Flavors Of Japan Land Of The Rising Sun Is Home To Foods That Are Fresh And Beautiful

Japan has come to be recognized the world over for its level of excellence in the manufacture of high-tech gadgets and gizmos. But this attention to detail, this dedication to quality, did not begin with the production of sophisticated automobiles and electronics.

As far back as one looks into the history of this island country, it’s clear that the Japanese have an acute eye for detail and a love of beauty. One of the most pleasurable aspects of Japanese culture to illustrate this point is the cuisine.

Japanese food is at once simple and complex. Compared to Western cuisines and those of China, Korea and other Asian countries, Japanese food is much more mild and natural, always containing the freshest ingredients available. This is partly because of the deep respect the Japanese have for nature; they believe that the natural form and flavor of the ingredients should be preserved as much as possible.

The complexity of Japanese food comes not in the actual making of each dish, but in the care that is taken both in the selection of ingredients and in the serving of the finished product. In Japan, it is said a truly fine meal will please not only the palate, but all of the senses.

Even the texture of the food is taken into careful consideration. The cook selects ingredients not only for their flavor, but for the color that each will lend to the finished dish.

As much as possible, Japanese cooks use fruits and vegetables that are in season at the time. Spring brings such wild plants as seri (watercress) and warabi (fern shoots). With summer comes such garden vegetables as lettuce, tomatoes, eggplants, peas, beans and cucumbers.

A wild mushroom harvest takes place in autumn, when pine forests abound with the large matsutake. In winter, meals contain a number of root vegetables such as carrots, turnips and daikon, a large white radish.

Such fresh products of the sea as cod, tuna, sea bass and yellowtail can be found in fish markets year-round, along with octopus, sea urchin and various kinds of edible seaweed.

Among the foods considered everyday staples in the Japanese diet, the first is rice. Rice plays such a central role in Japanese cuisine that the word for cooked rice, “gohan,” has come to mean “food” in the Japanese language. While a traditional Japanese meal has no designated main dish, rice is the most important food served; side dishes are intended to complement the taste of the cooked rice.

Nearly as ubiquitous in the Japanese diet, but offering more variety, are noodles. The most common are brown noodles made from buckwheat flour, called soba - round, firm-textured noodles often served cold with dipping sauce, or in a bowl of hot broth.

Another popular noodle is udon, thick, white wheat noodles usually served in hot broth with other ingredients. And in the spring and summer, thin somen noodles, made from a wheat dough to which sesame oil has been added, are available in a variety of colors and flavors. They are usually served cold with a dipping sauce and condiments.

Soybean products are another staple in Japanese cuisine. Soy sauce is used as commonly as salt is in Western cooking. Fermented soybean paste, or miso, resembles peanut butter in consistency and is made in a variety of colors and textures, each with its own distinctive aroma and flavor.

Another important soy product, and one gaining an increasing presence on Western menus, is tofu. Also known as bean curd, tofu is a white, custard-like food made from processed soy milk, extolled by nutritionists as an excellent meatless source of protein.

Western dishes tend to be characterized by their main ingredients. For example, a typical Western cookbook is divided into such sections as meats and poultry; vegetables; pasta, rice and grains, etc. When planning a meal, the Western chef will strive for a salad, a main dish, and side dishes that go well together and satisfy the four basic food groups.

Japanese food, on the other hand, is categorized by method of preparation. A Japanese chef seeks a variety of dishes from the different cooking categories.

Nimono includes dishes made by gently boiling or simmering such ingredients as vegetables, meat or fish in a seasoned broth. Yakimono is food prepared by broiling, usually over a charcoal fire.

Tempura, deep-fried food in batter that is one of the most common Japanese dishes in North America, belongs to the group agemono. Nabemono consists of hearty meat, fish, vegetable, tofu and sometimes noodle dishes cooked in a large pot, usually right at the table, such as sukiyaki.

Tsukemono are pickled vegetables that can be found with most Japanese meals. Ohitashi are boiled green vegetables served with soy sauce and topped with sesame seeds or katsuobushi (dried bonito fish shavings). Aemono, made up of cooked vegetables and seafood, are served cold and tossed with various sauces.

Utensils and serving dishes are as numerous and varied as the foods themselves. The goal is achieving harmony between the color of the food and the dish in which it is served.

Serving the food, like cooking it, is considered an art. As a rule, round foods are served in square vessels, and square-shaped foods in round vessels.

The following recipes are from Keiko Shiba of Gravier Inc., a Redmond, Wash., food company. Many of the Japanese ingredients they include - such as sake (rice wine), mirin (sweet rice wine) and nori (dried seaweed sheets) - can be found in larger supermarkets.

Several recipes call for dashi, a subtly flavored Japanese soup stock. An instant powder, dashi-no-moto, is available at Asian markets (look under “Oriental Goods” in the Yellow Pages for one near you). Supermarkets may also carry somewhat similar broth mixes.

For the most authentic flavor, here is a recipe for making dashi from scratch. Dried kelp and bonito (fish) flakes are also available at Asian markets.

Basic Soup Stock (Ichiban Dashi)

2-1/2 quarts cold water

3 inches dried kelp (kombu)

1 ounce dried shaved bonito flakes (katsuobushi)

In a 4- to 6-quart pan, heat water and dried kelp to boiling; remove kelp immediately. Stir in bonito flakes and turn off heat; flakes will settle to the bottom. Using a fine strainer, strain into a large bowl.

Stock can be kept at room temperature up to 8 hours, refrigerated for as long as 2 days or frozen (in ice cube trays, for convenience) up to 3 weeks.

Sweet Simmered Squash (Kabocha no Nimono)

1 small acorn squash (about 1-1/2 pounds)

1-1/2 cups basic soup stock (dashi; see recipe above)

1 tablespoon Japanese soy sauce

2 tablespons sugar

1 tablespoon sweet rice wine (mirin)

2 tablespoons rice wine (sake)

Peel and seed squash and cut into 1-inch cubes.

In a medium saucepan, bring soup stock, soy sauce, sugar, mirin and sake to a boil over moderate-high heat. Add squash, reduce heat and cook for 10-15 minutes, until tender and glazed but not mushy.

Yield: 4 servings.

Chicken Omelette over Rice (Oyoko Donburi)

1/2 pound boneless, skinless chicken breast, cut into 1-inch slices

2/3 cup basic soup stock (dashi; see recipe above)

3 tablespoons sweet rice wine (mirin)

3 tablespoons Japanese soy sauce

2 green onions, cut into 1-inch lengths

4 eggs

1 sheet dried laver (nori), crumbled

Cilantro, watercress or trefoil stalks (mitsuba), chopped (optional)

3 cups steamed rice

Beat eggs lightly and mix with green onions.

In a small skillet, bring soup stock, chicken, mirin and soy sauce to boil over high heat. Reduce heat to moderate, cover and cook until chicken is done.

Add egg mixture and simmer until lightly set. Serve in large bowls over steamed rice; garnish with crumbled nori and chopped cilantro, watercress or trefoil stalks, if desired.

Yield: 4 servings.

Beef and Potato Stew (Niku Jaga)

3/4 pound beef loin, sliced or cut into bite-size strips

1 tablespoon vegetable oil (or sesame oil)

4 medium-sized potatoes, peeled and cut into quarters

1 onion, sliced

2 cups basic soup stock (dashi; see recipe above)

2 to 3 tablespoons brown sugar

3 tablespoons Japanese soy sauce

1-1/3 tablespoons rice wine (sake)

2-3 tablespoons sweet rice wine (mirin)

1 small piece (about 1/2 inch) ginger root, grated and squeezed to extract juice

Soak potatoes in water for 5 minutes.

Heat vegetable oil in a saucepan, add beef and saute until light brown. Add potatoes and onion and continue to saute for a few minutes.

Add soup stock, bring to a boil and skim off any scum that forms. Add sugar, soy sauce and sake and reduce heat to low. Simmer until potatoes are done.

Add mirin and ginger juice; cook for 1 more minute.

Yield: 4 servings.

Spinach with Sesame Seed Dressing (Horenso No Goma Ae)

3/4 pound spinach

1/2 cup white sesame seeds

2 teaspoons sugar

2 tablespoons Japanese soy sauce

Bring 1/2 cup water to a light boil in a medium saucepan; add spinach and a pinch of salt and cook just until wilted and bright green (do not overcook).

Drain spinach and refresh under cold running water. Squeeze out excess water with hands as much as possible. Trim roots from stem end and cut remaining leaves into 2-inch lengths.

In another pan, roast sesame seeds over medium-high heat until light brown, being careful not to burn. Crush in a food processor or blender (see note). Add sugar and continue to process until quite pasty. Add soy sauce and process to blend.

Combine spinach and dressing. Chill and serve.

Yield: 4 servings.

Note: When using a blender, you may need to double the quantities of sesame seeds, sugar and soy sauce to have enough volume to engage the blades.

For further recipes and information about various aspects of Japanese culture, computer users can access Japan Infoweb on the World Wide Web at http:/ /electrazine.com/electrazine/ japantour/

MEMO: This sidebar appeared with the story: Classes offered Japanese cooking classes are offered regularly at the Japanese Cultural Center at Spokane’s Mukogawa Fort Wright Institute, 4000 W. Randolph Road. The next three-class session begins Oct. 26 and continues on Nov. 2 and Nov. 9. Another runs Nov. 30, Dec. 7 and Dec. 14. Cost is $40 per session. Class size is limited; for information and registration, call 328-2971.