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A Surprise In The Custard

Rose Levy Beranbaum Los Angeles Times

On first acquaintance, people often ask if my husband likes to cook. And more often than not, my automatic response is: “No, thank goodness!”

The kitchen is my domain and I like it that way. So does he, although every once in a while he grumbles about how the person who cooks gets to control when and, more importantly, what one eats.

In fact, no one had ever cooked in my kitchen until a few months ago when Peter Buhrer, a brilliantly innovative young Swiss chef, came to visit. He suggested I whip up an almond custard to go with a new specialty of his: sweet basil cream.

“Sure,” I agreed. “What’s the recipe?”

“I don’t have a recipe,” he said. “Just make a custard and add almond extract until it tastes right.”

I looked at him as if he were crazy, then decided to wing it, with just one quick glance at my basic flan recipe for reassurance (hoping he hadn’t noticed).

To my complete astonishment, it turned out to be the most perfect, silky, tender custard I have ever tasted. The almond flavor and rich texture went perfectly with the light, gelatin-thickened basil, with its sage-green color and wonderful, mysterious flavor no one ever would have attributed to basil.

Almond Custard With Sweet Basil Cream Sauce

Almond Custard:

4 large egg yolks

1/4 cup sugar

1 cup whipping cream

1/2 cup milk

1/4 teaspoon almond extract

Sweet Basil Cream Sauce (recipe follows)

Lightly spray 4 (5- to 6-ounce), 3-1/4 by 1-1/2-inch ramekins with butter or nonstick vegetable spray. Line baking pan (large enough to hold ramekins and at least 2 inches deep) with parchment paper. Place ramekins on pan.

With wooden spoon, stir together yolks and sugar in medium bowl until blended. Gradually stir in cream and milk, stirring slowly to prevent bubbles. Stir in almond extract. Pour mixture into ramekins and set pan in oven. Pour enough hot tap water around ramekins to come halfway up their sides.

Bake at 325 degrees for 35 minutes. Top should be lightly browned and shimmy like jelly when shaken. Knife inserted into center should come out clean.

Remove ramekins from hot water bath and allow to cool on wire rack. Cover each tightly with plastic wrap, being careful not to touch surface with it, and refrigerate at least 2 hours or up to 2 days. If liquid should form on surface, blot gently with paper towel.

Prepare Sweet Basil Cream Sauce. To serve, run small metal spatula around edge of each ramekin and invert onto individual plates. Spoon sauce around base.

Yield: 4 servings.

Sweet Basil Cream Sauce

1 cup fresh basil, loosely packed (about 25 large leaves or 1/2 ounce)

1/3 cup milk

1/2 teaspoon unflavored powdered gelatin

1/2 tablespoon cold water

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons sugar

1/3 cup whipping cream

Process basil and milk in food processor about 2 minutes or until basil is very finely chopped, stirring down sides once or twice. Allow to steep 30 minutes. Strain into small bowl and discard residue in strainer.

Soften gelatin in cold water 5 minutes. Heat mixture in microwave about 10 seconds or in small pan of boiling water, stirring, until gelatin dissolves and is clear.

Whisk sugar and gelatin into basil mixture. Whisk in cream. Cover tightly and refrigerate at least 2 hours or up to 2 days.

Yield: About 3/4 cup.