Ginger Adds Distinctive Flavor To Predictable Taste Of Coleslaw

Growing up in the South, I remember eating coleslaw on countless occasions. It was an ubiquitous salad often on the table at church potluck suppers, inevitably part of summer picnic fare and was always included as a garnish for shredded pork barbecue sandwiches.

However, the slaws I recall from my youth were fairly bland and predictable in taste. Typically, shredded cabbage and sometimes carrots were tossed in a mayonnaise dressing with sweet and sour accents provided by sugar and vinegar.

I never thought of variations for this classic dish until I began teaching cooking and my students began to offer new possibilities. I loved a recipe for caraway coleslaw in a sour cream dressing, which a student shared with me, and another for fennel-scented coleslaw made with shredded cabbage and fennel in a fennel seed dressing. These days I am always looking for ways to reinvent this American standard.

A while back on a visit to Rhode Island, I sampled a delicious ginger coleslaw at a small Providence restaurant. I made mental notes about this special salad but somehow when I returned home never got around to trying my own version. Nevertheless, last week that dish resurfaced in my mind as I was looking for a garnish to serve with pork.

After several tries I was delighted with my simple adaptation. I tossed thinly sliced cabbage and shredded carrots in a dressing made with rice wine vinegar, dark Asian sesame oil, sugar, a hint of soy sauce and a generous amount of chopped fresh ginger root. Then I served the slaw with a garnish of toasted sesame seeds and chopped chives. The ginger adds an unexpected but distinctive taste to the slaw, and the rich aromatic sesame oil and toasted seeds contribute another dimension of flavor.

This Far East Ginger and Sesame Coleslaw would be ideal to serve with barbecued chicken, grilled steaks or pork spareribs. It would also make a fine accompaniment to ham or turkey sandwiches. And, since it is easy to transport, it would be a fine addition to a picnic spread.

Far East Ginger and Sesame Coleslaw

6 cups quartered and cored cabbage, finely sliced (about 1 pound)

3 cups grated carrots

1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar

4-1/2 tablespoons dark Asian sesame oil

4-1/2 tablespoons sugar

3 tablespoons peeled, minced ginger root

1-1/2 teaspoons soy sauce

Salt

3 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted (see note)

3 tablespoons minced fresh chives or flat-leaf parsley

Combine cabbage and carrots in large nonreactive bowl.

Combine vinegar, sesame oil, sugar, ginger root and soy sauce in medium saucepan. Cook and stir over medium heat until sugar is dissolved and mixture is warm but not hot, 2 to 3 minutes.

Remove from heat. Pour dressing over cabbage mixture and stir well to combine. Taste and season with salt if needed. Cover and let slaw marinate at least 2 hours at cool room temperature or in refrigerator. (Slaw can be made 1 day ahead, covered and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature 30 minutes before serving.)

When ready to serve, mound slaw on serving plate and sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds and chives.

Yield: 6 servings.

Note: To toast sesame seeds, place seeds in small, heavy skillet over medium-high heat and shake pan constantly until seeds are a rich golden brown, about 5 minutes. Remove from pan.