingerbread cake, whipped cream, salted caramel ice cream or drizzled with chocolate.

Yield: 4-6 servings