Feteers offers a taste of Egypt
If your bank account won’t quite stretch to a trip to Cairo, you can enjoy the flavors of Egypt right here in northwest Spokane.
On May 1, Amir Talib and his wife, Leila Altassan, opened Feteers restaurant on Northwest Boulevard.
The star of the menu is feteer – one of the oldest prepared foods in the world.
Egyptian feteer is a traditional pastry made from dozens of paper-thin layers of dough brushed with clarified butter (samna, similar to Indian ghee), creating a flaky, buttery texture.
It’s often described as Egyptian pizza because of its versatility. The dough can be stuffed with savory fillings (meat, cheese, sausage) or sweet toppings (honey, cream, nuts).
“In Egypt, it’s like burgers here,” Talib said. “Everyone eats it all day long.”
The art of making feteer requires skill and patience. The dough is stretched incredibly thin – almost translucent – then layered with generous amounts of samna. The process is repeated multiple times as the dough is repeatedly folded and to achieve its flaky layers.
Who knows? If not for this ancient recipe, the pyramids may not exist.
Historical records and recipes found in tombs indicate that this layered pastry was often baked for kings and priests and served as a ritual offering to the gods. Some believe its dense caloric combination of flour, milk and honey provided fuel for the laborers tasked with building the iconic monuments.
“It’s very popular in Egypt – the recipe is handed down through families,” said Talib. “It takes a lot of time to make the dough.”
Offering this traditional food in their new country has been the couple’s dream since they arrived in Spokane 20 years ago.
Talib said the most popular savory options are the chicken shawarma and the Pyramid, so we tried both.
After ordering at the counter, watching the cook roll, stretch, and toss the thin dough prompted awe-struck wows.
“Everything is made to order so it comes out fresh,” explained Talib.
The chicken shawarma is filled with seasoned chicken, mozzarella, cheddar, tomato, olives and green pepper. Cheeses, chicken and seasonings blend in each melt-in-your-mouth bite.
Loaded with gyro meat, beef sausage, mozzarella, cheddar, tomato, olives and green pepper, the Pyramid bursts with Mediterranean flavor.
Non-meat-eaters can sink their teeth into two cheese-filled options, while those who want to mix American cuisine with Egyptian can sample a hot dog feteer.
The savory varieties come with a side of house-made ranch/mayo dip that adds a cool zip to the feteers.
Dessert is a must if you want to experience the full range of this delightful dough.
“The Dubai chocolate is our No. 1 seller,” Talib said. “It’s very tasty.”
Featuring pistachio cream and premium imported chocolate, it’s a decadent experience.
Other sweet offerings include those filled with Nutella, classic custard or honey and cream.
If you want to add to your meal or enjoy a lighter bite, you can order a serving of dolma. The grape leaves stuffed with seasoned rice and fresh Mediterranean herbs are proving popular, as is the baba ghanoush. The smoky roasted eggplant blended with tahini, garlic and lemon is served with fresh bread.
A variety of imported drinks tempts thirsty diners from a refrigerated case. Vimto is a sweet, mixed fruit cordial that offers a refreshing sip, and Moussy is a crisp, nonalcoholic malt beverage. Guests also rave about the piping hot Turkish coffee.
Talib said they are gradually expanding the menu, so as not to overwhelm the kitchen staff, and plan to offer catering services soon. Also in the works – a special treat for those who dine in at the 32-seat venue.
“We’re going to have Egyptian dancing – dinner and a show,” he said.
He hopes this unique ancestral food will find a fervent following.
“So far, everybody loves it. No one else serves this in Washington,” said Talib. “It’s new to the U.S., with only five restaurants serving it. Hopefully, we can franchise nationwide.”
Contact Cindy Hval at dchval@juno.com.